Pictures of project...

[multishowner]

Going to try this again...

Good day all,

I have noticed that the site isn't as active as it once was. I guess everyone is out driving their SHO's instead of typing about them, or everyone is fed up this forum kicks you out before you have a chance to post something (hence the second time doing this).

Here is the beast released from it's cage. Now what do I do with it?










I pulled this to replace the TC seal and possibly upgrade the TC. My SHO was losing the (very expensive) trans fluid on long trips. I think I have found the cause, but I don't think I will try to prove this since it is time consuming and expensive to replace the fluid. I found an area under the ABS system the is crimping the top line from the trans. I SUSPECT (guessing here) that the crimp is causing a back-up of fluid, when the RPM is kept constant for an extended amount of time, and the fluid is finding it's way out the vent. OR the other option is that the slow down of fluid through the cooler is heating up the fluid too much at constant RPM for extended amount of time.






The cage from which it came... The A/C compressor was the most difficult part to overcome. I had to lower the engine without pulling the compress with it.










Here she sits, patiently waiting the good stuff. Gotta keep the neighborhood looking presentable!!






CAN SOMEONE PLEASE TELL ME WHAT THIS IS FOR?? Will a stright pipe work in this location? Do they make them with the flanges?




Well, I hope you all like my project thus far as much as I do, if not just give yous something to read.

Cheers!!

 

[nothingtoseehere]

Is it really necessary to criticize the forum? No one gets kicked out or deleted without due cause.

In answer to your question...yes, there is a bypass pipe to replace that.

Good luck with the rebuild.

 

[MotorMouth]

Is it just me or is the Y-pipe more like an L-pipe? That front bank comes in almost at a 90 degree angle.

On a side note. I was at a friends house a week or so ago and he had the drive train out of his 98 GL SLO for a tranny rebuild and he had the best idea I had ever seen. He had picked up a set of heavy duty casters and welded a bolt onto them. When he lowered down the sub frame he put the bolt in where the sub frame bolt would go and bam!, instant mobile engine stand. Put a nut on the top and they dont come off. It was pretty ingenious. You could just roll the cradle, engine, tranny and all around the garage.

Just thought of this when I looked at the pics above.

 

[multishowner]

Is it really necessary to criticize the forum? No one gets kicked out or deleted without due cause.

In answer to your question...yes, there is a bypass pipe to replace that.

Good luck with the rebuild.

Oh, it was not criticism... I was just fustrated after typing for about 15 minutes, posting pics and the like, to have it all go away after hitting the "review post" button. I had to re-sign in to reply to these... I don't know how long it takes to sign me out, but it was less time than it took to write up the thread... I wrote it up the second time, opened a new window, signed in, posted new thread, copied and pasted the whole thing in the new window, and hit submit...

Don't get me wrong, I learned a lot from this forum!! If it wasn't for the fact the SHO is front wheel drive and only comes in an auto trans, I would want to keep it. I have moved over to the BMW power and options... The SHO is a great beast, but just not my cup of tea!

That is great news about the by-pass pipe!! I will look into that prior to getting this back in the car!!

Thanks so much for the info!!

Cheers!

 

[nothingtoseehere]

When you sign in, make sure you check the "remember me" box shown in that area. Shouldn't boot you that quick. I thought you meant something else. If it continues happening, you may want to let Beth know.

I am not sure who is carrying the bypass pipe now...I know it was a SHOShop item a long time ago...not sure if SHOBros is now carrying it. I got mine when the exhaust got swapped out for another members a couple years ago.

 

[SHOZ123]

The front pipe is actually a nice smooth radius. The rear one is crimped to fit and is the restriction if any.

I bought a new flex off of eBay. Then cut the flanges off of the old one to weld onto the new on. Tuesday when it got installed the added some SS pipe to fill in where the third cat is.

Best thing you can do with the tranny lines is take them off. Replace the quick disconnect fittings with 1/4" mNPT x 3/8" hose barbs. Then use 3/8" tranny cooler hose.

 

[multishowner]

Is it just me or is the Y-pipe more like an L-pipe? That front bank comes in almost at a 90 degree angle.

On a side note. I was at a friends house a week or so ago and he had the drive train out of his 98 GL SLO for a tranny rebuild and he had the best idea I had ever seen. He had picked up a set of heavy duty casters and welded a bolt onto them. When he lowered down the sub frame he put the bolt in where the sub frame bolt would go and bam!, instant mobile engine stand. Put a nut on the top and they dont come off. It was pretty ingenious. You could just roll the cradle, engine, tranny and all around the garage.

Just thought of this when I looked at the pics above.

Ya know, I had salvaged the base of a roll-around rack at my work. They scrapped the whole thing, but I pulled the base with these big solid wheels out of the pile and tossed it to the side. On my way out the door with my new found treasure, one of the contractors I play golf with saw it and told me that he had wanted that base, but was on vacation when the scrapping took place. He asked if he could get it back to use for another work project. I didn't mind since I didn't pay anything for it. I could have used them yesterday when I, along with my son and one of his friends, pulled this assembly out from under my car. The wheels would have added about three inches to the distance I had to raise the front of the car, but I think it would have been worth it. I am thinking I will be getting some for the re-assembly!

Great idea and thanks for sharing it with us!!

Cheers!

 

[multishowner]

When you sign in, make sure you check the "remember me" box shown in that area. Shouldn't boot you that quick. I thought you meant something else. If it continues happening, you may want to let Beth know.

I am not sure who is carrying the bypass pipe now...I know it was a SHOShop item a long time ago...not sure if SHOBros is now carrying it. I got mine when the exhaust got swapped out for another members a couple years ago.

Very good... I checked the box when I signed in again... Maybe that will keep me signed in... Thanks!

I will check SHOShop and even pull up SHOBros to see if they have it... I think I broke mine trying to get the bolt off, which I never did get off.

Thanks much for the info!

Cheers!

 

[multishowner]

The front pipe is actually a nice smooth radius. The rear one is crimped to fit and is the restriction if any.

I bought a new flex off of eBay. Then cut the flanges off of the old one to weld onto the new on. Tuesday when it got installed the added some SS pipe to fill in where the third cat is.

Best thing you can do with the tranny lines is take them off. Replace the quick disconnect fittings with 1/4" mNPT x 3/8" hose barbs. Then use 3/8" tranny cooler hose.

I plan on putting a HUGE additional cooler to compensate for the heat these trans create. Any thoughts on where to put it in the system? I thought of putting it last in line back to the trans so fluid will be at it's coolest point prior to additional cooler, thus getting the temp down as much as possible. I have read on another thread that the cooler should be put just prior to the radiator since that is where the normal operating temp is... Or something like that... I'll pick up the 1/4" X 3/8" fitting today. What do you all think about a second filter as well??

Thanks much for the trans info!

Cheers!

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Ok, I'll bite... Why in the world would you drop the whole drivetrain just to pull the tranny? Doubled the work right there. And what's with the A/C compressor? Takes about 5 minutes to purge the system and another 2 or 3 mins to disconnect the upper and lower manifold hoses to pull it all as one. Less than $30 in R134A to refill later and a lot of pain and suffering saved in between. There was also no reason to take the struts and spindles out of the car, but I'll stop picking on you now.

Before putting it all back together and in, make sure to replace your missing exhaust manifold shields.

Also, I'm hoping you thought to remove the torque converter nuts and the lower oil pan to bellhousing bolts before hand.

 

[bigred56k]

Ok, I'll bite... Why in the world would you drop the whole drivetrain just to pull the tranny? Doubled the work right there. And what's with the A/C compressor? Takes about 5 minutes to purge the system and another 2 or 3 mins to disconnect the upper and lower manifold hoses to pull it all as one. Less than $30 in R134A to refill later and a lot of pain and suffering saved in between. There was also no reason to take the struts and spindles out of the car, but I'll stop picking on you now.

Before putting it all back together and in, make sure to replace your missing exhaust manifold shields.

Also, I'm hoping you thought to remove the torque converter nuts and the lower oil pan to bellhousing bolts before hand.

HMMM! Owned!

 

[multishowner]

Ok, I'll bite... Why in the world would you drop the whole drivetrain just to pull the tranny? Doubled the work right there. And what's with the A/C compressor? Takes about 5 minutes to purge the system and another 2 or 3 mins to disconnect the upper and lower manifold hoses to pull it all as one. Less than $30 in R134A to refill later and a lot of pain and suffering saved in between. There was also no reason to take the struts and spindles out of the car, but I'll stop picking on you now.

Before putting it all back together and in, make sure to replace your missing exhaust manifold shields.

Also, I'm hoping you thought to remove the torque converter nuts and the lower oil pan to bellhousing bolts before hand.

Well, there are a few reasons... The biggest is to make the job a bit easier. See, I pulled the motor with the trans still in place, and then put it back after a ground up rebuild. I had sent the cams out to be welded while the motor was apart, but as my luck would have it, they didn't get done... I was actually fortunate to even get them back in one piece. The Graniteville, Ga train wreck was right by the place that was going to do the welding. They weren't letting anyone in the area, and were taking everything that was affected by the spill. My four cams were spared, and returned. On a time crunch, I put everything back together as it was - bone stock.

This time, I am getting them welded. Since I had such a difficult time coming out the top, I figured I would try the bottom. I agree, I could have left the suspension, mainly because I will be pulling the lower control arm from the subframe today. Made mental note for next time (hoping to never need a next time). I will be pulling the motor/trans away from the subframe to do the work. Easier to move around and get at things.

I also pulled it like I did was so I could take some good photos of what I was doing. Maybe share some with those that would like them.

I usually find it easier to just keep the A/C system intact. I don't have the proper A/C stuff to evacuate the system, and would rather not break a perfect system as it is now.

I don't think I had the exhaust manifold shields on the car when I got it. I have read the problems with the rear wire loom, and will be wrapping it in some thermal tape. I will also see if Ford still carries the shields.

Dropping the motor/trans out the bottom may not be the preferred method, but I think it will be a little easier getting to those hard to reach bolts that caused me such a problem on the last install I did.

Thanks much!

Cheers!

 

[SHOZ123]

Get a Gen 2 SHO ATX cooler and mount it to the steel bumper. Then you need 18" of 3/8" steel reinforced hydraulic hose to connect the passenger ends of the new cooler to the OEM tube cooler. By pass the radiator cooler you won't need it.

You could try a magniifine in line filter. They are quick and easy.

 

[multishowner]

Get a Gen 2 SHO ATX cooler and mount it to the steel bumper. Then you need 18" of 3/8" steel reinforced hydraulic hose to connect the passenger ends of the new cooler to the OEM tube cooler. By pass the radiator cooler you won't need it.

You could try a magniifine in line filter. They are quick and easy.

I had a Gen 2, but mine was an MTX. That was a solid little car. It was lowered with Koni's (I think) and subframe spacers. It also had 1/8" rectangular tubes welded in. I could do what ever the tires could handle going around any corner with virtually NO body roll... If the northern salt didn't get to the body, I would still have it!

I will look into the cooler!! Thanks much!! Do I need to cut the tubes and flare the ends of the factory piping? How about just going with the 3/8" hose on the fittings described above?

Cheers!

 

[multishowner]

You all will never believe what I just found as the cause of my trans fluid leak!!! I by-passed the TCC and left the system open to full torque from the converter. Well, I suspected that I had heated up the system and melted the inner TC seal. It turns out the system had so much pressure, SUSPECT from the crimped hose (Guessing here) that it totally blew the TC seal out of it's seat in the trans. It is ironic the seal didn't fail completely instead, it looks undamaged (short of being out of it's seat).

Ya know, I got so into trying to find out what happened, I didn't take too many pics... I'll go catch up a bit on that now...

Cheers!

 

[SHOZ123]

Yes use 3/8" tranny hose in place of the factory steel and rubber lines. But the one on the passenger side that connects the two coolers together should be reinforced hose. This is because it needs to make a tight 180* bend and the steel reinforced hose will not kink.

 

[ArkanSHO]

You know, I tried once just pulling the trans only on my car. Took me over 14 hours in my driveway and lost a lot more skin then I have grown back yet. Made me think about that I pulled the whole assembly outside in my driveway with only hand tools just like he did in less then 5 hours (then less then 4 the last time) and lost nearly no skin. I also left the AC attached. Now, if I had a concrete floor and pneumatic tools (I actually have them but not the right sockets) but everytime I have tried to "pop" the ball joints or tie rods I ruin the boots. Sorry, just an old hillbilly....

 

[multishowner]

You know, I tried once just pulling the trans only on my car. Took me over 14 hours in my driveway and lost a lot more skin then I have grown back yet. Made me think about that I pulled the whole assembly outside in my driveway with only hand tools just like he did in less then 5 hours (then less then 4 the last time) and lost nearly no skin. I also left the AC attached. Now, if I had a concrete floor and pneumatic tools (I actually have them but not the right sockets) but everytime I have tried to "pop" the ball joints or tie rods I ruin the boots. Sorry, just an old hillbilly....

I can't say much about trying to do this on black-top, or dirt, but concrete does make things easier. The cracks in my driveway do tend to keep the wheels on the jack from rolling, which could be an issue at times.

A great trick an old boss told me once about getting the ball joints and tie rods to "pop"... First, pull the pin and loosen the bolt about for or five turns from full tight (just so you can see some space between the bolt and the spindle. Next, is to put some release pressure on the (tie rod, in this case) using a long, sturdy pipe. The one I have is 8 feet long. I put one end over a frame part in behind the tie rod, and have it pulling up on the end of the tie rod. I'll put a bit of pressure on the bar, and put a jack stand under it, or just have someone hold it for a few seconds for me. Take a solid hammer of normal size (no 5 pound jobbers here), and hit the spindle (NOT the tie rod) on the outter most part. The tie rod WILL pop, which is why the nut is kept on the tie rod, to keep things from flying.

The ball joint is a little more complex. There is a tool that puts pressure on both part without messing with the boot, but I just try to work around the ball joint as a solid peice. I will usually only seperate it if it needs a new boot.

Cheers!!

 

[multishowner]

OK, here is one for yous guys & gals...

HOW DO I GET THIS OFF?



Of course, it was the last one. I tried one of those Craftsman bolt/nut remover jobbers with no luck. I need a #9.5 which they don't have... the #9 is just too small to bite, and the #10 swallows the nut all the way to the ******.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

OK, here is one for yous guys & gals...

HOW DO I GET THIS OFF?

Of course, it was the last one. I tried one of those Craftsman bolt/nut remover jobbers with no luck. I need a #9.5 which they don't have... the #9 is just too small to bite, and the #10 swallows the nut all the way to the ******.

Didn't take them off beforehand, eh?

Well, presuming you need to return the converter for a core, you're best bet now is to pry back the converter from the flexplate until you can get the flexplate bolts out and separate the whole thing from the motor (yes, you're gonna bend the flexplate). Then use a whiz wheel or nutbuster to break off the nut and save the converter stud. Of course you'll need another flexplate when you're done. We've got a bunch for short $$$.

Of course if you don't need to save the converter for a core, just go at the stud with the sawzall.