One week after 120k, here are my codes, help please?

[luigisho]

I would clean the MAF and clear the codes. If the O2 codes come back then time for new ones.

 

[haydenm315]

I'm having similar problems but different codes. My car's idle fluctuates sometimes when coming to a stop and will stall. The odd thing is that the car starts immediately back up and will idle fine thereafter until I come to a stop again and play the idle lottery game. Have you had any luck yet? I cleaned my iac/iab a little while back but maybe it's dirty again.

 

[sdpatt]

haydenm315, have you reset the idle speed?

 

[haydenm315]

sdpatt:
haydenm315, have you reset the idle speed?

Yes... This seemed to fix my problem and the car idled well however after driving around for a while the stall tactics came back. The car starts right back up when I crank it with no difficulty firing or idleing after the stall. This seems strange to me. It was cold and late when I did my 2nd run last night and I didn't test it again afterwards. I'll do everything again and see where I end up. I've got an extra iac/iab from my wreck so I'll try swapping those out as well. Can't hurt. I did muck with that throttle body set screw a ways back. What does that thing do and how do I ensure that it's correctly set?

 

[sdpatt]

The base idle speed is set with the set screw at 850 rpm with the IAC valve disconnected and the SPOUT plug pulled. You can probably get away with just pulling the IAC connector. This allows the IAC valve a good working range.

If the idle reset corrected the problem for a short time, was it until the engine was stopped? That could mean that the keep alive memory power is not maintaining the ECC memory. Is there a second, smaller wire connected to teh negative battery terminal? Follow the wire and make sure the connector is still plugged in.

 

[haydenm315]

sdpatt
[QB]The base idle speed is set with the set screw at 850 rpm with the IAC valve disconnected and the SPOUT plug pulled. You can probably get away with just pulling the IAC connector. This allows the IAC valve a good working range.

Thanks

If the idle reset corrected the problem for a
short time, was it until the engine was stopped?

I dont' think so. I ran the car until it stalled after resetting the idle. Upon restarting after the stall the idle is fine until I start to slow down again, take it out of gear and try to idle.

I was throwing the pip code even before I replaced the crank sensor sprocket and vane. Maybe the wire is damaged. The cps wire did rub on the pump pulley but it didn't look to go very far into it and the car didn't do much more than idle for a few minutes.

What are all the possibilities for throwing the pip code? I guess I could trace the wire up and see where it goes. Do they list this in the helms? That thing is so freaking big you can get lost real quick. Could another sensors failure be throwing this or is the eec-iv a smart computer that usually lets you know exactly what's wrong

 

[sdpatt]

The PIP (profile ignition pickup) is the crankshaft position sensor (CPS) on the SHO.

 

[haydenm315]

sdpatt:
The PIP (profile ignition pickup) is the crankshaft position sensor (CPS) on the SHO.

So 10/10 times the problem lies between the connector and the sensor for the cps when that pip code is thrown. I have problems trusting computers since I work with them and know how they act. I dont' feel like going down there in the freezing cold if there is a possibility of it being something else that can be checked first before trudging down there again.

I have seen a little bit of needle jumpiness I think twice now when the car was started after it stalled. Both times I gave it a lot of gas and let the engine roar up to 4000 when it fired up. Other than that the needle action has been solid and smooth. I'm glad I have my trusty ford tempo to tote me around.

 

[BlackOnBlackATX]

hey, you have to clear the codes. i think one way is to pull the jumper off the test pin while running the KOEO test. another is to just unplug your battery and turn on your headlights and leave it for about 15min. but as far as i know the computer just stores codes in a rom when problem shows up but doesnt flag how many times they come up, but maybe someone else knows better than i do because im not sure why you get the same code twice when you read it. so in order to get the best idea what wrong you definitely need to clear your codes.

<small>[ December 19, 2002, 07:40 PM: Message edited by: BlackOnBlackATX ]</small>

 

[haydenm315]

sdpatt:
The base idle speed is set with the set screw at 850 rpm with the IAC valve disconnected and the SPOUT plug pulled. You can probably get away with just pulling the IAC connector. This allows the IAC valve a good working range.

If the idle reset corrected the problem for a short time, was it until the engine was stopped? That could mean that the keep alive memory power is not maintaining the ECC memory. Is there a second, smaller wire connected to teh negative battery terminal? Follow the wire and make sure the connector is still plugged in.

Contrary to what everyone has said I went ahead and increased the throttle body set screw a little bit and reset my idle again just for grins. The car idles fine and hasn't shown the stall when approaching idle problem yet. Once it did dip to 500rpms but it didn't surge and then die like it previously did. I still need to run my codes again to see if anything is still running rampant. I also replaced a damaged - battery terminal clamp which caused my car to quit and not restart in the recent past when pulling into a parking spot.

How does the computer store codes? Does it store repeat codes in the system and play them all back, or does the computer just flag a code with yes or no, when a problem occurs and read that back? The reason I ask is the last time I scanned the system it repeated the same codes twice on my reader. I think I stalled it twice before scanning.