Ok just how envolved is swapping springs & struts?

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ACV1081

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Well I have some different springs & struts on the way but want to save some $ & do the swap myself... anyone know of a good writeup or some suggestions before I tackle this project? Oh & the springs are already on the strut so there will be no need to compress springs & what not. Thanks in advance. thumbs_u
 

ACV1081

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hmmmm... it is spring break starting tomm. eek! Ughh what I wouldn't give to have Scott touch the 91... maybe this summer who knows :p
 

philw349

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Just did them (or I should say a friend did them for me). You need to compress the springs on the car just to get them off, no way around that unfortunately.
 

ACV1081

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MeShoHorney:
I will be doing this job next week along with Poly bushings and brand new strut mount and bearings. I will be taking some pictures and maybe a quick write-up.
BTW, shotimes has a good write-up on the procedure. http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3strutreplacement.html
Hey that is very helpful but you want to give me some details on what all you're replacing when you do yours? I might as well make sure everything gets done while they're apart. You can email me off topic if you'd prefer but I definitely appreciate the writeup.
 

Darkside

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If your car has seen some salt in its day, I would have a torch handy. It would be a good idea to heat up the bolts before removing. You do not want to bust off a pincher bolt. Been there, done it - not fun. Good luck.
 

shotx

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What's a reasonable price range for installation of struts and springs. I've ordered Eibachs and Tokicos and would like to have some kind of idea.
 

DemonNeno

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philw349:
Just did them (or I should say a friend did them for me). You need to compress the springs on the car just to get them off, no way around that unfortunately.
I've replaced suspension parts (springs, struts, bushings) on over a handful of Taurus' and taken apart about 3 SHO's.. Never once have I had to compress anything on the car.

As for your question Adam, If you live in a salty environment and have corrosive or rusty nuts and bolts, you'll need a torch. I've seen it happen so many times. The Pinch bolt that holds the Strut to the lower assembly snaps... And it's a PITA to remove! On the rear assembly, the biggest pain is removing the upper strut mount nuts. It takes some creativity to pull the struts out of the assembly, though. What I do is have my buddy step on the lower control arms (both of them, to prevent them from bending or even taking the chance... You never know what will happen until it happens!)or if you're on a lift just pull odwn on them. If you have any specific questions, email me at [email protected] and I'll get back to you as soon as I can. good luck!
 

MeShoHorny

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My car is from the south so rust is not a problem. I have been Pblasting the bolts for the last couple of days juts to be on the safe side.

Adam, here is a quick list of what I am replacing since I would like to do this job one time and do it right.
Tokicos/Eibachs- all four corners

Strut Mounts- all four corners

Strut bearings- both front

New pinch bolts, strut nuts and washers- all four corners

16 Poly strut bushings (4 per axel) 16 total.

Two rear sway bar endlinks

4 swaybar poly bushings(body mount) 2 each front and rear.

If ya need any part numbers I have them as well. Shoot me an e-mail.

Edit I agree with Neno. I see no reason to compress the springs as the entire assembly will be coming out and a new assembly installed. But I have a spring compressor on hand if I do need it for some reason.

<small>[ March 15, 2002, 12:11 PM: Message edited by: MeShoHorney ]</small>
 

philw349

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Oh yeah, he's not using strut inserts on stock casings. guess you wouldn't need the compressor :eek:

<small>[ March 15, 2002, 02:18 PM: Message edited by: philw349 ]</small>
 

Bizzy

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Off topic but shotx....can I please, please, please have your intake???? God I love that thing! :D
 

89 Gary

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I'd get new dust boot kits (which has the bump stops inside them). They seem more flexible than stock. Make sure you ty-wrap the bottom to the strut. I see so many cars of all types without the boot being ty-wraped and of course the dirt splashes up onto the piston shaft and can lead to failure way before it's time.
 

SHO SPD

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Adam, my turn... I did the rears on my 89.. its pretty basic, however it is a pain with the bolts being so rusty and whatnot.. but the pinch bolt is the worst.. I busted one of mine, then I found a better way with no torch... I used TONS of WD-40 then when your removing th epinch bolt, twist it out a turn or two, then tighten it back in.. loosten it out a little more, tighten it back in all while spraying WD-40 on it... this taes about 15 min. alone, but you will not break the bolt this way... GOOD LUCK!!! anything else, just IM me..
 

89 Gary

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WD-40 is a lubricant mostly.To break the rust buildup a rust penetrant (liquid wrench etc.) is better. Tightening and then loosening a bit at a time is a very good way to get bolts out. Good job!!!!!!!!
 

MeShoHorny

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89 Gary:
WD-40 is a lubricant mostly.To break the rust buildup a rust penetrant (liquid wrench etc.) is better. Tightening and then loosening a bit at a time is a very good way to get bolts out. Good job!!!!!!!!
One word "PBlaster"! Works better then LR and WD-40. Touched by the hand of God
 

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