luigisho
SHO Member
Printed circuit boad to the bulb can fail, but that is way more rare than a computer on the fritz. Especially if you get an obdI test light on the eec test jumpers.
No codes, no check engine light, even on start up
- Thread starter Brackneyc
- Start date
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Didn’t get a light at the eec with the test light either. only thing I get with a jumper is the fan kicking in for a second or two.
I checked all plug ins under the hood, nothing seems out of place, and everything is secured.
I’m baffled.
May be time for a part out.
luigisho
SHO Member
Well there are blinking test lights that flash like the dash light but under the hood. I would look at the computer and see if you can find a used replacement for a fair price. Try SV&HOdan on this forum. He usually has a car or two that he's parting out.
Have you checked the computer and see if there is a big performance chip plugged into it? If you get the stuff out of the glove box, look for the protruding end that go into slots and push the sides in to drop the box down, you can look at the end of the pcm that has a port where a chip could be plugged in.
Have you checked the computer and see if there is a big performance chip plugged into it? If you get the stuff out of the glove box, look for the protruding end that go into slots and push the sides in to drop the box down, you can look at the end of the pcm that has a port where a chip could be plugged in.
I will check that next. I’ll contact the guy here and see what he has. Thank you. Much appreciated.
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BaySHO Performance
SHO Member
Re: car dying, it IS acting up as if the WP is leaking on to the CPS. You won't see any coolant on the ground because the leak only has to be very slight.
There are two holes in the water pump shaft. You can see the one on the top. There's also one at the bottom. This is where WPs leak. Try to use a mirror or USB borescope to take a close look at that hole. You will probably need to lever the CPS harness out of the way. If it has been leaking, you will see a trail of gunk that came out of the hole. It may be black or brown.
If the CPS has shorted out, one would think that, because the car started again, the CPS will be OK with a new WP. I've twice tried that with a compromised CPS, only to have the car die once fully warmed up. So the damage seems to be permanent. However, I have a theory that some moisture may still be trapped inside, and something like a hair dryer may fix them.
New CPSs are currently unavailable, although we are in discussions with Standard Ignition to do a run of their PC17s. They may now be available: the best bet is to contact them direct.
And no, the PC10 for a Ford Ranger won't work as it expects two vanes on the reluctor. Ours have one.
Then of course there's the CEL light.....
There are two holes in the water pump shaft. You can see the one on the top. There's also one at the bottom. This is where WPs leak. Try to use a mirror or USB borescope to take a close look at that hole. You will probably need to lever the CPS harness out of the way. If it has been leaking, you will see a trail of gunk that came out of the hole. It may be black or brown.
If the CPS has shorted out, one would think that, because the car started again, the CPS will be OK with a new WP. I've twice tried that with a compromised CPS, only to have the car die once fully warmed up. So the damage seems to be permanent. However, I have a theory that some moisture may still be trapped inside, and something like a hair dryer may fix them.
New CPSs are currently unavailable, although we are in discussions with Standard Ignition to do a run of their PC17s. They may now be available: the best bet is to contact them direct.
And no, the PC10 for a Ford Ranger won't work as it expects two vanes on the reluctor. Ours have one.
Then of course there's the CEL light.....
FastCAD
SHO Member
It sounds like your ECU is not home.
Rockauto is listing re-man. ECU's.
If you order, pull your unit and match the part# listed on the tape on the unit. If you can verify that the unit is the correct unit "even better".
Note: having a known good back-up has saved me a lot of guessing and grief.
luigisho
SHO Member
Always good to have an extra pcm and ccrm around
I just swapped in a known to be good pcm, and no changes. Still no codes, no light, no nothing.
CCRM was also swapped. No changes.
I’m just not sure what to do next. Don’t trust it to drive it. No real idea what to do next. Not going to throw money at it.
Thoughts.
BaySHO Performance
SHO Member
Have you checked the WP as I suggested? Sounds like the CE problem is in the wiring. I'll take a look at my '94 Helms to see if there are any wires you can check.
I got as close a look as I could without tearing it down. That will likely be my next step, since nothing else jumps out at me.
I had a CEL light issue. Ended up being a combination of a bad ECU and an LPM that wouldn't let it read codes even with the code reader. I swapped ECUs and pulled out the LPM and my dash light and code reader started working. You dont have anything plugged into the back of the ECU by chance do you?
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