oil pressure

[Jon Klein]

I was wondering if insanely good oil pressure could cancel out the possibility of a rod bearing problem. As I have posted before I have a mild to medium volume ticking at idle and in general the engine feels rough. I figured bearings. But today my car was idling and it did that wierd thing where it drops to 600 then up to 1100 and back and forth. Even when the car would bounce down to almost 400 rpms the oil pressure light wouldn't come on. I know it works because it lights up when you turn the car to on. (push the key a little farther and the yellow check oil light comes on too). Does my good oil press. mean no bearing probs????

U guys are the best.

Jon

 

[Jon Klein]

by the way.....i know we talk about this topic all the time so I was reluctant to post but i tried to search and couldn't find a clear answer to my question.

thanks again

 

[billh]

Jon
Absolutely not. We destroyed a number of very expensive Super Stock eliminator engines, all of them had 50 lbs at an idle, and around 80 lbs at 7000 RPM, combined with a three quart oil accumulator, by spinning rod bearings. Excessive clearance can not be compensated for with oil pressure.
In case you are interested, the cure was:
1) Have the rods heat treated and shot peened (Using 4.06 Bore pistons that weighed 432 grams, and tool steel wrist pins helped a bunch too)
2) Have the rods re-conditioned out of round, Bigger at the parting line by .001.
3) Pinning the bearings to the caps.
4) Pray.

 

[rangerj]

JON,

You could put your mind at ease if the next time you change oil you send a sample to a lab and have it analized for metal particles!

Another alternative would be to pull the oil pan and check a set of bearings.

As for your erratic idle, check for codes. Make sure the throttle body is clean. Has your battery been disconnected? If yes, you may need to go through the idle "reset" proceedure.

This is a common problem, but unfortunately there are many possible causes. LOL, rangerj

 

[Jon Klein]

thanks for the quicks replies!

I might have that oil analyzed....I also might just take it in and have them changed...I could do it myself but I just couldn't afford to screw anything up. Would I really save alot of $$$$ if I did it myself or is it not worth it?

any info would be great...

Jon

 

[Mike Kopstain]

Another tip for you:

Keep your oil filter at the end of your next oil change and cut the top 1/2 inch off. Pull out the filter element and spread it out. Look for metal particles.

150k here and no particle. Haven't done a single 60k either.

 

[SHOZ123]

I just changed the rod bearings on my '93. It had a definite knock not a tic at idle once warmed up. Also when accelerating and declercerating there was no knock. But say going 3-4k and just maintaining speed there was a knock.

 

[sdpatt]

A new set of six Clevite CB1435P connecting rod bearings for the SHO from NAPA auto parts: $44.94 (+tax). Doing the engine saving job yourself: priceless.

 

[Jon Klein]

Thanks for all the info guys...just for curiosity reasons, what would be a good estimate for getting the bearings replaced at a shop? thanks again.

Jon