No Start, No Spark, No Codes...

[multishowner]

Good day all,

I just got back from playing in the sand overseas for the past year... I came back to my 98 SHO not wanting to start... My wife and Dad-in-law nearly killed the battery trying to start it, so they unhooked the battery and let it sit until my return. So, now I have no codes and no spark... Fuel pressure is good, and I even did the ether test to verify the problem isn't with the injectors not firing...

OK, my question to all you guru's out there... How do I get the computer to check all the engine componets without it running? OR Can I do that test to each componet with my multimeter? I suspect (oddly, my wife agrees) that it is either the Cam PS or Crank PS... Could it be something else?

Thanks all!!

Cheers!
Bill

 

[SHODWN]

How long has it say without a battery?

 

[stephen newberg]

Sounds like for many months, Kirk.

pax, smn

 

[SHOZ123]

It's not the cam sensor.

 

[me6894]

are you sure the battery isnt dead?

does it try to crank or does it click or does it not do anything

 

[ThatShoGuy]

what about the pcm fuse.. if it will crank but not start.. and has no spark i would think it could be this fuse

wouldnt hurt to check ... its in the under hood fuse box.. its a 30amp mega fuse..

 

[multishowner]

The battery is good... I will check that fuse tomorrow... It does everything normal except fire up and run... all the gauges work... all the windows, door locks, mirrors, radio, and sunroof work...

OK, the whole story is... About the end of May, the little lady went for a ride to keep the battery charged up. During this trip, one of the door ajar switches must have gotten stuck keeping the interior lights on... Even after the car was shut off, and the lock button on the remote was pushed, the lights still stayed on (she did checked the switch)... So, instead of killing the battery with the interior lights, she pulled the cables... a week or so later, she hooked up the cables and tried to restart it... No start, but everything worked like normal... Even the door ajar switch worked again... fried PCM?

AND... While I was away, we kinda let my mom-in-law use the car "for a few weeks" that turned into seven bloody months... So, I get the car back with two nice size creases in the left rear door, one on the left fender, and she killed the right front wheel, tire, and bearing when she hit a curb... She also had problems with it not wanting to start from time to time... maybe four or five times during the seven months...

Paul, why not the cam sensor? Think it could be the PCM or crank sensor? Any way to test them?? I hooked up the reader, and I got the all clear, no codes... Doesn't that mean the PCM is still working and the 30 Amp fuse is good?

Thanks for all the help guys and gals!!

Cheers!!

 

[me6894]

does it try to crank? if it was the pcm fuse i think there would be alot more stuff not working

can you hear the fuel pump turn on?

also make sure no wires got ripped out from the battery to the starter, or the ground wires

 

[SHOZ123]

The cam sensor is only for quick starting. If bad the PCM will sooner or later fire the motor up.

Two things to check with the car in park and the key in run.

Make sure there is 5V at the TPS sensor.

There should be 4-5V on pin 64 or the PCM connector. You can back probe the connector and check it with a voltmeter. It is near the center of the connector and a Light Blue and Yellow wire.

 

[chrome_rust]

I remember on my 1992 Cutlass Supreme Convertible, when i went to the Army during Basic Training it sat all summer with a dead battery. When i got home it would not fire, i had to jump the ALDL connector like i was trying to read the codes to make it run. After that it was fine. I know it is OBD1 and a GM product, but i am just giving ideas....

Try hooking a scantool to it and see if it reads anything from the PCM

 

[multishowner]

does it try to crank? if it was the pcm fuse i think there would be alot more stuff not working

can you hear the fuel pump turn on?

also make sure no wires got ripped out from the battery to the starter, or the ground wires

It does crank and I agree about the PCM fuse... I'll check the wires and grounds...

Thanks much!!

 

[multishowner]

The cam sensor is only for quick starting. If bad the PCM will sooner or later fire the motor up.

Two things to check with the car in park and the key in run.

Make sure there is 5V at the TPS sensor.

There should be 4-5V on pin 64 or the PCM connector. You can back probe the connector and check it with a voltmeter. It is near the center of the connector and a Light Blue and Yellow wire.

Well, I learned something today... THANKS!!

What is Pin 64? I'll go check those ASAP...

Thanks much!!

 

[multishowner]

Good day all...

OK, it seems I have a serious problem!!!

I went out to check the voltages and what-have-ya, and well... Yep, it started right up!! The only thing I did was pull some of the big fuses to make sure all were good in the engine bay, and swapped some like relays... I also put it in "N" to start it... Just to be weird, I put it back in Park, and re-started it... All works!! So, my huge problem is that it can not start for me at any given time... That is worse than having it sit with flat tires...

Thanks for all the help guys and gals!!

Cheers!!

 

[SHOZ123]

Pin 64 is the signal from the TRS to the PCM that tells the PCM the tranny is in park. This then will allow for spark and fuel.

The TRS sensor is know to cause problems. It has three outputs in it so it may crank and not fire.

 

[hawkeye18]

I hate that sensor. It's causing a random no-start in my 94 as well. Only in Gen2s it's called the MLPS. If it's not calibrated just right, it will cause all sorts of problems. Such as: My reverse lights will come on if shifting out of park, but they will not come on if shifting from neutral. Neat, huh?

 

[SHOZ123]

Or the car will start in reverse.......

 

[multishowner]

Pin 64 is the signal from the TRS to the PCM that tells the PCM the tranny is in park. This then will allow for spark and fuel.

The TRS sensor is know to cause problems. It has three outputs in it so it may crank and not fire.

THANKS!!! You know your stuff Paul!! That is why I love this Forum!! You can't teach experience, and sometimes you just have to find it... This makes two things I have learned today, and I am totally exhausted!!

I owe you one Paul!! Thanks so much!!

Cheers all!!

Bill

 

[multishowner]

OK, it is doing it again Paul... Do you have a picture of the pin-out for the TRS and the PCM? What do you suspect if I have the 4-5 volts at pin 64? I tried "N" also, but nothing... I'd figure if "P" was bad, "N" would still work... I guess I could figure out why if I get the pin-outs... I am tempted to pull the TRS and just replace it...
Thanks!!!
Cheers!!

 

[SHOZ123]

4-5 volts at pin 64 is what you want when the car is in park.

 

[multishowner]

4-5 volts at pin 64 is what you want when the car is in park.

Is it possible to get the wire info to look at coming from the TRS? It is a bit easier to access than the PCM... Is it still the light blue with yellow? There is one of those there...

Thanks much Paul!!

Cheers!!