On my 4th alternator in 1 1/2 years????

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Mishney

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Can anyone help me diagnose what is making my alternator blow up so much. I am replacing my third alternator in only a year and a half. The one I'm replacing now is only 2 months old. My Dad thinks it's my amp for my subs and at this point I almost have to agree. Has anyone experienced this or have any suggestions on whether or not the amp could be the problem. If the amp is the problem, what could fix it other than removal? Any help is appreciated!

Thanks!
Matt

<small>[ September 03, 2002, 11:31 PM: Message edited by: Mishney ]</small>
 

SHOZ123

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I would think if you had the proper type of battery the amp would not be the problem. What is going wrong with the alternators?

Bad ground, poor wiring or bad battery is my guess.
 

clintonk

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Are you using aftermarket, rebuilt alternators? Not all of those are created equal. And even a reputable rebuilder can get a bad part.

While the car is running, measure the voltage at the battery. Then, measure the voltage between the battery ground and the output of the alternator. If they're different, you've probably got a bad set of cables.

And do get a full charging system test.

Clinton Knight
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naval-avi8or

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Most important is to make sure when you replace the alt that the batt is tested and fully charged prior to installing the new alt. Bad or improperly charged batt will send the voltage regulator screaming all the way to its death...

<small>[ September 04, 2002, 11:54 PM: Message edited by: naval-avi8or ]</small>
 

Mishney

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I have a brand new Die Hard GOLD battery that was replaced with the last alternator 2 months ago. So it can't be the battery! Could it be bad cables? I forgot to add...the first alternator I had rebuilt by a guy I know who does all kinds of alternators and starters. That one lated about a year and then the one I put in 2 months ago was a Reman one I bought from a parts store with a lifetime warranty. (at least the replacement is free) I will have to check the voltage difference. The voltage at the battery originally was good...I checked when I replaced the alternator...it was about 14V. The reason I replaced the one two months ago was because the regulator was fried and it was putting out WAY too much voltage and actually cooked the battery. (It actually boiled over a bit) Hope that helps.

<small>[ September 03, 2002, 11:30 PM: Message edited by: Mishney ]</small>
 

Mans442

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Who is the manufacturer of the alterator(s)? I am on my second NAPA alternator in two months. When I went back to the store to get the replacement unit, the salespersons asked: "Is this for a SHO?" After I responded, he mentioned that he has seen a lot of problems with aftermarket SHO alternators.
 

NorthernSHO

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I have the bills that show the original owner of my car put four altenators on my car before he sold it to me...all were NAPA rebuilt units. I have since replaced that altenator again but this one seems to be ok. I think there can just be poorly rebuilt units.

I do know that when I had by Sunbird in highschool that it went through altenators all the time when I had my stereo installed. (amps and subs etc.) Once I removed the setup the altenators went from lasting two months tops to a bit over a year between changes. If you stereo is asking for big power you could be hurting your altenator I beleive.

Brett
 

kaoticSHO

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If you decide to go with another alternator try this guy out:

Dave's DC Electric

He is in California. I don't have his # handy. He built me an 225/290 amp alternator that makes 130 amps at idle and full rated hot around 2k. I think it makes more noise than the SQ-trim. hehe

His products are showcased in some of the demo cars of Alpine and JL Audio.

The 225/290 cost around $1100
 

Mr Anonymous

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Most rebuilt alternators include fresh paint on the housing, new brushes, and a rebuilt regulator. Generally the stator and rotor are reused unless they are in really bad shape. Sometimes you might even be lucky enough to get one with a new regulator. The regulator is generally the main culprit in premature alternator failure.

I recommend trying to find a place locally that specializes in alternators & starters. They often have names like 'So-and-so's Auto Electric'. They will usually have a higher level of QC than chain stores, and can often accomodate special requests like winding for higher amps, specifying all new internal components, etc. Around here (Boston), that runs about $200, which is competitive with the AutoZone's and NAPA's of the world, and even if they don't have a specific alternator in stock, they can rebuild yours within a few hours.

Another option might be Cincy SHO's 150amp alternators (stock is 130amp), which are brand new for $210 and can optionally be ordered powdercoated. If your amps are drawing so much current that they're cooking the regulators on you, that might be sufficient current to solve that problem.

In any case, as others have said, when you do replace the alternator, make sure you fully charge the battery right before installing the new alternator. It might be worth while to take the battery (even though it is relatively new) back to Sears/NTB to have them test it just to make sure it is still holding the proper charge, etc. A bad alternator can **** a brand new battery pretty quickly.
 

shojuan

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Mishney:
I have a brand new Die Hard GOLD battery that was replaced with the last alternator 2 months ago. So it can't be the battery!
Batteries can die *very* quickly with a bad alternator and/or regulator. Get the battery checked. Since it's only 2 months old, if it's bad you will get a free one. You don't want a cycle where the battery and alternator keep killing each other.

Jason: Dang! :)

Rick
 

Mr Anonymous

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OH, another thing...

Did you do the amp install yourself or did a stereo shop do it?

You might want to check all the amp wiring to make sure that none of it has worn or melted which might cause a transient short that could be contributing to the problem. Also double-check any ground connections to make sure there is clean metal-to-metal contact.
 

clintonk

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I haven't verified this myself, but according to the tech at the local alternator shop (who rebuilt both my SHO's alternators), the stock battery cables from Ford are part copper, part aluminum. The junction between the two metals can corrode over time, leading to a voltage drop at that point. This causes the regulator to sense a battery voltage below the true level, so the alternator runs at full output until it burns out. Replacement cables from Ford are all copper. Start at the positive battery terminal and follow the cable down about 12 inches, where there is a lump; this is the junction that fails.

Seriously, check the voltage levels at different points to see if the cables are OK.

Clinton Knight
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naval-avi8or

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I had mine rebuilt twice prior to getting a lifer from NAPA. I was told that the SHO alt has several problems (NOOOO a sho with problems) first the voltage reg is located internal to the alt and the alt is very compact. It is mounted in very confined space. The compact design and location result in poor cooling which breaks down the regulator. Some newer/rebuilt alt supposidly were modded with better internal vanes to help the cooling problem.
 

LaTechSHO

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though a lot of ac/delco parts have gone to crap in the last few years... i put an ac delco rebuilt alternator on my sho and have had no problems what-so-ever

Louis
 

kaoticSHO

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Here is the info on Dave's DC Electric:

9347 Narnia Dr.
Riverside, California

(909)509-5617

You may not need it now but he does build some rocking alts. He builds other sizes as well.
 

hooterville

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Unless your stereo components use as much electricity as a 20,000 BTU AC unit, your stereo isn't the problem. You have a bad ground somewhere in your electric system. If this has been happening after you installed your system, there might be a bad connection.

Electricity has to run on a current or everything goes haywire. Electricity would have no where to go, so it goes, in your case, to your alternator to fry it. It is possible, however, that you have been getting bad alternators. A slim possibility. Bring your car in to an electrical specialist. They can tell you what is going on by doing simple tests. FYI, the stock alternator (made by Mitsubishi) has an amperage of 120 and an output of 12.9V. The stock alternator can charge the system even with most of the electrical components operating at the same time (ie. you have you stereo on, your climate control, lights, and all power windows going down at the same time, etc.)
 

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