new Cam postion sensor.. Still stalling and getting codes 212 and 214

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zacritz929

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Mr Anonymous said:
Ok, time for the truth about CKP gaps... As long as the timing gear shutters clear the sensor without hitting it, you're good. The specified gap is to make sure it doesn't happen, but as long as the shutters aren't hitting plastic, it's good.

Now, check to make sure your coil pack has power. Combination 212 and 214 codes almost always point to a problem with the coil, and failing that the DIS. A 212 and 214 at the same time almost never (99.9%) means either sensor is bad.
Wow. everybody else says you have to be accurate with a .03 gap but its nice to now here thats not completely true from someone with 4000+ posts on here. Its not hitting the palstic either. Its also ncie to know that most likely the plug for the coil is loose or bad and that its not the sensors. thanks for the info.
 

zacritz929

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SHOtime2511 said:
i think thats your problem,i had the same symptoms on my old 89.
where do you have it hooked up to?
Its hooked from the manifold to the original spot on the firewall which I sanded all contacting areas.
 

Racer X

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Are the bolts on the crossover tube torqued down to the rest of the intake? There are 2 bolts that I speak of, with 12mm heads IIRC.
 

mlatten

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The wire for the crank sensor gets wormed up through the timing covers and then under the crossover tube. You sure it isn't crimped or grinding on a moving part and has finally shorted. That would explain the code.

Best of luck, and don't worry, you'll find it.

Matt
 

zacritz929

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Racer X said:
Are the bolts on the crossover tube torqued down to the rest of the intake? There are 2 bolts that I speak of, with 12mm heads IIRC.

I went through the whole ground path and sanded all of the spots and made sure everything was tight. What would happen if there wasnt heat sink grease behind the DIS? I heard you can buy heat sink grease from radioshack but the guy at radioshack told me Id prolly have to order it off the internet. Go figure. So instead I put dielectric grease behind the DIS. I probably shouldnt have but I did this AFTER the car wouldnt start so I know it isnt the main cause for the car not starting.
 

zacritz929

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I got the front of the motor back together and it started up.. Also I found a bolt that wasnt screwed in on a metal plate below the coil pack. Didnt look like it was a ground or anything but maybe it was. I didnt drive the car yet but I let it idle for 5-10 mins. The car sounded a little funny but thats probably because it hasnt been driven in a couple weeks. It didnt throw any codes either. Im just wanting to know what the chances are that when I take it out tomorrow the CEL comes on and the car stalls?!? Its my bday tomorrow and maybe this is a present lol..Ive been waiting to drive the ******!
 
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mlatten

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Well firstoff Happy Birthday! I glad she fired up after everything you went through. Best of all, you saved yourself the hassel of a dealer.

I'd really like to know what you end up attributing the no start to. I'm not sure which bolt under the coil pack you refer to, but who knows.

Congrats, and please report on how she runs - I'm sure it'll be fine.

Matt
 

zacritz929

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I took it around the block.. The second time around after 2 miles it stalled and of course didnt start back up. There was also some smoke coming from around the power steering pump again. I got codes 335 and 212 stored. How do I fix this damn SPOUT problem?

I checked and there is no spark.. If the car is cranking fine but there is no spark could this possibly be caused by bad battery cables?
 
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zacritz929

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OMG the problem was that when i changed the t-stat I routed the coil packs main plug AROUND the rad hose instead of in front of it. The clip part of the plug was broken off so the hose was pulling the plug loose. I put the plug in front of the house and now the car is fine. Im glad its back on the road after 3.5 weeks!
 
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