New Clutch - Ford?, Modified?, Heavy Duty?, ShoShop?, How much $$$$?

[Marccus]

I've searched the forums on clutch problems. I'm pretty sure I'll need a new clutch fairly soon.

I experience that 'click' when the clutch pedal is just about at the floor, and I feel that 'roughness' or 'vibration' through my foot at the pedal when in gear - especially in reverse.

This is my fifth clutch. I have 264,000 mi on my '89 SHO - about 66,000 mi per clutch.

Is that average, better than average, worse than average?

All replacement clutches were stock clutches from the dealer.

My question:

Are the "heavy" duty modified clutches better - i.e. last longer?

I'm just a street driver, so I don't need performance increases to launch me around. I need the biggest bang for the buck!

I am interested in installing a better clutch if it lasts longer for the amount paid and the clutch feels the same or better than the stock clutch.

I don't think I want to spend an extra $200 dollars for a clutch and get only 1,000 extra miles.

Does anyone recommend a particular clutch brand or modification - ShoShop clutches - which price level?

I have to install this myself, I can't afford to pay the dealer this time $500 to $600 in labor.

I read there are some videos on this repair. Where can they be purchased?

Also, can I do this repair by just placing the car on jack stands or ramps and crawling underneath it or do I need to put the car up.

If I can't do it with jack stands, I'll need to dig a hole underneath it and do the repair.

Can I do the repair in a full day, a weekend?

Any special tools? tool

Who is the best person/place to buy the clutch from?

Any recommendations, help appreciated. :thumb

 

[91 SHOplus]

Dude, I just got my car back from a clutch job, and as you know, it aint cheap. shoot

Do a search on this topic. There are dozens of posts on it. Shoshop I think has a how-to video, but from what I've read, if you look PITA up in the dictionary it says "see SHO clutch job!"

 

[SnickterP]

when i had my clutch done, it was about $400 for labor. my friend did his clutch on his sho about a month ago. took him about a weekend. on jack stands. no lift. but he also works as a mechanic for infinity and jaguar, and now goes to some nascar school in north carolina

 

[Aspect]

It took me two weekends, but that was because I had to order parts that I wasn't aware I needed (ie transmission mounts and the flywheel needed to be resurfaced). Its a job to do since the brilliant Ford Engineers didn't give us clearence to drop the transmission without dropping the subframe and also decided not to give us a modular subframe either. WHOLE subframe must be dropped to do it. Good thing is you don't have to completely remove the transmission. You can move it off to the side (between the subframe and unibody) while you replace the clutch and flywheel. Most FWD vehicles have to replace clutches between 60K and 100K miles (depending on driving conditions). You are on the low side of the scale. If you ride the clutch or in heavy stop and go traffic, this will lead to a shorten clutch life.

But from what I witnessed with my clutch, I would have gone more than 74K miles with no problems had FORD designed a better throwout bearing. My father and I mic'd my old clutch place vs my new clutch plate and found only 1MM difference. My new clutch disc was 8.5 MM thick where the old one had just under 7.5MM thickness (still alot of meat on it. Not even close to the rivets) after 74K miles. My slipage was due to the inner wear of the throwout bearing and the wear on the fingers of the pressure plate.

A higher performance clutch does not neccessarly mean longer life expectancy. It gives you more clamping power for Higher HP being controled without slipage, but not neccessarly longer life.

I went with the Ford OEM and the wear components from SHONUT for $269 delivered. Its well worth it to get the wear components. You will use this stuff. Trust me ! I could not afford to step up to a high performance clutch with doing a 60K service at the same time. Plus (other than the throwout bearing) the stock clutch seems to do well until you go with Nitrous or any Boost.

 

[Marccus]

Thanks to everybody above this reply!

I don't know why I'm running on the low end of the clutch life. I don't do much city driving at all - almost all highway - and I'm easy on the clutch.

Should I look at the cable or wear, TOB, or other wear parts before replacing the clutch.

I know it is a lot of work. From what you've described so far, I don't think I can do it. I'm not sure I have the time and tools, but more importantly, this is the only car I own.

So I can't afford to screw up or take too long because I won't have a car.

I live in Southern California and I couldn't even get to work without a car!

I have a good mechanic friend - I'll talk to him and he can judge what is involved.

I guess I'll just go with OEM; I don't need upgrade since I don't have any extra horsepower in the engine from add-ons.

Damn - I wish I knew more and had access to a hydraulic lift to get the car up.

Thanks for your advice and help.