New to the SHO fam, now lets rip its heart out.

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SHO-moco

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Here is the inside of the PTU. About 50k on this PTU. A little bit of sludge but the gears and bearings are all clean and show no signs of wear and tear. Will clean it all up, drill a drain, and re-assemble.
 

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yaycandy

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Here is the inside of the PTU. About 50k on this PTU. A little bit of sludge but the gears and bearings are all clean and show no signs of wear and tear. Will clean it all up, drill a drain, and re-assemble.
I would replace the bearings to the newest revision. You took apart a ptu without asking how. You have more ability then 85% of the community, change them over just to be safe.
 

SHO-moco

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I would replace the bearings to the newest revision. You took apart a ptu without asking how. You have more ability then 85% of the community, change them over just to be safe.
Do you know when the newest revision was made off the top of your head? this PTU is out of a 2016 explorer.
 

SHO-moco

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Just to keep this updated. I got the second motor. This one does have slightly more mileage at 110k but the pickings were getting slim. This is confirmed out of a 2014 police interceptor. Stripped it down and have deemed it usable. Ordered a crap ton of parts so now waiting on them all to come in. Will drill that PTU drain plug early next week, get it cleaned up and reassembled. I will post up some pics once that's situated.
 

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SHO-moco

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Ok, new conundrum.... I clean up the PTU, drill it out for drain plug, reassemble the unit. When I go to turn the output shaft on it it is tight. Too tight? I don't know. It turns and gets a bit easier once working in some fresh fluid, but still tighter then others I have encountered on other vehicles. Is this by design, I cant say, but there really isn't anything inside the case to "forget" to put back in or line up. There is 1 washer that you have to make sure is in there (which I did) but other then that it only fits together one way.

So my concerns for how tight it feels lead me to search the forums for anyone talking about rebuilding these PTU's. And what little gem did you find this time ShoMoCo you ask? Well I went down the dorman replacement PTU rabbit hole. Reading different threads all basically saying the same thing "Dorman product is for naturally asperated only". There is even a response from dorman posted that says the gear teeth depths are different on the turbocharged vehicles vs the NA. Well here is my issue, carpart does not seem to think that that there is a difference in PTU's. When searching a turbo charged gen 4 SHO they show a ton of PTU's from explorers, taurus's, and flex's both from NA and Turboed vehicles. So I run the VIN of the vehicle the PTU I got came out of...Came out of a 2016 Explorer that was naturally asperated. So now I am leaning towards I may have issues beyond the tight feeling of this PTU. Like maybe this PTU wont work properly at all in an SHO? Seems kind of suspect to me, but what do I know. Dorman makes a business out of knowing these things.

Any thoughts, input, knowledge would be appreciated.
 

Ta2dResqr

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Not much experience here but a quick look at Tasca shows that there are 2 PTUs listed for 2013-2019. It does not tell what the difference is. It also says both will fit the 2015 SHO. There is also only one picture of each. I would have to guess it is a cooler and non-cooler PTU. That being said, both of them are listed for the 3.5 gas, 3.5 flex, 3.7 gas, and 3.7 flex. As far as I know, none of the turbo applications for 2013-2019 3.5 are flex. It also directly lists the SHO and the SE models. This would lead me to believe that the PTU will work in turbo or NA applications.
 

SHO-moco

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Not much experience here but a quick look at Tasca shows that there are 2 PTUs listed for 2013-2019. It does not tell what the difference is. It also says both will fit the 2015 SHO. There is also only one picture of each. I would have to guess it is a cooler and non-cooler PTU. That being said, both of them are listed for the 3.5 gas, 3.5 flex, 3.7 gas, and 3.7 flex. As far as I know, none of the turbo applications for 2013-2019 3.5 are flex. It also directly lists the SHO and the SE models. This would lead me to believe that the PTU will work in turbo or NA applications.

Thanks for the feedback. Yea I kind of came to the same conclusion. Decided I'm just going to run it and hope all's good. I got the tightness situation resolved, just need to order some new seals for it then will do final assembly. The drain plug is installed and leak free so that's a plus.
 

SHO-moco

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Ok, still moving along over here in between work things. Have the timing set with phasers replaced along with the water pump and Mellings HV oil pump. Including some pics of that but have since gotten the oil pan, front cover, and rear main seal retainer plate all sealed back up. (replaced both crank seals while I had this all apart.) Have the fuel rails back in and all those damn zip ties in place lol. So making some progress, with LOTS left to do. Also including some pics of the PTU drain plug from the inside of the case.
 

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SHO-moco

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Just to keep this updated: The engine is all back together and wired up minus the right side turbo. Opened up the cartridge's and was comparing them and really didn't see any difference between them. After some study and talking with the manufacturer it was decided I ended up with 2 Left turbo cartridges. So I sent the miss-boxed one back off to them and the new replacement is on its way. Once I get that I can button up the rest of the engine work that will be done while its on the stand.

Finished reassembly of the PTU. All new seals, drilled and tapped for the drain plug. While waiting for this turbo I will be moving on to prepping the used transmission. Basically just draining it and the torque converter. Once I get the tone ring off the old motor and onto the new one then I can get the trans and engine bolted together. My goal is to get everything back together and staged the same as everything was when it came out. Then I can just lower the car down on top of it and drive away... right? lol
 

SHO-moco

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Everything is back in the car. Tomorrow is the day that I will start it up and see if it was all for not lol.
 

Zpak

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Well the oil cooler can be added. Need the lower rad hose to plumb into it. Pistons are the same. Just the top ring is hardened so they dont grow when the oil is cold and car is floored. Cops dont care if the car is cold, they start it and stomp it. Need the engine to survive so they hardened the top ring so it wont grow a much over temp which is how my non pp engine blew. Top ring butted and shredded the walls. I have a pp oil cooler new in box from ford if you need it. Usually the engines wont come with it unless its a used engine. I had a new pp engine. From my understanding back in 2018 when i blew my non pp engine is that a pp engine has metal valve covers. Black plastic ones indicate a non pp engine.
My 2014 non PP had aluminum valve covers.
 

SHO-moco

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My 2014 non PP had aluminum valve covers.
Yes 2015 the plastic valve covers started. Had nothing to do with PP or non PP. Was just an update to the PCV system I believe, but dont hold me to that. Could have just come down to cost and wanting to save it.
 

SHO-moco

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She's alive!! Started up nice and smooth, no smoke, good oil pressure. Needed to button up a few more things before I run it up to temp. Also need to try to figure out this FORScan stuff so I can get the replacement transmissions solenoid logic into the computer.
 

Texas Marauder

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Tip on FORScan. Make sure you are connected to the internet as the solenoid strategy will likely have to be downloaded from somewhere (Ford, FORScan, I don't know).
 
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