ok, so now what am I supposed to do I do with these parts

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SHO&'Vette

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I got the alternator and O2 sensors and now, I'm outside with some tools. the battery is out. It looks simple - not really - but I like to have a picture and some instructions before I do these things. I can't find anything on the web that gives me a blow by blow on how to install the new alternator (although I gather from several postings here that it shouldn't take me more than 20-30 minutes to do it -right!) and I read that the sensors go into the y-pipes under the car but that doesn't tell me much. Anybody got a minute to give me some instructions (or tell me where I could find some on the web). I know I should have the whole car manual but I don't have it right this minute and I don't want to wait another week to order one and get it .... my kids are bugging the **** out of me to get the car back on the road so they don't have to take the school bus!) Thanks,
1994 Silver ATX - used to be the coolest thing running around here ... would be again if it were running.
 

pete c

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If they don't wanna ride the bus, why ain't they fixin' it?

A set of ramps or floor jack and jack stands would be handy for the oh too sensors. Once you crawl under there, you can't miss them. The front one you could do without jacking it up.

As for the alt, haven't had the displeasure of having to change it yet, although I think it's coming soon. My alt is doing that cool sounding turbo whine imitation which means the bearings are not long for this world. Looks pretty simple though. Just remember to not tighten the belts anymore than neccesary, or you might be doin' it again in a few years. What is too tight? Dunno. Just leave them what seems too loose. If it is, the belt will sing to you. Tighten it a bit until it stops. I'm sure if you do a search, you can find some good destructions on how to do it properly.
 

185K89SHO

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The Y-pipe is the converter pipe that attaches to the exhaust manifolds. There is 1 O2 sensor for the front bank, near the oil filter and the rear O2 sensor is on the rear converter just above the passenger side drive axle.
Instructions according to the Ford SHO shop manual for a 94 SHO
1. Disconnect battery
2. Remove accessory belt.
3. Disconnect electrical harness connector and output terminal wiring
4. Remove bolt from rear generator bracket to generator.
5. Remove 2 generator mounting brackets
6. Remove generator from vehicle.

Hope this helps. Sounds easy.
John H.
 

Jr's Sho

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The alternator should have a total of four bolts securing it, and is easy to change. The rear 02 sensor on the ATX is a little tough to get too, I had mine on a lift and had to squeeze a long extension with the 02 socket on one of those U-joint sockets. It may be easier for you to get to it from the top, just lay on top of the engine and put your hand down behind the intake, this was the only way for me to plug in my sensor once I got it installed in the exhaust manifold.
 

SHO&'Vette

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thanks, i'm just back from the grocery store and ready to go back out and use all your good advice.... i told my husband, "I knew they'd come through!" I'll check back in about 20 minutes when I'm done and let you know how it went. (Well, make that 2 hours, probably.) thanks again.
 

SHO&'Vette

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I forgot to ask one more thing. It looks like one of the bolts holding the alternator on is behind the small pulley next to the alternator. Is that the pulley that is used to tighten the belt? If so, do I loosen the bolt in the middle of it? And one more thing, the belt looks like it has little cracks all along the grooves on the inside. If I were to characterize it, I'd say it looks old and dry. Is that normal? Should I put a new belt on while I'm in there anyway, just in case?
 

projectSHO89

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RE: the belt. Those cracks are not a problem as long as the "ridges" have not started tearing loose. The cracked appearance is quite normal.

Been too long since I swapped an alternator. Forgot the exact placement of the bolts.

And, why isn't the husband out there turning a wrench with you?

Steve
 

shojuan

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projectSHO89:

And, why isn't the husband out there turning a wrench with you?
Because Mom's the one with the wrenching expertise in that household. Ditto for the comment on the kids.

Tammy, did you get a Doug Lewis tranny from FPS installed in that SHO?
 

rangerj

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SHO&VETTE,

Looking at the alternator from the passenger side of the vehicle, below and to the left of the alternator is the idler pulley. The idler pulley is used to adjust the tension on the belt.

The idler pulley is held on by a 14mm nut. Loosen this nut about 2 turns. You do not have to remove it. The "stud" (forgive the expression) that the idler pulley is mounted to is raised and lowered by a "jack screw".

The screw head for the jack screw is on top of the idler pulley mounting bracket. It is a 5mm allen head screw. You turn the screw counter clockwise to loosen the belt, that is lower the pulley, and clockwise to tighten the belt.

When you are done with the alternator, and have the belt on the pulleys loose, tighten the 14mm nut with your finger, that is finger tight. Then adjust the belt tension by turning the jack screw clockwise.

When you are satisfied with the belt tension, DO NOT FORGET TO TIGHTEN THE 14MM NUT TO 25 (approximate) FOOT POUNDS TORQUE. This locks the tensioner pulley in place, and holds the pulley on the stud securely.

The 4 bolts that hold the alternator in place should be self evident as to where they go. You may find it easiest to insert the long one in first, and use it as a pivot point while you line up the other bolts.

The electrical connector for the alternator will only go in one way. It has a "key" built into it.

You should be able to knock this out in a couple of hours. If you get stuck give us a hallor, we'll get you through it. We can't have those kids riding the school bus, it aint "COOL".

When are you going to have your SHO painted yellow? (as in TAXI or SCHOOL BUS)

Let's see, you're a woman and you do the auto repairs, drive the kids to school, cook, clean, grocery shop, AH, do you have a sister? wink

You go girl! rangerj
 

Jr's Sho

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I didn't know that the idler pulley was used to adjust belt tension. I thought that was the serpentine tensioner's job. Well when I replaced my alt. a few months ago, I removed the idler pulley and just tightened it back up normally. So I guess I should check the tension, eh?
 

pete c

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projectSHO89:
RE: the belt. Those cracks are not a problem as long as the "ridges" have not started tearing loose. The cracked appearance is quite normal.

Been too long since I swapped an alternator. Forgot the exact placement of the bolts.

And, why isn't the husband out there turning a wrench with you?

Steve
From what I gather, it ain't his ride. He shouldn't be out there, her daughters should.
 

rangerj

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SHO&VETTE,

Jr. may be right, you may have a different belt tensioner than the earlier SHO (Gen Is). Yours may be a spring loaded belt tensioner. I would look it up for you but I do not have a 94 shop manual.

Another thought! The O-2 sensor takes a special socket, It has a slit in it to accomodate the wires when you slip it over the sensor. Disconnect the sensor before you start to unscrew it. Then the new sensor gets put in at about 25 to 30 foot pounds torque.

The front one is easier to get at if you remove the fan and its schroud. if you do this be careful not to over tighten the nut and bolt that holds the schroud to the radiator, It is on the driver's side of the radiator. I do not think that was changed on the 94 (vrs the earlier SHOs).

If you overtighten it you can crack the radiator tank! Not good!

Lastly, for now. If the cracks in the belt run along the ribs, as apposed to accross the ribs, the belt should be replaced. rangerj
 

SHO&'Vette

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that explains everything ... thank you so much, I really, really appreciate the help. I couldn't do it without you "guys". and, my husband was and will be out there with me. We take turns with the wrench (as in "hey, do you want me to do that.") The daughters were plopped on the couch watching TV - not my choice of activities, ever, but I have been unable to convince them that what they watch is pure drivel, at its worst, and unedifying, at best (then I hand them a dictionary).

and I did get the trans replaced, finally, but I had it done by a guy here in Kensington. He put in a Jaspar rebuilt and that part is great! After he did the work, though, I got a code that indicated that the trans fluid temperature sensor(?) is out of range. Is that something I should be concerned about or can I safely ignore it?
 

SHO&'Vette

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one more thing... the idle pulley/tensioner (I wish I could draw a picture here)... am I correct that this is the small pulley immediately to the left and slightly below the alterantor pulley? Is the belt tensioner mechanism on this pulley? I read the explanation about the 'stud' (I liked that part) and the jack screw but I don't see where that pulley is on any mounting bracket that can be moved to adjust tension. I'm sorry if I am being dense here. I'm going out to the car right now to look again. The alternator is in but the belt is not on (for the obvious reason that I didn't want to use a crow bar if there was an easier way ... ) I'll be back in 10.
 

AutoSHO

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No, on your automatic, you have a spring loaded belt tensioner. Look over towards the power steering pump. There will be a pulley with (I think) a 17mm bolt on it. This pulley is mounted on an arm with a spring loaded hub in the center.

See where the ratchet is on the pulley to the left of teh crank pulley? Thats the tensioner. Put on your 17mm and push it down to relieve the tension on the belt. Re-installation is the oppposite.
atx4.jpg
 

SHO&'Vette

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a picture is worth a thousand words. thank you thank you ... i'll be back in a minute. I'm running out to the car triumphantly with picture in hand
 

rangerj

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SHO&VETTE,

"Prissy", "drivel", "unedifying", "triumphantly", no wunder your kids need a dictionary! Good for you, half the kids these days think "mother" is half a word. (Tongue planted firmly in cheek, and my computer cannot spell either.)

Sorry to mislead you on the idler pulley/tensioner. Take a good mental picture of the routing of the belt so you can put it back on correctly. I think there is a label with a diagram picture of the routing on the cover over the radiator.

Next, your trans sensor is not a safety concern, but it shoud be checked into. It is very likely to be a poor connection, but could be a faulty sensor. Was your old sensor transferred to your new trans? Or, was it a new sensor? If it was a new sensor it should be covered under the warranty.

You have got to let us know when you successfully, and indubitably with great triumph, complete this great quest. Like the crook said in "Dirty Harry", "I gots to know". Its unadulterated drivel, I know, but I like "Dirty Harry".

Prissy, and married, huh? Oh well maybe someday I'll find a woman who knows which end of the tool to torque! :D rangerj

PS As Bud Costello would say, I'm a bad boy! (Abot and Costello of the "Who's on first" routine)
 

SHO&'Vette

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****, yes! it's up and running ... it's like an act of creation, it feels so good. When it turned over, my husband said, "and then there was light!" and the daughters heard the tell-tale sound of freedom and came running out. One is off to the car wash and then we're back out there to put in the O2 sensors ...

and by the way, I have to bust myself out on something... after huffing and puffing and pushing and grunting to push that belt tensioner down while my husband was pulling the other end of the belt onto the pulley, I looked down at the front of the car and there's a diagram labeling all the pulleys, including the "tensioner," right where you showed me in the picture! Ah, just like a guy, I am, I don't read the directions even when there right in front of my face. Thank you all a thousand times over. You're the best. I'll be back with the "O2 Episode" as soon as I'm done. love, tammy
 
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