Need Some Help Pleeze

[smudgedogg69]

Ok so here goes.
About a week ago my battery light started coming on intermitently and i figured it was a loose wire going to the alt, because the samy symptoms happened before. so i wiggle the wires around, light goes off, everybody is happy.
The next day i drive my car to the gas station shut it off to get gas and then go to turn it on and nothing. battery is dead. i try to get someone to come jump it but every time it would start the car would just idle down and die. After 3 tries of not being able to jump it i had him sit there for about 15 minutes charging my battery with his car and it started up and i drove it home.
Well after 3 days lof putzing around finding out my alternator was bad, replacing it, replacing the belt, testing the battery, checking all the wires/grounds etc, the car is still not charging the battery. i can get the battery to take a charge but for some reason the alt is not putting out a damn thing. i cant drive it 5 miles without all the lights fading out, the car starting to sputter and then cutting out. i cannot find what is wrong.
any help would be greatly appreciated

 

[SHOtimer]

Take the alternator out and have it tested, they do go bad that quick. All it is is a cheap rebuild. Also, have them test your battery for any bad cells.

Doug

 

[Yamaha V6]

Right.

My alt went, and I took the opportunity to replace the battery as well. When your battery's crappy, the alt is working overtime to try & charge it.

 

[smudgedogg69]

so far no luck. i did manage to find a bad starter solenoid. i had the battery and new alternator tested yesterday. both were fine and the battery was fully charged. needless to say i am going to have them both tested again tomorrow.
ps anyone have/know of somewhere i can get a wiring diagram?
i will make you the best peanutbutter and jelly sandwich ever.

 

[mosho93]

http://shoforum.com/diagrams/diagrams.htm

Check that out, you might find something here! good luck

 

[smudgedogg69]

mosho93 thanx

ive been testing the wires with the volt meter and i have found:
from the white/black wire coming from the voltage regulator there is approx a 1 volt drop. mid 12's before the regulator, mid 11's after. is this normal?

 

[SHOZ123]

With the ohm meter and the engine off check between the alternator output wire and the battery positive post. Also the stud on the end of the engine compartment fuse box. Readings should be under 1 ohm.

 

[Venom SHO s7]

As stated above, check the wires with a multimeter to see if youre losing voltage through a bad wire. (the strands could be broken and it wont be visible since its covered by the wire insulation). Umm.. nevermind you already did.

-You can also do a parasidic drain test to see if youre losing excess power with the car off.

One of my brothers cars kept doing this for a while,until one day he noticed that the underhood bulb stayed on and you wouldnt see it since the hood was already shut. You never know, something like that would be hard to find yet still **** the batt. It wouldnt hurt to check.

 

[Redskull]

which engine? the 3.0 and 3.2 are slightly differnt..
Can you post the exact voltage reading from across the battery terminals when the car is idling, and also when you rev it to about 5k?

alan

 

[smudgedogg69]

which engine? the 3.0 and 3.2 are slightly differnt..
Can you post the exact voltage reading from across the battery terminals when the car is idling, and also when you rev it to about 5k?

alan

3.0

yesterday between the terminals was 12.56 at idle and at 5000k, and then it slowly drains from there. ive tested it a few times from when its been fully charged and the readings are the same at idle and under load. the battery voltage is running through the system, it just seems like the alternator isnt even there.

 

[smudgedogg69]

ok so just got back from getting the alt tested..... well it is officially dead..... already. :cuss:
stupiud reman alternator.

had it tested at 2 places and no go. not putting out a damn thing at idle or under load (like i needed to get it tested to tell me that)
autozone is getting one in tomorrow... keepin the fingers crossed.

 

[Redskull]

Double check the wire going to the dash; it's rare but often misdiagnoised problem, especially when 'wiggling the wires' is a temporary solution:
The I-circuit going to the dash to give you the alternator warning light is actually the start-up power for the regulator; without it, the regulator won't work, and the car won't charge, even if the generator portion of the alternator works fine. And more to the point, depending on the regulator, running the car with the alternator working and the regulator not can actually fry the regulator and then your buying a whole new alternator.

Anyway, more to the point, unplug the wiring harness from the alternator, attach a jumper wire from the I plug in the harness (Light Green and Red for a '94) to a ground, and then turn the key to run, and *make sure the alternator warning light comes on in the dash*. If it doesn't, ring out the cable from the ignition switch to the alternator to make sure theres still continuity. If it does come on, i've been no help and you're back to square one and you got f**ked over on your rebuilt parts

alan

 

[smudgedogg69]

finally

ok so i got my second reman alternator today, threw it in and presto. 14.58 volts was never such a welcome sight.

thanx for all the input guys.

now if my motor mounts would freakin get here....

 

[mosho93]

glad you got it figured out man! Such a good feeling after you work soo ******* something and then it all comes together for ya! you went with some performance mm i suppose?

 

[smudgedogg69]

of course. reinforced shonut mm. 1 more item down on the list. plenty more to go.

 

[smudgedogg69]

motormounts came today put them in in about 2 hours. pretty easy. no more clanking.