Oil in Coolant

[Marccus]

'89 w/429.5K

Several months ago, I saw oil globs floating on the top of the coolant in the coolant reservoir. They were small and only two or three of them.

I checked it again after a couple of days and they were gone. There was no sheen of oil on the ssurface of the liquid.

I check PS fluid, brake fluid, oil, and coolant every time I gas up (twice a week) and over the next two three months there was no oil.

Two days ago, I again saw oil globs floating on top of the coolant in the reservoir bottle. Same number and same size as before.

Today they are gone but there is a sheen of oil on top of the coolant surface.

I've done a lot of reading on this forum and the web and 99% of people state that this means there is a blown head gasket(s).

The common cause is a warped head.



What else would cause a blown head gasket if the head is not warped?


The other mentioned cause for the oil in the coolant was a failed seal in the oil cooler (at the oil filter).


For those familiar with this problem, how likely is it that the problem is a seal failure in the oil cooler?



Is it worth looking at this first?

I've never dealt with this item before.

If the heads are not warped and the oil cooler is not the problem I assume I would have to replace the head gaskets and see if the problem is cleared up.



If the heads are warped, are there any specially made gaskets to "fix" a warped head such that it would seal properly to the block to prevent oil leaking into the coolant?

A "fix" imilar to salvaging stripped threads by driliing out the hole and inserting a coiled insert with new threads.



If I can't do anything to stop the leak, shouldn't I be able to continue with periodic draining of some coolant and replace it with fresh coolant to keep the amount of oil in the coolant acceptable?



Or just drain the entire system, fill with new coolant, skim off the oil in the old coolant and put it back in the system after the coolant in the radiator is drained and repeat the cycle?

Thanks.

 

[Brett]

Is that a type? 400k+ miles?

Generally head gaskets are pretty reliable in these cars, but with that kinda mileage they could have just up and gone bad. How long has the car been in your possession? Ever overheated?

Head gaskets is almost certainly what you need.

 

[St Louis SHO]

If its not overheating or putting water in the oil, I'd drive it until it decides it doesnt like you anymore.

 

[Marccus]

Is that a type? 400k+ miles?

Generally head gaskets are pretty reliable in these cars, but with that kinda mileage they could have just up and gone bad. How long has the car been in your possession? Ever overheated?

Head gaskets is almost certainly what you need.

I've owned the car since I've bought it new just when the SHO came out in 1989.

I've loved it ever since. Nothing else American is a fun to drive.

I wish Ford did not discontinue it; I would buy another.

After going through the misery of sensor failures and after replacing practically all of them, I've driven for as long as several years before another sensor problem pops up.

Just keep up on maintenance before problems occur. I have several intake manifolds that I switch out so any one of them doesn't get filled up with gunk.

I don't have EGR (yeah!).


429K is about right, but I've lost the speedo cable and therefore the odometer a number of times> I don't know how much mileage that accoutns for.

I do a lot of photography and travel to the National Parks throughout the country on vacations so I put a LOT of miles on the car; but luckily it is highway miles.

Car has never overheated.

OK. Headgaskets it is.



What brand should I buy???

Ford OEM? Mr. Gasket? FelPro??

Thanks

 

[Marccus]

No water in oil.

 

[shoshirtsandhat]

we'll if I we're you I would proceed to do a compression test on each cylinder

 

[itwonder]

I think you've gotten a drop of oil in the coolant at some point and it's circulating around in there. It is difficult to flush that out. I would not worry about it, keep driving, and monitor for signs of change.

 

[Toolman]

What St Louis said. Don't throw money at a problem until it is a problem. I would do a coolant flush, change your oil and check for any signs of coolant, and monitor the car for any problems.

 

[AREA 91]

What St Louis said. Don't throw money at a problem until it is a problem. I would do a coolant flush, change your oil and check for any signs of coolant, and monitor the car for any problems.

Cosigned!!!

 

[Lorenr]

With lots of miles

That is lot of miles. However, it sounds as though you have done a pretty good job of taking care of the car so if there really are gasket issues it may be time for some major maintenance.

By the way I bought my 89 in 1990 and agree with you. I can afford to drive almost any car, but when people see that "old Taurus" they get out of the way. My wife is forced to drive the new ones and it seems people aim to hit you for the insurance money.

When mine has that many miles, I'll probably do a complete rebuild or look for a fairly good motor and rebuild it because:

The valves, guides and seals need an R & R.
The cylinder rings need to be replaced because the new designs are superior and won't leak as readily.
I'd probably opt for a 3.2
I'd do a complete upper and front 60 and 120 K maintenance.

R&R the clutch

get out of the way.

 

[HootUSMC]

I would just send my used oil into Blackstone, you'll get your answer there.

 

[Marccus]

we'll if I we're you I would proceed to do a compression test on each cylinder

Good point.

I have to do that sooner or later; better sooner than later.
First, I have to find out HOW to do this!!

Thanks

 

[HootUSMC]

If you send your oil to Blackstone they can tell what is what in you Engine. I would do that first, it is only $20 and it takes no time. If you choose to do work before you know what whats have a blast.

 

[Marccus]

I think you've gotten a drop of oil in the coolant at some point and it's circulating around in there. It is difficult to flush that out. I would not worry about it, keep driving, and monitor for signs of change.

Uh-Oh.

You may be right.

I just recently (before I noticed the oil) installed a new coolant eye (a non-obstructing coolant filter designed by John Deere for their tractors. EVERYONE should put this in their coolant system. I'll post some photos.)

I usuallly grease the inlet of the hoses with dielectric grease so I can insert the barbed fitting of the coolant eye into the hose.

This time I had no grease readiuly available so I used some 10W-30 engine oil.

But I hardly used any; I just wet the surface of the interior walls of the hose.

But maybe it was enough.

Thanks for jogging my brain.

 

[Marccus]

If you send your oil to Blackstone they can tell what is what in you Engine. I would do that first, it is only $20 and it takes no time. If you choose to do work before you know what whats have a blast.

But this assumes it is OK to have oil the coolant, but not OK to have coolant iin the oil as far as operating the engine.


Is this assumption correct if the oil in the coolant is not substantial??

I sent my oil into a oil testing service in Houston (I forget the name now), when I first bought the car to get a baseline on the engine oil at that time.

I intended to test the oil regularly until it needed changing as would be recommended by the testing service.

So you may not have to change the oil every 3,000 mi. but only when necessary

But this was just much too expensive as compared to just changing the oil.

I still have that report - somewhere. :braincramp:

I'll try to find it or just send the oil to Blackstone.

Thanks. this is a lot better than just replacing things not knowing if there really is a problem.

 

[Marccus]

What St Louis said. Don't throw money at a problem until it is a problem. I would do a coolant flush, change your oil and check for any signs of coolant, and monitor the car for any problems.

Good point - not jumping into things when you don't know the real problem.

 

[Marccus]

By the way I bought my 89 in 1990 and agree with you. I can afford to drive almost any car, but when people see that "old Taurus" they get out of the way. My wife is forced to drive the new ones and it seems people aim to hit you for the insurance money.

When mine has that many miles, I'll probably do a complete rebuild or look for a fairly good motor and rebuild it because:

The valves, guides and seals need an R & R.
The cylinder rings need to be replaced because the new designs are superior and won't leak as readily.
I'd probably opt for a 3.2
I'd do a complete upper and front 60 and 120 K maintenance.

R&R the clutch

get out of the way.

Yeah, but when I look in the mirror I keep asking myself: Why do you still like and keep this car?

Technology has changed a lot in 20 years and engines / transmissions are "better" now.

Manufacturers are now getting over 100 hp per liter out of engines.

The SHO's 75 hp/l was great at that time.

I like your idea of a rebuild or buying a rebuilt.

1. What would be the cost of rebuilding the existing engine, just for parts, if I do it myself?

2. What would be the cost of purchasing a REBUILT 3.2 or 3.0.

I guess there must be dedicated SHO owners who are building and reselling engines.

Not to place blame or show any lack of confidence, but can you completely trust a purchased rebuilt engine for longevity.

If you rebuild it yourself - then you can only blame yourself if something goes wrong!!!

Rebuilld engine manufacturers, those who sell crate engines, and rebuild engine shops, I believe, do give a warranty (12,000 mi or 1 year???).


Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[HootUSMC]

You are right about engine rebuilds or used, you can't trust it. My buddy Just had his LT1 done, turned it into a 383, cams tune the whole nine. The rebuild lasted 10k, he had it sitting for a while (his toy) and it blew up on him when he started it. He never beat on it.