96blackSHO
New Member
i was just wondering how hard it was to do a passanger side CV shaft
if anyone has some tips i would love to hear them
if anyone has some tips i would love to hear them
Passanger side CV
- Thread starter 96blackSHO
- Start date
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Not really hard. It's just bolted and pressed into the hub. My hardest time doing anything revolves around getting the stupid strut out of the knuckle and back in again. Also, it's connected to the intermediate shaft so you don't have to argue with the transmission.
Good time to do the brakes too.
Good time to do the brakes too.
96blackSHO
New Member
ya i just got the car and im thinking about doing the brakes too
Roadkilled75
New Member
Glad to hear it's not much trouble. Mine needs one before I can get it inspected and on the road for the first time 
Actually mine JUST ripped [clean grease everywhere] so I'm tempted to go the easyboot route until I hear clicking...
Actually mine JUST ripped [clean grease everywhere] so I'm tempted to go the easyboot route until I hear clicking...
Last edited:
K-Dawg
SHO Member
I've found that its easiest to disconnect the ball joint (rather than the strut pinch bolt).
Shoaz
Studly dood
x2
Use a cheater bar to pop the lower control arm out of the knuckle and you're good to go.
Before that, though, remove the hub nut and soak the shaft in WD-40 or PB Blaster from both sides. Sometimes the splines like to stick to the hub, and it is important to resist the urge to hammer on the end of the shaft to pop it out (don't ask me how I know that). And sometimes you're lucky and it just slides out.
Other than that, it's a pretty easy job.
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
Remove caliper/rotor. Undo nut on the end of the CV axle (it will take forever if you don't have an air gun). Remove Tie rod end (make sure you use a new cotter pin), LCA (use a new bolt/nut), and Strut assembly from knuckle. Pull knuckle off the CV axle. Yank CV axle out of tranny. If you're going to replace it, who cares if you break it? Yank!
Insert new CV axle. It won't want to go in all the way. You have to hammer it in, but don't go crazy. once axle is in (big inside part will be flush with tranny), reinstall LCA, strut assembly, tie rod end, rotors, caliper, then wheel. Voila!
Much easier said than done. Don't try to remove the ABS sensor; you WILL destroy it in the attempt. It plugs into the harness in the engine compartment just inside the strut tower. Unplug it there and snake the whole harness out.
Insert new CV axle. It won't want to go in all the way. You have to hammer it in, but don't go crazy. once axle is in (big inside part will be flush with tranny), reinstall LCA, strut assembly, tie rod end, rotors, caliper, then wheel. Voila!
Much easier said than done. Don't try to remove the ABS sensor; you WILL destroy it in the attempt. It plugs into the harness in the engine compartment just inside the strut tower. Unplug it there and snake the whole harness out.
Eric VerValin
PiMPSKiLLET
x3 .. only thing I can add, And I wonder who else does this.. if your bar is long enough, you can actually sit on it and use both hands to pull the strut out. I use a peice of 1" rigid conduit thats 5' long..
Shoaz
Studly dood
x3 .. only thing I can add, And I wonder who else does this.. if your bar is long enough, you can actually sit on it and use both hands to pull the strut out. I use a peice of 1" rigid conduit thats 5' long..
Yes, undo the hub nut, undo the pinch bolt for the LAC/balljoint, separate the tie rod from the knuckle, pop the LCA out of the knuckle, separate the CV from the knuckle, pop it out of intermediate shaft. Replace, put it all back together. I find it much easier to leave the brakes alone and leave the knuckle on the strut. There's enough clearance that the strut/knuckle can be separated from the CV while still together.
Naturally, rust, seizing, etc., will complicate the process.
sdpatt
Sr. SHO Engr.
With failures of the ball joint boot being a repeated problem, I slide the knuckle off the strut when doing the CV halfshaft job. I found it very simple to push the knuckle off by using a 1.5-ton bottle jack, with the base resting on the knuckle's collar around the strut and the stem under the lower sprint seat on the strut. The jack has so much leverage that you may not need the handle extension in the pump's lever.
It is best to remove the inner joint by popping it free from the coupling just outboard of the carrier bearing. Either a large, flat bladed screwdriver, pry bar or pointed end of a lug wrench can do that job without damaging anything.
To install the replacement shaft, start the threaded shaft into the coupling and use a strong, quick motion to seat the C-clip. The momentum of the shaft can be put to good use.
It is best to remove the inner joint by popping it free from the coupling just outboard of the carrier bearing. Either a large, flat bladed screwdriver, pry bar or pointed end of a lug wrench can do that job without damaging anything.
To install the replacement shaft, start the threaded shaft into the coupling and use a strong, quick motion to seat the C-clip. The momentum of the shaft can be put to good use.
Excellent suggestion for separating the knuckle from the strut. I used a similar approach using my spring compressor hooked under the lower seat, but your way is easier and cleaner. I will try it next time. I don't recall the passenger side shaft having a C-clip to retain the shaft in the transmission; it is retained by the carrier bearing. It slides into the coupling with little effort. The driver's side does have a C-clip, and can be a pita to seat. Or are you referring to something else?
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