No compression

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trainguy1989

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I did a 3.2 MTX swap. I checked all the timing, which is correct. Spark plugs are tight, I have fuel, air and spark. I put my beaker bar on the crank and turned by it by hand with little effort. To compare I put I put the beaker bar on my old 3.0 and tried to crank it by hand and it was near impossible. What could lead to no compression? No oil in the cylinders? I have cranked with the gas pedal to the floor to keep the car from injecting fuel. When I let the starter crank it it cranks very fast. Engine has not been started for about 6 months.
 

rubydist

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I'm going to go with "sticky rings from sitting".

My experience is that perfectly good SHO motors that sit for months end up with the rings sticking in place, which results in poor compression. The good news is that usually running it for a while gets them loosened up again. You may need some AutoRx to help get them freed up, or just running it may do the trick.
 

trainguy1989

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I just got off the phone with the PO of the engine and he said after he swapped over the 3.0 cams he did a valve lash adjustment and used a breaker bar on the crank to rotate the engine. Said he had to use a lot of effort rotate it until the valve open or closed. I have no reason not to trust the PO has always be honest with me, is a forum member, and has rebuilt several engines successfully. I remember it having compression when I put the flywheel on, because it was also pretty hard to rotate. Guess I will look into the timing. Just weird because it had compression and now it does not. Maybe a 24 stuck valves or no oil in the cylinders to seal it up.
 

trainguy1989

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I'm going to go with "sticky rings from sitting".

My experience is that perfectly good SHO motors that sit for months end up with the rings sticking in place, which results in poor compression. The good news is that usually running it for a while gets them loosened up again. You may need some AutoRx to help get them freed up, or just running it may do the trick.

I can't get it running because it has no compression, should I pour oil in each cylinder?
 

rubydist

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it doesn't take much compression to get them to start and idle, so now I'm starting to think that the cam timing is suspect, like the others have suggested.
 

tompumped

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He checked the belt, its good. I'm talking at the chains now.

I didn't realize you were talking chains. More than once i've seen people say their valve timing is good and it wasn't. I don't know, but from the explanation it sounds to be the timing belt end, or both chains are off?

My teacher told us about using marvel mystery oil in an MG for the same purpose. Atf should be fine too
 

trainguy1989

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I put a little less than a cup of atf in each cylinder and now this motor has so much compression I have to use a fence post to turn the crank. Weird.
 

Ishodu

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What ever u do don't try and crank it over with that much oil in there!!!
Half a cup will be enough to hydro lock it. A table spoon should have been plenty. Your going to need to get most of that oil out of there.
 

trainguy1989

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I feel like an idiot. I pumped all the atf out of the cylinders. Then I started the engine. It ran horribly. It shook and back fired several times(POW).
 

trainguy1989

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How much was in there? Oh yeah, have you tried everything suggested? If you haven't, stop posting.

I drained all the atf out and she has stopped smoking but the engine backfires pretty bad and I am getting a tick in the rear bank valve cover. Timing must be off. Could fouling spark plugs cause the engine to backfire?
 

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