Ok, I'm Doing The The Front 60K Myself. Please Advise!

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SHO_ROLLER_2

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Well, Kinda myself. CWhalenSHO lives in the same town as I do and he's going to be doing the 60K on his SHO as well. So we're going to help eachother out. :woo-hoo:

I've done brakes, valve cover gaskets, and SFBs on my SHO but this would be the first time for both of us doing a job like this. I would like to know what to expect and what to prepare for. Any hang-ups we might run into? Any bolts that tend to break? Things like that.

We've both looked at the info on shophoenixproject and I'm sure that will be a big help:thankyou:.

ANY info and input you can add would be greatly appreciated. We'll start work on the cars sometime this month or next, I just want to be ready!

Thanks Again!
 

shoon

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I encountered trouble with the valve cover bolts. Mine were corroded and stripped easily, I tried to cut a slot into them with a dremmel and use a screwdriver to twist them out, but that didn't work either, they were just too tight.

Ended up welding some nuts onto a couple of them and was able to finally get them out though!

if you have done valve cover gaskets the shims should not be hard at all. Just take your time, and make sure the engine is at room temperature when measuring clearances.

Good luck!

Edit: also, some of the rubber on my valve bolt seals were fairly chewed up, some didn't seal too well and leaked a bit of oil, I later had to remove some of them and put a thin bead of RTV around them until I get new rubbers.

Not sure if you are doing the water pump as well or not... but had issues trying to keep the o ring inside the w/p housing while bolting it to the head. Bought some gasket glue stuff from the local auto store that held it in place. Also the crossover tube that runs under the intake, if you replace the o-rings on that use a dab of coolant to **** them up to make them slide in easier.
 
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SHO_ROLLER_2

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I encountered trouble with the valve cover bolts. Mine were corroded and stripped easily, I tried to cut a slot into them with a dremmel and use a screwdriver to twist them out, but that didn't work either, they were just too tight.

Ended up welding some nuts onto a couple of them and was able to finally get them out though!

if you have done valve cover gaskets the shims should not be hard at all. Just take your time, and make sure the engine is at room temperature when measuring clearances.

Good luck!

Edit: also, some of the rubber on my valve bolt seals were fairly chewed up, some didn't seal too well and leaked a bit of oil, I later had to remove some of them and put a thin bead of RTV around them until I get new rubbers.

Not sure if you are doing the water pump as well or not... but had issues trying to keep the o ring inside the w/p housing while bolting it to the head. Bought some gasket glue stuff from the local auto store that held it in place. Also the crossover tube that runs under the intake, if you replace the o-rings on that use a dab of coolant to **** them up to make them slide in easier.

I'm doing the WP, CPS, front main seal, basically a whole front 60K.

Thanks for the info:thumb:
 

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