new Cam postion sensor.. Still stalling and getting codes 212 and 214

[zacritz929]

As some of you might know i just did my front 60k and then found that my cam sensor is bad so I changed it but Im still getting codes 212 and 214. I made sure that the pins on the new sensor are fine. How do I check the female pins? Also I noticed that there is a burn hole on the surface of the female connector. It doesnt look like it burned through or anything but is this most likely the problem? If so where can I buy a new connector from?

I heard that if the CEL light goes off when I try to start the car, it rules out a bad Crank sensor. Is this true?

The car wont even start now!! Help please!

 

[zacritz929]

Now it wont even start...I hate this car

 

[mlatten]

Crank sensor, at best the DIS. Both are easy changes. The motorcraft CPS ran me $98, and a few hours to install. Gap it to .030 inches over the timing gear. The DIS is the same as the 89 - 93 T-bird SC, or so I've heard.

Question:
If the timing gear is a little crusty where the sensor picks it up, should it be lightly sanded, or left alone?

Best of luck,
Matt

 

[zacritz929]

As some of you might know i just did my front 60k and then found that my cam sensor is bad so I changed it but Im still getting codes 212 and 214. I made sure that the pins on the new sensor are fine. How do I check the female pins? Also I noticed that there is a burn hole on the surface of the female connector. It doesnt look like it burned through or anything but is this most likely the problem? If so where can I buy a new connector from?

I heard that if the CEL light goes off when I try to start the car, it rules out a bad Crank sensor. Is this true?

Already have a new CPS.. I had my DIS tested at Murrays and they said its fine. There is no spark..Im ready to call teh dealership and pay for it!!

 

[mlatten]

CPS = Crank Sensor, or am I missing something?

It's one of the hardest sensors to diagnose, as they seem to all fail a different way. In order to get spark, you need positive signal from the CPS and CID (camshaft sensor, which you replaced), simple Boolean AND. 1+1=1, but 1+0=0 .

Don't pay a dealer.

Matt

 

[YAHTEC]

CPS = Crank Sensor, or am I missing something?

It's one of the hardest sensors to diagnose, as they seem to all fail a different way. In order to get spark, you need positive signal from the CPS and CID (camshaft sensor, which you replaced), simple Boolean AND. 1+1=1, but 1+0=0 .

Don't pay a dealer.

Matt

Hes right, sounds like CPS to me too Do it yourself and save some $$

 

[zacritz929]

Right now it seems that I have no choice but to take it to a dealer because I have all new sensors and it wont start. If the gap on the crank position sensor was off would it throw a code? Right now it seems thats the only thing that could be wrong. But then again the car has started fine probably 10 times since I put the Crank sensor in and all of a sudden the damn car wont start. Its a mystery to me. I went through and freshened up all of my grounds and nothing has changed.

 

[mlatten]

I don't think an ill-gapped CPS would toss a code.

The engine turns over? Is the harmonic balancer on all the way?

Is your coil pack plugged in all the way? That took me an hour to figure out a while back.

Is your fuel inertia switch depressed? The red button in the trunk.

I would spray contact cleaner over each connection, which will rule that out at least.

Also, are all of the electrical/ignition modules which mount to the front of the bay present and wired? You didn't pinch any connectors between the fan and the radiator, like I've done, right?

Just ideas. Don't get frustrated, and don't bring it to a dealer. This is just a no-start situation. 20 million of them a day.

Matt

 

[zacritz929]

Ive went through every connectors that ive touched almost 10 times and havnt had anything change...I cant think of anything else to do.

 

[mlatten]

Appease me. Pull the passenger wheel. Remove the bolt holding on the crank pulley. Is it on all the way? Is it loose in any way?

Matt

 

[platoribs]

What a forum, talking a fellow member down from the Sdealer. They won't figure it out any better than you, just charge you WAY more.

Good luck getting on top of it.

 

[zacritz929]

I torqued the crank bolt to 130lbs so I dont think thats a problem.. Im going to get a LED and test the connections sometime this week.

 

[mlatten]

I've seen it on 3 cars, including mine. You can torque that bolt all day, but if the harmonic DAMPNER isn't on all the way, you'll have problems. I know this is obviously an electrical malfunction, but cross it off your list anyway.

Also - is your fuel pump priming? Any codes.

Best of luck.

Matt

 

[zacritz929]

How can I check if the dampner is on all the way? My fuel pump is priming. The codes that I got were 212 and 214...

 

[mlatten]

To check the dampner is on, just pop off the bolt. I've never used "the starter bump" method, just impact guns. Unthread the bolt and you'll either see the pulley sitting flush with the end of the crankshaft or there will be a lip - you'll see it and go, "oh." I said "oh."

I must have overlooked that you got 212 and 214 - neither of which say CPS. But I think it's the CPS, especially since the new CID didn't change anything.

If you prime the pump 6 or 7 times by turning the key off to on, I think you're supposed to have just under 40 psi at the rails. Inadequate pressure will choke the engine out.

Make sure the pulley and timing sprocket are on correctly, you don't have crank cancer and the cps is gapped, ****, plugged in. lol (that's not a jab, just a memoir)

Matt

 

[zacritz929]

I tested all of the connections with a LED light and the IDM didnt light up the LED. WHat does this mean? Is this my problem?

Edit: If my CPS is misgapped will it keep the car from having spark?

 

[ohfosho]

if you didnt gap the CPS properly/at all, there is a large chance that it's vanes have been damaged or ripped off, there for rendering the sensor useless.

 

[zacritz929]

if you didnt gap the CPS properly/at all, there is a large chance that it's vanes have been damaged or ripped off, there for rendering the sensor useless.

Well i did gap it but I dont know how accurately I gapped it. I have the front of the motor all apart again and the vanes and CPS are fine. Now when I gap the CPS should I push down ******* it while the feeler guage is in place because the way it is now the feeler guage doesnt fit in the gap tight until about halfway through the slot in the CPS (if that makes sense). I figured the car would start even if I gapped it a little bit inaccurately. Hopefully Ill have it back together soon and figure out why it wont start.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Ok, time for the truth about CKP gaps... As long as the timing gear shutters clear the sensor without hitting it, you're good. The specified gap is to make sure it doesn't happen, but as long as the shutters aren't hitting plastic, it's good.

Now, check to make sure your coil pack has power. Combination 212 and 214 codes almost always point to a problem with the coil, and failing that the DIS. A 212 and 214 at the same time almost never (99.9%) means either sensor is bad.

 

[SHOtime2511]

check your ground strap on the passanger side,rear on the intake manifold.