Overheating at idle

[Thormx]

Hey guys my 16 Sho recently started overheating when it sits at idle, mostly happens in drive throughs to the point I turn my car off while I’m waiting in line.

My heater also only blows hot air while driving and will blow cold air while sitting.

Water pump going bad is what I’ve seen looking some of this up, is that likely? I’m hoping something smaller but the thermostat isn’t very old I replaced it when doing my Ortiz tune about 20k miles ago.

I’m currently at 106k miles total so seems like it’s time for the water pump to go.
Any suggestions would be great

 

[Texas Marauder]

Check your coolant level. Are the fans working?

 

[Thormx]

Check your coolant level. Are the fans working?

Both fans seem to be working fine, it’s a tiny bit low on coolant I was planning on flushing and refilling this weekend to see if that helps

 

[kryptto]

Thermostat working properly, maybe sticking? Run a flush first, dump the contents and look closely at color and for bits.

 

[Thormx]

My dealership is out of stock on coolant so haven’t had a chance to flush yet.
Also going to probably get a new Reische 170 thermostat as well.

I got a quote for new waterpump and timing setup and with how cheap it is I’ll just most likely do it all anyway.

Besides waterpump, timing chain, guides, tensioners and phasers is there anything else I should have done with it?

 

[kryptto]

My dealership is out of stock on coolant so haven’t had a chance to flush yet.
Also going to probably get a new Reische 170 thermostat as well.

I got a quote for new waterpump and timing setup and with how cheap it is I’ll just most likely do it all anyway.

Besides waterpump, timing chain, guides, tensioners and phasers is there anything else I should have done with it?

Melling oil pump, there are two, check price the high performance MD stock replacement.

I am sure someone will say it's not worth it get some break-in fluid like melling.

I used 2016, get your VIN lookup again. $164, to me its worth it.

 

[Ta2dResqr]

My dealership is out of stock on coolant so haven’t had a chance to flush yet.
Also going to probably get a new Reische 170 thermostat as well.

I got a quote for new waterpump and timing setup and with how cheap it is I’ll just most likely do it all anyway.

Besides waterpump, timing chain, guides, tensioners and phasers is there anything else I should have done with it?

Sprockets and cam bolts. Cam bolts are torque to yield (one time use). Spark plug and VCT solenoid (phaser) seals.

 

[Thormx]

Awesome thank you guys.

 

[kryptto]

Awesome thank you guys.

Good luck - get that passenger tire off - remove the wheel well, look at picking up replacement plastic pins for any that break - just was thinking it through. Cheap off Amazon, don't want to break a few and not have them to put back in.

 

[Texas Marauder]

I got a quote for new waterpump and timing setup and with how cheap it is I’ll just most likely do it all anyway.

First time I've heard that.

 

[SHOdded]

most times it will be the engine fans when it overheats at idle because there is insufficient airflow. if both fans are spinning, or only driver side fan is spinning, you need a new fan assembly. don't automatically assume timing/water pump issue unless you see mixing or coolant leaks with the splash shield removed.

 

[shoblock]

Just went through this same scenario with my '15 with 99k miles. It had a 160 thermostat that locked closed. I jacked up the drivers side to lean the car up, and pulled the thermostat. No anti-freeze came out, indicating an air pocket. I took the stat out and put it in the oven in a pan of water, using an oven probe in the water, and watched it. It got to 220 degrees F and never opened. Then I took a new stat and threw it in the water at 200. Opened right up. This is to assure the new one isn't defective. I installed the new one, and to assure no air pocket, followed the complete procedure for my spill-proof funnel as outlined in various youtube videos. Air in the cooling system could be the reason a replaced thermostat fails. Problem solved.
Understand that thermostats have two sets of springs, and will partially open from about 180 to 205. Then, when climbing hills or getting on it, the temp will go to 220 to 228, and you will notice the temp gage go up, then go down when the stronger spring is compressed and the stat goes wide open. 13 bucks and your done.
SHOBLOCK

 

[Thormx]

First time I've heard that.

It’s only because I sell cars at a Ford dealer so shop time is only half the hourly rate and I get discounts on parts haha, ballpark about $1000

 

[kryptto]

It’s only because I sell cars at a Ford dealer so shop time is only half the hourly rate and I get discounts on parts haha, ballpark about $1000

Yeah, us normals - cry bloody ****** as u can imagine. I missed your statement - Texas has a good eye.

 

[1sloblusho]

Hey guys my 16 Sho recently started overheating when it sits at idle, mostly happens in drive throughs to the point I turn my car off while I’m waiting in line.

My heater also only blows hot air while driving and will blow cold air while sitting.

Water pump going bad is what I’ve seen looking some of this up, is that likely? I’m hoping something smaller but the thermostat isn’t very old I replaced it when doing my Ortiz tune about 20k miles ago.

I’m currently at 106k miles total so seems like it’s time for the water pump to go.
Any suggestions would be great

You ever figure out what the issue was? I’m having the same problem with my 12 that’s got 80k on it

 

[Thormx]

You ever figure out what the issue was? I’m having the same problem with my 12 that’s got 80k on it

I had it narrowed down to a few things but I’m not a mechanic by any means so I just throw parts at it until the problem is fixed lol, I put in a new fan assembly and new 170 thermostat at the same time along with draining and refilling most of the coolant in case of an air bubble.

My overheating issue was completely fixed after doing that, I’m kinda thinking it was the fans going out like @SHOdded suggested, the fans at low rpm’s were slightly creaky and loud. The new ones run much smoother

My only thing now is my coolant temperature going down temporarily by quite a bit when driving aggressively or hard braking, trying to figure out if my new thermostat is bad, maybe the old one is bad and this is intended operation, or maybe still have an air bubble in there causing the temp drop

 

[kryptto]

or maybe still have an air bubble in there causing the temp drop

more than likely - also check the oil dipstick and make sure that its not milky in color.

 

[1sloblusho]

I had it narrowed down to a few things but I’m not a mechanic by any means so I just throw parts at it until the problem is fixed lol, I put in a new fan assembly and new 170 thermostat at the same time along with draining and refilling most of the coolant in case of an air bubble.

My overheating issue was completely fixed after doing that, I’m kinda thinking it was the fans going out like @SHOdded suggested, the fans at low rpm’s were slightly creaky and loud. The new ones run much smoother

My only thing now is my coolant temperature going down temporarily by quite a bit when driving aggressively or hard braking, trying to figure out if my new thermostat is bad, maybe the old one is bad and this is intended operation, or maybe still have an air bubble in there causing the temp drop

Did it help the no heat at idle issue? I’ve got to keep mine around 2k rpm for the heat to work.

 

[Thormx]

Did it help the no heat at idle issue? I’ve got to keep mine around 2k rpm for the heat to work.

Yes it blows hot air perfectly at idle now

 

[dave stevenson]

when my temp went high couple yrs ago thought fans- - they didn't come on - tried changing the control module first - thru Rock Auto - that did it- no problem since - touch wood !!