Oil leak?

[dpsutphin]

I will make this as brief as possible, but it may get a little long. My mystery continues. I just completed the front 60K. Everything went well. Started it up, ran perfectly after a minute or two, which I assume is what it should do since it takes a little bit for the computer to reset everything after the battery is disconnected.

As I was sitting there, feeling all proud of doing this whole thing myself, I saw a little smoke coming from the area of the CID. I didn't think too much of it, since there were copious amounts of PB blaster and liquid wrench used. Just thought it might be some of that burning off. Then I realized I forgot to replace the splash guard in the wheel well. So I shut it off, jacked it back up, and put the splash guard back on.

Got in to start it up and go for a drive and just like before, it would turn over, but would not start. Refer to my previous post for details on that:

http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=64398

When I checked the codes, the cover of the code connector was covered with oil. When I replaced the CID seal, it had obviously been leaking. I assumed this was the cause of my first problem. And of course, just as before, there are no codes.

My question is, is there anything (valve cover gasket perhaps) in the area of the CID that could leak oil and cause this to happen besides the CID seal? Or is there some other problem that I might not know about?

I know I can go out there in the morning, and it will start up and run perfectly. But at some point, or just whenever I shut it off, it won't start again for several hours.

Any ideas or help will be greatly appreciated.

dpsutphin
1990 Black on Black
All stock except for K&N filter and Summit Turbo Mufflers

 

[ohfosho]

most people end up 'rolling' the valve cover gasket on the rear head, because it is hard to see. when the engine is cool, just run your hand back there and see what you feel. it could very well be the cam seal behind the sensor to, that happens. did you replace the cam seals (there are 3)?


might be a good idea to do an engine shampoo if you loaded lots of PB blaster etc... on there, it will definetly help you find where your leak is/if there is a leak.

next ??? did you gap the CPS before putting it on?

 

[Howdy_Doody]

You know, I'm a little confused, you did change the Crankshaft sensor when you did the 60K right?! Because you talk about the CID and a valve cover oil leak and the Crankshaft sensor is nowhere near the valve cover.

And the reason I mention this is because the Crankshaft sensor would cause the problems you're having.

 

[dpsutphin]

most people end up 'rolling' the valve cover gasket on the rear head, because it is hard to see. when the engine is cool, just run your hand back there and see what you feel. it could very well be the cam seal behind the sensor to, that happens. did you replace the cam seals (there are 3)?


might be a good idea to do an engine shampoo if you loaded lots of PB blaster etc... on there, it will definetly help you find where your leak is/if there is a leak.

next ??? did you gap the CPS before putting it on?

The CPS was gapped properly, and all 3 seals were replaced with new ones. The crank seal was also replaced. It was evident that it had been leaking as well. There is no leak now in the lower part of the engine. I just cannot tell for sure about the top part yet.

 

[sho_sc]

You know, I'm a little confused, you did change the Crankshaft sensor when you did the 60K right?! Because you talk about the CID and a valve cover oil leak and the Crankshaft sensor is nowhere near the valve cover.

And the reason I mention this is because the Crankshaft sensor would cause the problems you're having.

Also a horrible leak from the cams seals (and/or leak from an untightened oil pump bolt) will cause this .. runs down and drowns the CPS ....

 

[dpsutphin]

You know, I'm a little confused, you did change the Crankshaft sensor when you did the 60K right?! Because you talk about the CID and a valve cover oil leak and the Crankshaft sensor is nowhere near the valve cover.

And the reason I mention this is because the Crankshaft sensor would cause the problems you're having.

The crankshaft sensor (CPS) was replaced as well as the crankshaft seal. The CID is the camshaft identification sensor I belive. It is located at the top passenger side of the engine which would place it close to the valve cover. I did not replace it (just the seal behind it), because I had just done it a couple of months ago.

Sorry if I got the terminolgy backwards. The one thing I don't need is more confusion...lol.

 

[sho_sc]

If the tach reads anything other than 0 when you crank it, then I would suspect the fuel pump.

 

[ohfosho]

double check everything, make sure that the MAIN GROUND on the rear pass. side of the intake is tightened on...it is tricky to work back there, so it have have been forgotten and now has a faulty connection.

how did it run whe you First started it up? you mentioned it was fine after 2 mins or so, but did not say if it was running badly or making strange noises when you first started.

was the cam seal behind the cam sensor (CID) leaking really badly? if so, you may want to change that out for a new one too.

 

[dpsutphin]

I never took the rear ground off. I only did the front 60K, not the upper.

When I started it, it made no strange noises, just ran a little rough for a very short time, which is normal after disconnecting the battery. It smoothed out and ran perfectly after that.

I ran it for about 5 minutes at various lower rpms, always stopping just short of the secondaries. It was running perfectly when I shut it off. Then it wouldn't start again.

Now to complicate matters, it still won't start after sitting 24 hours. The battery was about dead, so I am charging it, and will try again tomorrow. I guess a new CID would not hurt, even though I just replaced it a couple of months ago, and it did not look damaged in any way when I took it off.

I'll also get a fuel pressure gauge and check that as well, although when I pressed the valve on the fuel rail, gas went everywhere, so I do have fuel pressure, just don't know if it is enough.

After that, I guess I'll just do the upper 60K since it needs to be done soon anyway, and just see what happens.

I'm open to any other suggestions or ideas.

Thanks.

 

[Howdy_Doody]

Is your tach reading when you're cranking it? I'm still skeptical of he CPS or the wiring associated with it. Are you getting a spark when cranking? Hook up an inductive timing light and see if it flashes. Battery cables in excellent condition and tight? A bad battery connection can create problems like this too.

 

[dpsutphin]

Just replaced the fuel filter and CID. Once again, the car started and worked perfectly for a few minutes (until it warmed up). Then lots of smoke from the rear passenger side of the engine, and the engine sputtered and quit. It still ran perfectly when the smoke started right up until it sputtered and quit.

There obviously is a major oil leak in the rear of the engine. When I replaced the CID, it did not have any oil or anything else on the inside of it. When placed beside the new one, it is almost impossible to tell them apart. And no, I did not get them mixed up when it was reinstalled.

I know the seal behind the CID was seated properly when I installed it, and I checked carefully and could not see any sign of pooching or anything else that would indicate it was not all the way in, and sealed.

My question remains; Is there anything in that area of the engine that could leak oil besides that seal and the valve cover gasket, and if there is no oil on the CID, what would cause the car to die and not restart until it sits for several hours?

I will take the intake off later today when it cools and see if I can get a better look at the area.

Any ideas and/or advice will be sincerely appreciated.