P/S Pump Leak

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LookAtThatSHO

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Can anyone please provide me with some pointers on a good/temporary fix for a power steering pump leak? I had the front tires off of my 95 the other day to install winter tires and noticed there was quite a bit of spill coming from the pump. Any tips would be great

:thankyou:
-Mike
 

gurucomputers

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Can anyone please provide me with some pointers on a good/temporary fix for a power steering pump leak? I had the front tires off of my 95 the other day to install winter tires and noticed there was quite a bit of spill coming from the pump. Any tips would be great

:thankyou:
-Mike

Are you sure it is the PS Pump and not the rear cam seal. The rear cam seal can leak and make it look as if the PS is leaking. Take a closer look and get a sample of what is leaking. The smell should give away if it is oil or PS fluid..
 

shoclown

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at ford we used to kit alot of repairs for ps after suspension work had been done basically becouse the lines were hard or they were a little loose and when anything was moved it would pivot the line on the pump or resivior creating a leak.. check the clamps make sure they are tight and if so how is the loine is it hard.. if so it might not seal and needs to be replaced.
 

LookAtThatSHO

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Thanks for the prompt responses...

Are you sure it is the PS Pump and not the rear cam seal. The rear cam seal can leak and make it look as if the PS is leaking. Take a closer look and get a sample of what is leaking. The smell should give away if it is oil or PS fluid..

It is definitely P/S fluid.

at ford we used to kit alot of repairs for ps after suspension work had been done basically becouse the lines were hard or they were a little loose and when anything was moved it would pivot the line on the pump or resivior creating a leak.. check the clamps make sure they are tight and if so how is the loine is it hard.. if so it might not seal and needs to be replaced.

This SHO has 177,*** miles and this would seem like a possible scenario. I will definitely examine the hardness of the line and make sure the clamps are nice and tight this evening.

Thanks!
 

itwonder

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Having just gone through this on my SHO, the only fix I know of is to replace the pump. I got a rebuilt Cardone from Rockauto. You should also replace the pressure hose at the same time. Fear not, the job is not bad on the MTX, and my way did not require removing the motor mount like the FSM says to do.


Power Steering Pump Replacement Procedure - For my Gen 2 MTX, may or may not work for other models

1. Set front of car up on 6 ton jackstands under frame rails, same as in clutch installation procedure.
2. Remove both front tires.
3. Remove battery, PS reservoir & bracket, roll dampener, pump pulley nut, accessory belts, upper timing cover, and pump pulley.
4. Remove cam position sensor and check for oil in bottom of drive housing. (Yes, check even if you are convinced your leak is PS. A leaking seal here is easy to fix now with everything opened up).
5. Position container to catch spillage and remove suction hose from pump.
6. Put 18 mm or 11/16 (tight fit) crows foot on pressure line fitting. Run long socket extension(s) toward front of engine until in the clear where a breaker bar can be used. Break fitting loose and remove. *** Although I did not need to do this, my alternative plan was to use a mini tubing cutter to cut the steel line and remove the fitting later.
7. Remove front pump mounting bolts (3) with 12mm socket.
8. Under car, place flex socket or regular 12mm socket with wobble extension on pump rear mounting bolt. Add extensions to reach all the way across the back of the engine above the exhaust manifold nearly to the transmission where there is clear space to get a breaker bar on it, or an air ratchet. Remove the rear bolt. Note it is longer than the front bolts.
9. Back up top, wiggle pump out of its mounting bracket and there is plenty of room to get it out from the top.
10. Use 18mm combo or line wrench to loosen lower pressure hose fitting on the rack by reaching in through the driver side wheel well.
11. Swap pressure switch to new hose, tighten to 5-10 ft-lb. using 9/16 crows foot. Let hose hang vertically for at least an hour before installing.
12. Reverse steps to install new pump and hose. Torque values are:
Pump bolts: 15-24 ft-lb.
Pressure hose fittings: 10-15 ft-lb (Pressure hose fittings can both be torqued with clever use of crows foot wrenches.)

Notes:
1. Be sure new pressure hose has the teflon O-rings on the fittings; they come with the hose.
2. Place plenty of rags under the PS reservoir to catch any spillage. Any fluid that runs down the inner fender will find its way into the frame, then run down and drip out near the right rear subframe bushing. That might fool you into thinking something is leaking
 
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fitefanSHO

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Having just gone through this on my SHO, the only fix I know of is to replace the pump. I got a rebuilt Cardone from Rockauto. You should also replace the pressure hose at the same time. Fear not, the job is not bad on the MTX, and my way did not require removing the motor mount like the FSM says to do.


Power Steering Pump Replacement Procedure

1. Set front of car up on 6 ton jackstands under frame rails, same as in clutch installation procedure.
2. Remove both front tires.
3. Remove battery, PS reservoir & bracket, roll dampener, pump pulley nut, accessory belts, upper timing cover, and pump pulley.
4. Remove cam position sensor and check for oil in bottom of drive housing. (Yes, check even if you are convinced your leak is PS. A leaking seal here is easy to fix now with everything opened up).
5. Position container to catch spillage and remove suction hose from pump.
6. Put 18 mm or 11/16 (tight fit) crows foot on pressure line fitting. Run long socket extension(s) toward front of engine until in the clear where a breaker bar can be used. Break fitting loose and remove. *** Although I did not need to do this, my alternative plan was to use a mini tubing cutter to cut the steel line and remove the fitting later.
7. Remove front pump mounting bolts (3) with 12mm socket.
8. Under car, place flex socket or regular 12mm socket with wobble extension on pump rear mounting bolt. Add extensions to reach all the way across the back of the engine above the exhaust manifold nearly to the transmission where there is clear space to get a breaker bar on it, or an air ratchet. Remove the rear bolt. Note it is longer than the front bolts.
9. Back up top, wiggle pump out of its mounting bracket and there is plenty of room to get it out from the top.
10. Use 18mm combo or line wrench to loosen lower pressure hose fitting on the rack by reaching in through the driver side wheel well.
11. Swap pressure switch to new hose, tighten to 5-10 ft-lb. using 9/16 crows foot. Let hose hang vertically for at least an hour before installing.
12. Reverse steps to install new pump and hose. Torque values are:
Pump bolts: 15-24 ft-lb.
Pressure hose fittings: 10-15 ft-lb (Pressure hose fittings can both be torqued with clever use of crows foot wrenches.)

Notes:
1. Be sure new pressure hose has the teflon O-rings on the fittings; they come with the hose.
2. Place plenty of rags under the PS reservoir to catch any spillage. Any fluid that runs down the inner fender will find its way into the frame, then run down and drip out near the right rear subframe bushing. That might fool you into thinking something is leaking


I have a 1993 ATX 3.2, is this the same procedure for replacing the PS Pump
in my SHO?
 

itwonder

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I have a 1993 ATX 3.2, is this the same procedure for replacing the PS Pump
in my SHO?

I wish I had a better answer, but I have no experience with the ATX so I cannot say for sure. I would expect it to be very similar, except that I don't know if my method for reaching the rear mounting bolt will work with the ATX. Also, I don't know if the pressure hose fitting on the rack can be reached the same way. I have read that in teh ATX the engine is located 2" forward of where it is in the MTX. That should give more room to work.
 

LookAtThatSHO

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Bob,
Thanks for taking the time to write such a nice write-up! :thumb:
It's very much appreciated and will definitely come in handy when the time comes to replace.
 

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