New SHO owner with a question or two..

[MusPuppis]

Howdy folks,

I have just recently purchased a 93 SHO (5 speed). I wont take posession of the vehicle for a little while though, week or so. Waiting on the new title to my truck to get here so I can trade it in. Deal is done though.

I have a couple questions for you folks if you dont mind though. The car has two problems I'll have to address. Well, possibly three, one may be related to the other, it may not. One question belongs in this section one doesnt exactly, but I figure its best to include it here instead of making a whole different post.

Problem one: Clutch. or shift cable. It slips and it jerks pretty hard when you shift at higher RPM. I'll figure out which it is this weekend - but my question is.. Assuming its the clutch, how difficult a job am I looking at? Is this one of those "pull the engine" deals, or do I just have to drop the cradle and support the engine somehow? Mechanical knowledge isnt a problem, nor is space or tools. Money is somewhat an issue (I can afford the clutch, plate and throw-out due to a small level miracle, lol).

Problem two/three: This is the one I'm a little concerned about. The car drives really well at normal throttle and RPM's below about 4-5-ish. However, if you get on it the car sorta falls on its face in the higher RPM and at WOT it goes limp. Above about 4500 or so you can just feel the power die off. Not always, sometimes it'll hold ok, most of the time it feels dead. Secondaries? I'm unfamiliar with these engines.. How would I go about checking to see if they arent functioning properly. And the WOT problem.. At 3/4 throttle it feels great (assuming the the previous problem isnt occuring, lol) but as soon as you depress the peddle fully and hit WOT it hits a wall and wont accellerate at all. I kinda holds speed but it wont accell or rev at all.

I'm about positive both those problems are sensor related.. Perhaps whatever sensor controls the secondaries and the TPS maybe? I have a very slight (2-300RPM) surge at idle and the car is pig rich on startup and doesnt want to rev. I did some searching and found out how to pull my codes, which turned out to be the same as how I got em off my truck. I'll pull them as soon as I can get my hands on the car but I wanted to see if I could bounce the problems off you all and see what you thought? I'll post the codes I get when I run em, but I'm just looking for preliminary guesses really. Something to give me a little direction while I mull this over.

Here it is.. 173k miles and running pretty strong other than the issues listed above. Good shape inside and out (for its age and mileage). Sadly the guy I'm getting it from cant get ahold the poeple he got it from so I have no idea as to its maintanance history. I've been reading up and whenever I can afford it I think I'll do the front and back 60k maintance stuff - just to be on the safe side.

Glad to be on the board.

 

[Dan H]

Idle surging and rich could be a dirty MAF or dirty IAC.

Loss of power at higher rpms sounds like your secondaries are not opening.

The clutch job can be done a number of ways; including droping the entire subframe, or supporting the engine from the top and accessing the trans through the bottom or the drivers side wheel well. It is very time consuming, and if you have it done will be very expensive.

Get a clutch from either Midwestsho, or SHOnut Performance; they will treat you right and have a good price. I would recommend the Clutchmasters stage 1 or the Fibertuff. I also highly recommend the ceramic TOB from shonut. SHOnut has a good instructional video on clutch replacement.

 

[omeara7]

you could have a vaccum leak which is preventing the secondaries from opening....check the hoses going to the secondary-acuators

 

[ManySHOs]

To change the clutch, the engine should be supported from above, the engine cradle (we usually call it the subframe) removed which leaves the transmission free to be unbolted and removed. I would recommend changing motor mounts and subframe bushings at this point. Aluminum "bushings" are available that will firm up handling quite a bit.

re: your falling off at higher rpms. It could be fuel related. Do you have access to a fuel pressure gauge? How does the pump sound when you turn the key to run and it primes? Strong? Loud? You may need a new pump and filter.

If so, get a 155lph Walbro from www.apeusa.com.

Glad to have you on board.

Ian

 

[ManySHOs]

PS - the secondaries are naturally always open. They remain closed under vaccum. If there is a problem with them, they are most likely open all the time which would cause the car to run like a dog on the lower end but pull strong up top. It's not too common to hear of SHO's with secondaries stuck shut.

You should hear a change of sound (louder) around 4,000 rpm while on the gas hard (WOT-wide open throttle) if they are functioning properly.

Ian

 

[F-22 Raptor SHO]

easy to check the secondaries are functioning simply by revving the (prewarmed up) engine past 4k while under the hood. You should see the secondaries open and close.

I did my first FWD clutch ever last year with SHONUT's video, it was ez pzy japanesy.

 

[oh_SHO]

If you do drop the sub-frame to do the clutch I would also check out the power-steering rack. Really easy to change with sub-frame out. PIA otherwise. I know my car needs one but its waiting 'till the clutch goes...

 

[MusPuppis]

Thanks for the replys folks.

When I do the clutch I think I'm just gonna bring it into my school's shop. I'm in school for auto body but we have a pretty loose program here and my teacher said he didnt give a shyte if I brought it in and worked on it here, lol. Will be a little easier than in my garage at home. I'll check out SHOnut and see about that video and the clutchs recommended. I have a friend who works at a Ford dealership who can get me the disc/plate/bearing for about 300$, OEM which is looking to be the limit of my budget for it. I'll see what the recommended clutchs will run me.

does the pump sound when you turn the key to run and it primes?

Loud and noticeable. It has a pretty audible, kinda "brrrrrrrrr" sound when I turn the key on. I hope the power is something as simple as the secondaries sticking shut or not getting vaccuum or somesuch. I have a pretty limited budget to get the SHO road worthy and kicking ass (stock level asskicking that is) and if I have to drop 100+ on a pump cash is gonna start running lean on me, lol.

I'll check those secondaries as mentioned and let you all know how it turns out. I'll also most likely have a post in a week or so with whatever codes the ECU throws.. and I know its gonna - lol. As a matter of fact, when I test drove the car originaly the CE light popped on, went off when I turned it off, came on again, then went away after a restart and hasnt been back since.. Though the drive hasnt improved a lick.

I had hoped to have enough left after the fixes to put the car into the shop here and start getting it ready for a re-spray.. Was thinking some kinda metallic silver.. Hmm.. =]

Welp, thanks a ton folks, updates to follow.

 

[Dan H]

Don't put an OEM clutch in.

The PP straps and TOB are both weak and will give you problems early.

The Clutchmasters Stage 1 or SHOnut Fibertuff are far superior for not much more $$. The HD PP and Ceramic TOB will give you much longer clutch life and reliability.

I have sent you a PM regarding the clutch.

 

[MusPuppis]

Quick update;

Havent had a chance to grab the codes.. Had to drop my truck off to him the yesterday and only got a few minutes to tinker.

The secondarys dont seem to be opening. When the engine is off, their open as their supposed to be, when the engine is started they pop closed like their supposed to be. So, I let it idle for a minute or two to get it oiled and a little warmed up - then had a bud rev it above 4k three or four times, the secondarys didnt budge. Stayed closed the whole time. I checked the vac lines and they all seem to be intact and not leaking. The sensor itself perhaps?

Will get codes ASAP.

 

[PaulRuffo]

FYI, I have had no problems with OEM clutches in my car. I replaced the original at 65K miles, next one at 155K miles and at 205K miles it's still fine. Just my experience. I dont beat the snot out of the car, but I do drive it.

 

[pete315]

get the ceramic TOB. my factory clutch with 160k finally went. when we took it apart, there was still meat on the clutch disc however the factory TOB was destroyed, got hung up in there which broke off several fingers on the PP. also check if your clutch pedal adjustment mechanism under dash is working properly. my clutch with all upgraded parts and labor was about $900. it's expensive but still less than rebuilding an auto tranny. good luck with the car.

 

[MusPuppis]

I'm still weighing my options on the clutch. I was pointed to a very nice clutch kit for about 350$ that I'm leaning heavily towards, provided I can find the extra funds. I can swing the 350 I think - but with shipping its a toss-up.

I may end up with an OEM clutch due simply to cost. Really, I dont intend on beating the car to death. Occasional goofing off and spirited throttle and once in a great while I do intend to embarass the random idiots with 7 foot wings and exhaust notes falling in the upper treble frequencies but really, I just want a great car for a DD.

I have this little project on the side for my "toy". '73 Fairlady, when shes done it'll be a fully resto-modded street car putting down (hopefully) flat 12's, 11.8-9's and be just as comfortable on an Auto-X course as a drag strip. Lotta work left to be done though.. year and a half, maybe two.

Fairlady Build.

 

[Redskull]

those secondaries are vacuum operated, but electrically controlled from a solenoid thats mounted on the back of the intake....pop off the connecter and test the wires going into it for voltage changes when you rev the engine...

a defective/dirty/damaged MAF can also provide a whole mess of power issues throughout the whole range