Newly Built SHO motors and boost

[Sho-N-Go]

a "newly built SHO motor" is engineered for boost too...whats your point? and besides...other than low compression pistons and oil squirters the SRT4 motor is exactly the same as the NA PT cruiser motor so its not any more "engineered" for boost than my foot is or any other NA motor, my point though is simply that boost help creates load so break it in under boost(unless your have a $3000 S/C, then its not worth the risk of getting metal shavings in it

Could you explain how exactly metal shavings could get into a S/C?

 

[SHOMurph]

a "newly built SHO motor" is engineered for boost too...whats your point? and besides...other than low compression pistons and oil squirters the SRT4 motor is exactly the same as the NA PT cruiser motor so its not any more "engineered" for boost than my foot is or any other NA motor, my point though is simply that boost help creates load so break it in under boost(unless your have a $3000 S/C, then its not worth the risk of getting metal shavings in it

what do you mean a newly built SHO motor is engineered for boost?

Yes you can run a stock motor with boost. I did and would have for a long time except for a tuning malfunction.

But if you are going to safely engineer a SHO motor for boost...forged pistons and gapless rings is a good bet to compliment the forged rods and crank.

 

[wicked93gs]

Could you explain how exactly metal shavings could get into a S/C?

err, your right, I keep thinking turbo(I'm rather a turbo freak) I keep thinking exhaust gas, I know you can rebuild a SHO motor stock....but considering the expense of an SHO rebuild, as compared to say my neon, most people build them with forged internals, even stock though the motor can take a good slug of boost, up to what most boosted cars run stock(though only w/ careful tuning)

 

[NJSHO]

I have heard that people who take their new EVO's into the red before the break in period is over have oil consumption problems. Thoes who obey the break in limit dont have the problems. Just a little tid bit.

 

[K-Dawg]

I've always been told that the type of rings used dictate whether or not an engine can be broken in under boost.

 

[sho_sc]

I've always been told that the type of rings used dictate whether or not an engine can be broken in under boost.

Yes, that and what kind of honing bore finish that was used ...

 

[SHOblime]

FWIW ::: proper break in has less to do with whether the car is forced induction or not, it's more like whether the forced induction is tuned correctly. 500 or 1000 mile break in with turbocharger is no problem, keep it below 5k RPM don't accelerate fast...as long as it's properly tuned, there won't be any life lost from the turbo or engine. You definitely wouldn't want to do any "high speed testing" with 0 miles on an N/A or F/I car....

 

[Patrick Norris]

I have heard that people who take their new EVO's into the red before the break in period is over have oil consumption problems. Thoes who obey the break in limit dont have the problems. Just a little tid bit.

I heard that was a huge problem with the first couple of years of Vipers. Dodge recommended some insane 3000 mile break in with no harsh driving. Now how many new Viper owners do you think followed that? But there are tons of issues caused by it most requiring complete engine rebuilds I think.

As for break in with boost. Out of all the sc or turbo shos how many were on the motor from new? Probably Zero so breaking in with boost or not doesn't really matter. You will still tear out 3rd gear

 

[SHOMurph]

As for break in with boost. Out of all the sc or turbo shos how many were on the motor from new? Probably Zero so breaking in with boost or not doesn't really matter. You will still tear out 3rd gear

My 3.0L got 500 easy miles before boost.

yeah I might blow out 3rd gear.....but its worth it!!!

 

[qiksho]

The last motor I rebuild had 130k on it and was drinking a quart of oil every 100 miles. I bought the car for $200 it was a 1990 plymouth acclaim 2.5L

Anyway I rebuild the engine after I drove it enough to figure out if it was worth rebuilding. Now I did not do a full rebuild, I put all new bearings in the lower end, New rings, re-hatched the cylinders, had the head milled and the valve seating surfaces redone.

Now when I broke that engine in I was up and down the rpm range ALOT. I also heat cycled it many times. AFter about 300 miles I started going higher with the RPM's, although I never mashed the gas to the floor. I brought it up close to redline a few times bringing the rpms up slow and steady. Like stated before I always heard the "biggest" thing was not to go for extended periods of time at a constant rpm/speed.

Now that engine has about 50k on it, and uses NO oil. In fact the oil is not only full, but pretty clean. Now I am not a genius, but I think the break in I gave this car must have been pretty good.