New clutch ideas?

[Night Runner]

Ok so I drove my SHO for the first time and that clutch pedal self adjuster got the best of my clutch fixed that issue and my clutch gave out and is GONE. I’m stuck with the issue of being 16 a good-ish job and not enough money. Anyone got an idea on a clutch that is cheap but isn’t going to be an outright bad clutch. I’ve seen the SHOsource clutches and I’m fine spending that much if I need to. I know I’m stupid I deserve it.

 

[Irish Pride]

Stock "Power Torque(Sachs)" clutch from O'Reillys. Just under $200 last time I looked. I have one in all my SHOs that I've had to do a Clutch. Stock clutch is perfectly fine for even a heavily modded SHO. Don't waste your money on a Stage 1, 2, 3, blah blah blah. I had a well known brand Stage 1 clutch one time and I hated it. Pedal was too stiff and I didn't even get 20K out of it before I needed another clutch. I will suggest installing the SHOSource billet flywheel when you do the clutch. The SS flywheel is awesome. Way better feel than stock.

My 2¢ anyway.

-Chad

 

[sperold]

^^^^This !
I have seen them on sale on RockAuto for as low as $125.00, but you have to wait for that deal, and it is usually not around when you need it.

Make sure you get the 9 3/4 clutch kit, not the 9 1/4 kit.

Don't be too concerned by the brand name of the kit, my last one was RhinoPac and it was fine.

All clutch kits are copies of the original Valeo model, so they are all very similar, the Valeo has 4 disc springs and the others have 6 springs, but they all work well.

If you can do the work yourself, that is a money saver, and there is a video through ShoNut Performance.

Start soaking your subframe bolts and exhaust stud nuts with penetrating oil.

If you farm the job out, the very least the swap will cost is $600.00 if everything goes well and you took it to a shop that has done it before.

If you take it to a shop that has never done one before, the price will be astronomical.

A farmed out job will probably be $1000.00 as it never t0tally goes well, but is very rewarding and will last hundreds of thousand miles if not abused.

Every SHO that I have bought needed a clutch soon after the purchase, so you are not alone.

 

[luigisho]

Agree with above. Get valeo or sachs kits. Shop around for price. Rock auto isn't bad as long as you don't get a mistake and have to send it back and lose time.

 

[Night Runner]

Thanks guys I asked my step-dad and he said the same thing you guys are saying thanks for the help and clarification.

 

[Night Runner]

Stock "Power Torque(Sachs)" clutch from O'Reillys. Just under $200 last time I looked. I have one in all my SHOs that I've had to do a Clutch. Stock clutch is perfectly fine for even a heavily modded SHO. Don't waste your money on a Stage 1, 2, 3, blah blah blah. I had a well known brand Stage 1 clutch one time and I hated it. Pedal was too stiff and I didn't even get 20K out of it before I needed another clutch. I will suggest installing the SHOSource billet flywheel when you do the clutch. The SS flywheel is awesome. Way better feel than stock.

My 2¢ anyway.

-Chad

So I read about the billet flywheel and about how it doesn’t fit just right could you explain that in detail? Please....

 

[Night Runner]

Oh yay I forgot, thank you for not bashing me for ruining the clutch, and for understanding.

 

[Irish Pride]

So I read about the billet flywheel and about how it doesn’t fit just right could you explain that in detail? Please....

Never heard that. Where are you seeing it. I've got the billet flywheel in my 91+ and a 9lbs clutch masters aluminum flywheel in my 89 and I love the billet over the lighter aluminum one.

 

[Night Runner]

Never heard that. Where are you seeing it. I've got the billet flywheel in my 91+ and a 9lbs clutch masters aluminum flywheel in my 89 and I love the billet over the lighter aluminum one.

I saw it on the SHOsource steel billet flywheel for $275 but it doesn’t say fitment issues, more like it’s a tight fit so I think I might have misread it. Oh and when I do redo the clutch anything I should look for or replace before it does go bad?

 

[Irish Pride]

Oh yay I forgot, thank you for not bashing me for ruining the clutch, and for understanding.

Couple years back I was merging on to the interstate and dropped it down into 4th to get up to speed and pass a few slow pokes. Only thing is I missed 4th and hit 2nd instead. It immediately bent 2 PP straps and the whole trans started to cavitate.

 

[Irish Pride]

I saw it on the SHOsource steel billet flywheel for $275 but it doesn’t say fitment issues, more like it’s a tight fit so I think I might have misread it. Oh and when I do redo the clutch anything I should look for or replace before it does go bad?

Replace the axle seals and the shift shaft seal. It's a good idea to replace the clutch fork bushings but not required. Make sure you get the 9 3/4" clutch instead of the older version like previously mentioned. The new clutch kit will probably come with the revised throw out bearing and you'll need to install a Quill sleeve on the input shaft. If the clutch kit comes with the old style bearing and your Trans already has the Quill sleeve installed then the throw out bearing won't fit. The ceramic throw out bearing from SHOnut is a very good upgrade.

 

[sperold]

I would resurface the flywheel that you have, which is your least expensive option ($25 to $50.00).

I found you have to have a heightened level of skill to use the lightweight flywheels. In the morning, and when you are inattentive or tired, you can expect to stall the car when taking off. And usually at the most embarrassing times.
The car is more lively and responsive with the light wheel, but to me it was not worth giving up that no problem launch on a daily use car.

Good luck with your project, get lots of help from your family and friends and double check everything, and oh, it has been reported that sometimes people install the clutch disc backwards, leading to all kinds of issues and another tear apart. It is well marked but things happen when you are working around midnight.

I suggest you take lots of pictures before the work commences and during every stage of disassembly.

It may help to determine if you will need an engine support mechanism at the time that you lower your subframe. Many people have accomplished it without one, but if you decide to use one, Nick Chrimes has a good write up to make one.

If you lower the sub frame and engine too much at the back, you can damage the DIS unit on the front cross over intake pipe when it contacts the strut tower, so have a spotter watch for that.

http://www.wikisho.com/wiki/Engine_Support_Beam

 

[Night Runner]

I would resurface the flywheel that you have, which is your least expensive option ($25 to $50.00).

I found you have to have a heightened level of skill to use the lightweight flywheels. In the morning, and when you are inattentive or tired, you can expect to stall the car when taking off. And usually at the most embarrassing times.
The car is more lively and responsive with the light wheel, but to me it was not worth giving up that no problem launch on a daily use car.

Good luck with your project, get lots of help from your family and friends and double check everything, and oh, it has been reported that sometimes people install the clutch disc backwards, leading to all kinds of issues and another tear apart. It is well marked but things happen when you are working around midnight.

I suggest you take lots of pictures before the work commences and during every stage of disassembly.

It may help to determine if you will need an engine support mechanism at the time that you lower your subframe. Many people have accomplished it without one, but if you decide to use one, Nick Chrimes has a good write up to make one.

If you lower the sub frame and engine too much at the back, you can damage the DIS unit on the front cross over intake pipe when it contacts the strut tower, so have a spotter watch for that.

http://www.wikisho.com/wiki/Engine_Support_Beam

Yay last time I was at the shop my older friend who works there was painting his car without a paint booth we all kinda had bad headaches and were pretty high so I get putting things in wrong

 

[blk\blk90]

While you've got the clutch out you can take a look at the rear main seal too.

 

[AREA 91]

Visit www.shonutperformance.com
Buy the clutch install DVD!
Lots of great information. Worth every penny!!!!