Although I know the CPS is going again, (revs drop and dies coming to a stoplight) the oil pressure light went on for 10 minutes while driving tho there was plenty of oil. Where I was, I HAD to keep going regardless, so I drove it another 2 miles and no lockup. Has not gone on again since, tho used sparingly. A possible erratic signal or is the pump starting to go? 175,000 miles 92 MTX. An oil pump is an engine pull, right? Any ideas? Is pump failure common on the 3.0?
Oil Pressure Light?
- Thread starter rshemp
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Jaz2099
New Member
Search for topics on rod bearings I believe that is associated with low oil pressure. When is the last time O2 sensors have been changed?
F-22 Raptor SHO
New Member
1: Welcome to the forum.
2: I'm sorry to tell you but you just cooked your rod bearings. The red oil light meant to pull over and turn off the motor because you were not gettting any pressure at all. You drove it 10 minutes which is like running for 10 minutes while holding your breath.
The best news you could get is that your oil pressure sending unit went bad, but dont even waste your time checking, they go bad as often as the dipstick breaking by itself. 2nd best news would be that your spun rod bearing didnt score the crank. Either way you will have to take the oil pan off and see what damage was done.
Sorry to scare you, but reality is reality. Hopefully you dont need a new motor.
2: I'm sorry to tell you but you just cooked your rod bearings. The red oil light meant to pull over and turn off the motor because you were not gettting any pressure at all. You drove it 10 minutes which is like running for 10 minutes while holding your breath.
The best news you could get is that your oil pressure sending unit went bad, but dont even waste your time checking, they go bad as often as the dipstick breaking by itself. 2nd best news would be that your spun rod bearing didnt score the crank. Either way you will have to take the oil pan off and see what damage was done.
Sorry to scare you, but reality is reality. Hopefully you dont need a new motor.
SASHO91
Zoom Zoom
oh....
then all is good.... but poor some more oil in though.....
then all is good.... but poor some more oil in though.....
sdpatt
Sr. SHO Engr.
Several things. There is an orange OIL LEVEL light that indicates your oil level is low and there is an orange CHECK ENGINE light that indicates an engine control fault has occurred. They are not the same light.
The crankshaft position sensor does not reveal itself by letting the revs drop as you approach a stoplight. The CPS fails and drops the revs to zero as indicated by the tach (no tach signal). It feels like the ignition key was just turned off. No more spark. No more fuel.
It sounds like the idle speed programming may need to be reset. If that doesn't correct the rpm drop at lights it may be the idle air control (IAC) valve or the vehicle speed sensor (VSS).
Here is a reprint of the idle speed reset procedure. Please note that the owner's manual states that after disconnecting the battery, you should just start the engine and just let it idle without touching the gas pedal (for at least the 70 seconds).
1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
1a) Optionally, disconnect the keep alive memory connector in the small wire also landed to the negative battery terminal. You can then wait the 10 minutes, reconnect the plug, and go to step 6).
2) Turn on the headlight switch.
3) Wait at least 10 minutes.
4) Turn off headlight switch.
5) Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
6) Start engine normally (never press on the gas pedal).
7) Allow idle speed to settle for about 30 seconds.
8) Within 70 seconds of starting the engine, apply all accessory loads the engine will see at idle. Do these concurrently.
8a) Climate control to MAX A/C.
8b) Headlight switch ON.
8c) Turn steering wheel 1/2 turn side to side.
8d) Press brake pedal.
8e) ATX SHOs only: shifter to DRIVE.
9) Do not turn off engine for at least 5 minutes.
10) It is preferable that the car be driven immediately after setting the idle programming.
11) While driving, allow the coolant temperature to rise to the normal range.
12) Run the car through its entire performance range.
The crankshaft position sensor does not reveal itself by letting the revs drop as you approach a stoplight. The CPS fails and drops the revs to zero as indicated by the tach (no tach signal). It feels like the ignition key was just turned off. No more spark. No more fuel.
It sounds like the idle speed programming may need to be reset. If that doesn't correct the rpm drop at lights it may be the idle air control (IAC) valve or the vehicle speed sensor (VSS).
Here is a reprint of the idle speed reset procedure. Please note that the owner's manual states that after disconnecting the battery, you should just start the engine and just let it idle without touching the gas pedal (for at least the 70 seconds).
1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
1a) Optionally, disconnect the keep alive memory connector in the small wire also landed to the negative battery terminal. You can then wait the 10 minutes, reconnect the plug, and go to step 6).
2) Turn on the headlight switch.
3) Wait at least 10 minutes.
4) Turn off headlight switch.
5) Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
6) Start engine normally (never press on the gas pedal).
7) Allow idle speed to settle for about 30 seconds.
8) Within 70 seconds of starting the engine, apply all accessory loads the engine will see at idle. Do these concurrently.
8a) Climate control to MAX A/C.
8b) Headlight switch ON.
8c) Turn steering wheel 1/2 turn side to side.
8d) Press brake pedal.
8e) ATX SHOs only: shifter to DRIVE.
9) Do not turn off engine for at least 5 minutes.
10) It is preferable that the car be driven immediately after setting the idle programming.
11) While driving, allow the coolant temperature to rise to the normal range.
12) Run the car through its entire performance range.
Thanks a lot for the info. will do this over the weekeend after i make room in the garage. (Chicago still cold) One thing I am puzzled about tho; how the **** do you start the car after battery disconnect? Do I assume you disconnect to clear the memory first, reconnect, start and then re-disconnect? Also, I see you have 305K miles which makes my 175K only half way there. Although it's in great shape, I figured to skip the 60K mile deal and just drive it till it dies. With your 305, I am rethinking that. You know of anyone in the Chicago area capable of the 60K service that knows SHO's? Thanks again
Similar threads
