ok...last questions I will ask about my flywheel chattering issues b4 replacement...

[Blue-By-U]

Upon takeoff my car is unsmooth and slightly rattles as if the flywheel was not reground properly or at all.

What I'm asking is would this cause my TOB to wear out faster?

Also, I'm hearing slight noises from that area like a grind and tiny rattle as if my TOB is going bad. These symptoms of my flywheel chattering?

What do you guys think?

I will be replacing the flywheel, clutch and TOB but I want to make sure that this noise I'm hearing isn't rod bearings or anything like that...I wanna make sure it's all related to my flywheel/clutch/TOB.

 

[Bizzy]

Well, if it were rod bearings, the noise would be evident all the time, not just when the clutch was being engaged. Best thing to do is listen. Stand outside the car while parked and press on the clutch pedal, if the noise goes away when the pedal is down, then it's more than likely TOB chatter.

In regards to your "chatter" that you get. Are you hearing it only when the car is on and not moving.....or are you "feeling" it when you are starting to move in 1st gear? (where you can feel it in the drive train) Just trying to get a feel for what you are experiencing.

Quoting a post of Mark Nunnally's regarding a guy who was getting the drive train chatter... "If you are getting chatter, that's a sign of an aggressive friction material, un-true PP, or un-true flywheel surface, or all 3. In your case, with the stock disc, you have a friendly friction material, so the chatter has to be coming from the PP or FW. The pressure plates are machined pretty true from the factory, so I'd lean towards the FW as being the problem."

<small>[ May 17, 2003, 11:31 PM: Message edited by: Bizzy ]</small>

 

[Blue-By-U]

Thanks Bizzy...when the car is in neutral and at idle, the noise seems to be coming from the tranny area. When I press on the clutch pedal the noise goes away and I hear and feel unsmooth vibration from the tranny/clutch area upon takeoff. I hope once I replace my clutch/TOB/FW that the problem is solved.

Another question I have is can rod bearings be replaced during a clutch replacement? I'm thinkinga about getting them done simply for maint. reasons...or should I have them done while doing a full 60k?

 

[89SHOduff]

This seems like alot of $$$ if you dont have the time to do it yourself. I'm havin the same problems and I would hate to have to replace all of these parts. Any clue to how much this job would be??

 

[AutoSHO]

89SHOduff:
This seems like alot of $$$ if you dont have the time to do it yourself. I'm havin the same problems and I would hate to have to replace all of these parts. Any clue to how much this job would be??

Clutch: $300 for the full kit from Josh w/ seals, etc.
Labor + Flywheel Regrind: $300-$550, depending on the shop.

 

[Blue-By-U]

There is a sho mechanic in Mass that I went to for the clutch job in my 89. I was extremely pleased with the work. He charged me $320 for the clutch, refresh tranny fluid, replace sfb's, 3 new motor mounts, and to redo the rear main seal.

I will be spending around $1000 for this job since I'm going to be putting the sho nut kit, upgraded ceramic TOB, sho nut reinforced motor mounts, new rear main seal, and new flywheel. $300 seams fair considering it would take me a freakin week to do this myself.

 

[Bizzy]

when the car is in neutral and at idle, the noise seems to be coming from the tranny area. When I press on the clutch pedal the noise goes away and I hear and feel unsmooth vibration from the tranny/clutch area upon takeoff. I hope once I replace my clutch/TOB/FW that the problem is solved.

That noise that goes away would be your throw out bearing, or possibly gear roll over. The unsmooth vibration sounds to me like the flywheel may not be true. Yet to be seen by you soon.

Another question I have is can rod bearings be replaced during a clutch replacement?

The area where the rod bearings is not opened up while doing a clutch. You'll need to drop the oil pan, oil pickup and girdle to get to where they are. Once you're there it's not that difficult a job, but time consuming getting there. I should mention that I've never done it myself, but rather watched and listened intently when Fred changed mine out.

I'm thinkinga about getting them done simply for maint. reasons...or should I have them done while doing a full 60k?

Either would be fine, your choice. I got mine done with over 160k on the clock and there was very little wear compared to others I've seen with less miles. Every car is different, but as long as you're not getting the flickering oil pressure light you should be ok.

<small>[ May 18, 2003, 04:36 PM: Message edited by: Bizzy ]</small>

 

[Blue-By-U]

There is definitely no oil flickering light but I want them done regardless because I want my SHO running %100 before I start modding it. Everyone esp Bizzy you've all been very helpful....thanks!