Partial 60K Upper; Now some misfiring; Awful mileage

[maddmaxx]

I have 1993 3.2ATX (we bought new); now has 150K. Shop did new timing belt around 60K-plus, but never had official upper 60K done. We had significant oil drip onto right exhaust that was smelling up interior, so I had to replace the valve cover gaskets; also had oil in all spark plug wells. I replaced with new FelPro valve cover set. I also did: (1) cam sensor seal replacement; (2) new plug wires; (3) Bosch single-plat plugs; (4) new K&N air filter. (I could not get my old K&N to uniformly color with the red aerosol oil, so K&N sent me a new one.)

I buttoned it up yesterday. When I fired it up, it rough idled at around 500-600rpm but did not die. (It idled fine before my work, main problem was oil smell.) When I went to pick up the kids at school (8-10 miles) I could almost use the gas gauge as a speedometer it was going down so fast. But, yesterday afternoon, we drove 172 miles to Moline, IL from Des Moines, IA at 80-85mph and got about 21.5mpg. (I took my 14-yr-old to see Eric Clapton with Robert Cray as the warm-up.) Going and coming it was misfiring around 2600-2700rpm between 75-80mph. I could feel the bucking. Also frequent Check Engine light when this was happening.

This morning, still rough idle around 500-600rpm ... almost like it is loping. Again, taking the kids to school this morning, iit seemed to be drinking gas like coffee. The only thing dropping faster than the gas gauge was my jaw (and the tears).

I see the posts blame plugs and wires for misfirings. Some folks seem to like the Motorcrafts with others liking the Rapidfires ... all seem to like multi-platinums. I used the generic Advance Auto plug wire set (approx. $76.00). I see some posters like the ECT sensor for poor mileage with the MAF and thermostat as possible culprits. What do you folks think?

What did I do wrong? It had poor mileage before, I guestimate about 15-17 around town. But, it idled smoothly, and it never had such movement on the gas gauge. What can I do to get to acceptable mileage, and get a smooth idle back?

 

[Bruce M]

Hi
In know this will sound stupid but check the fireing order again and then look for vacuum leaks. Make sure all vacuum lines are attached. Make sure that the plug wires are seated.

 

[qiksho]

These cars are VERY particular about the plugs and wires that you put on them. I have purchased 2 SHO's now with new plugs that were not double platinum's - needless to say I had to put new plugs in them myself after 3-4k miles.

Many have had problems with the K&N Air filters - the oil you use to **** the filter can/will coat the MAF sensor.

You said the car gave you a check engine light - pull the codes. This can be done with a paper clip used as a jumper under the hood. Reply back with the codes so we can help you diagnose the problem better...

 

[projectSHO89]

I'd highly recommend dumping the Bosch plugs and using the correct Motorcrafts...

 

[maddmaxx]

I have the green Ford 1993 Taurus/Sable manual which has the 3.0L and 3.2L procedures in it. I have triple checked the firing order. The vacuum lines seem to be intact. I located the http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3sparkplugs.html
document, and although it does not mention Rapidfires, does suggest NGK and Denso substitute plugs. I am going to try to locate either of those today. The Denso plugs are recommended applications for 2000-2004 Acuras and Hondas, so if all else fails, I will go to Acura/Honda dealer and pay MSRP for shotimes-recommended Denso plugs. If that does not solve problem, will upgrade the wire set.
Regarding the MAF sensor vs. K&N filter problem. I notice that some folks have upgraded to 80 MAF (from Continentals??) How can I tell if my MAF has been coated by the K&N oil?
I don't know how to pull the codes. Do I need a special interface/handheld for this?

 

[luigisho]

There are publications out there with an incorrect firing order printed in them.

This is correct
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~rbruce/sparkplug.htm

 

[maddmaxx]

That is the plug wiring diagram that I used.

Holy Begeezus!! Acura wanted $25@ for the Denso plugs for a total damage of $150.00!!!

Where in the engine compartment, and how, do I get the codes to dump?

 

[luigisho]

http://www.shophoenixproject.com/eec/eec.htm

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Many have reported good luck with...

Denso PK16R11 (SKU 186229)

$7.49 at AutoZone

 

[maddmaxx]

I found the suggested NGK plugs locally for $12.00 @. If I can't get the Densos at AutoZone, then I will go for the NGK's.

I read in the Ford 1993 Sable/Taurus manual that interference with the EGR valve or the PCV function will cause loping. I had a lot of oil residue in the PCV orifice in the throttle body, and ran a Q-tip into the orifice. It is possible that the orifice is still occluded.

 

[maddmaxx]

My Overdrive button has not worked for some time now (the light does not com on). Will I be able to get the KOER codes, if it does not work?

 

[92inPA]

www.rockauto.com has the correct Motorcraft plugs for $4.11. And they can overnight them to you.


Thanks Luigisho for the referral!

 

[luigisho]

Thanks Luigisho for the referral!

Thanks for putting info on your site!

 

[thecrew2999]

recheck the firing.. trust me i had it wrong and i couldnt figure out what the problem was at first.. was my own fault i shoulda paid more attention then just thinking it went in numeric order.

cats are a possiblity being clogged has some of the same problems. also to me personaly sounds like a computer related problem and you should check all grounds and the like.

 

[maddmaxx]

Densos Bought Locally; I'm Impatient; 1/2 Cost of Acura Dealer

I did not want to wait for any plugs. And, I was able to locate the right Denso Iridiums here in town ... same plug as at the Acura dealer at 1/2 the price ($12.99 at AutoZone.) Internet cross references told me that the plug is for 2000-2004 Acura RL.) I will put those in w/in next several hours.

The only ground that I found was the one that attached to the intake plenum support stud near the passenger firewall. I did not replace the gaskets on the secondary butterfly frames, so it is possible that there might be a vacuum leak there. The Ford book said that the metal intake gaskets are re-usable ... so, that is what I did. The had flaked some of the black paint, so there could be a vacuum seepage there as well.

The chrome allen bolts holding on the valve cover gaskets (on either side of the spark plug wells) are fully seated, which tells me that the rubber gaskets under the chrome valve cover bolts must have shrunk in thickness, thereby not permitting me to put as much pressure on the perimeter gasket of the valve cover that I would be able to if the bolts could be tightened more. (One poster remarked that the valve cover gasket set does not include these gaskets. Where can I get some new ones? If I can't get new ones, I might consider building up these with rubber shims (hose gaskets held in place with RTK).)

I will run the codes as soon as I get the new plugs in. (The flashing KOEO/KOER codes remind me of the beep (POST) codes that get from your motherboard when are trying to analyze problems in a desktop PC.)

You are all a great crew, and I appreciate the support/input. I am loving my SHO more all the time. Feeling like I am getting closer to the way it used to ride/perform.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Glad you found the Denso iridiums - I didn't post them, as it seemed you were concerned with cost and the Denso premiums have received good reviews.

Btw, what is the "PK" number on the end of the box?

 

[maddmaxx]

Denso Plugs - IK16 (5303)

They show IK16 on the end with 5303 underneath. (You referenced the 5303 in your posting/URL.) Cost was a problem ... within reason. I just did not want to take one up the tailpipe from the local Acura dealer at $25 per plug when some guys were paying $24 for an entire set of six!!! But $13 per plug fror an excellent Japanese plug (iridium ==> 4000 deg F heat range) designed by Japanese engineers, for a Japanese powerplant, I can live with that. (Plus, Rock Auto had the plugs at $15.00 each.)

I can't blame some previous owner for neglecting the 60K/100K upper maintenance. I owned her then, and so, it was my oversight/mistake/neglect, not somebody else's. I have abused my poor beautiful baby, and now it is time for me to make it up to her. :wave:

 

[johndallara]

running roughly after 60K

Here is another thought.

The upper intake is very particular about its mounting, and can sometimes have a small vacuum leak due to old gasket and less-than-perfect seating.

I would suggest that you try loosening the surge tank-to-runner connections and temporarily remove the crossover tube (thing with the DIS module on it. Then, with the upper intake disconnected from the 4 mounting brackets, make sure it is seated correctly. Ideally you should have a new upper intake to lower intake gasket in place.

After the appropriate amt of wiggling and seating, retighten the upper intake 12mm bolts and reconnect the crossover tube. If she fires well and runs more smoothly, this was your problem. Last, reconnect the intake brackets.

Have had a similar problem before with seating the intake (could you guess). Best of luck.

 

[DemonNeno]

Im running NGK Iridiums w/ Taylor wires. Absolutely love them! Wires were sub $100 and plugs ended up just a bit under $50 for the set.

 

[maddmaxx]

Pulled Bosch Plugs; Installed Denso Iridiums

I pulled the Bosh plugs. Advance Auto had a deep socket for the plugs for $0.99. With two extensions, and after removing only the vacuum canister off the right (firewall) side of the intake plenum, I was able to swap, and even torque them all in under 1/2 hour. But, the Bosch's, with only about 400 miles on them were very sooty. Is there anything besides the O2 sensors that controls fuel richness?? Any input would be appreciated.