Need Help!!

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Whiner

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I pulled the wire out. There was so much slack at the end of the black casing, i wondered what it was and it just pulled out. This picture was taken at my house.
 

SHOMEX

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How exactly do I wire the secondaries open?

Back to the subject, if the broken cable on the IMRC goes to the lower intake manifold, then you can wire the secondaries open with that same cable; pull the cable with pliers and secured it somewhere you can(use your imagination) If the cable showed in the picture is coming from the box, then you can't wire the secondaries open with that cable,You will have to do it with other cable, I think it'll be better to ask for local help with some body that knows how to do it.
I recomend you to do the following: remove the IMRC out of the car,clean your CEL code and wire the secondaries open and if your cams aren't weld it do it! and the same person can clean the intake manifold, then you can worry about buying a new IMRC that will not break soon. Hope this help. :thumb:









But cleaning the lower manifold isn't going to connect the cable back up
 

BodylessSHO

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Putting a new IMRC on is between a 10 minute and 1 hour job, depending on how good you are at hooking the plastic clip on. Took me about a half an hour. But yeah, get your secondaries cleaned, then deal with the IMRC.
 

SHOZ123

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If you remove the 90 that the TB is attached to by taking the support bracket off and then loosen the rubber coupler you can then move the 90 and TB together out of the way for easy access to the IRM actuators.

Here is how I tied mine back before gutting them.

Tied%20open%20IRM.jpg
 

Too Ez

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Well I don't think they are stuck open. They are closed shut and not opening when they should be. That is the problem. Is there ANYONE around my area that can or knows how to do this?
 

SHOMEX

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Why do you think the cable got broken? You'll be surprised how much crap you will see when you'll clean your butterflies.
 

Too Ez

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Well the cable slid right out. It wasn't connected to the silver box at all. Also I can't take my car apart like that because I can't go without it. Being it is my only way of transportation!
 

Bizzy

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I believe I understand what Paul's saying, it shouldn't be too hard to do. I'll double check what I'm understanding later this afternoon, take some pics and get them to you this evening. If you can't get it done with that let me know and maybe we can work out something for me to drive down on Sunday.
 

SHOZ123

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Take the bolt and two nuts off and remove the bracket behind the TB that connects the front set of intake horns to the surge tank. The bracket also goes over the top of the PCV hoses.

Then take the two studs out that the nuts were attached to, loosen the large rubber connector that is between the 90 and the surge tank.

Then the 90 and TB will lift out of the way to expose the butterfly actuators. Leave the hoses and throttle cables all attached.

Takes three hands to wire tie them open.
 

Too Ez

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Bizzy said:
I believe I understand what Paul's saying, it shouldn't be too hard to do. I'll double check what I'm understanding later this afternoon, take some pics and get them to you this evening. If you can't get it done with that let me know and maybe we can work out something for me to drive down on Sunday.
I might take you up on that offer. If you can get me the pics I can see what I can do. And if I can't do it we'll see if you can come out!
 

MeeSHO

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I had the same problem two weeks ago... no power, no roar, and an SEL. My cable was broken off at the tab that connects the cable to the secondaries, not inside the IRMC itself. As stated, make sure you unplug the IRMC to get rid of the annoying SEL. Also with that, make sure you disconnect the battery for a little to drain the computer. I maybe went a little farther than I had to to get room to wire them open, but none the less, the TB has to come out of the way for access. I used some safety wire to hold the TB out of the way while I worked. I also used safety wire to hold open the secondaries. I have not noticed any real problems with it being this way. Only thing I noticed was a little more "roar" from accross the RPM range, but I didn't say it was a bad thing!
 

SHOZ123

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I take the butterflies and shafts out and plug the shaft holes with red hi temp silicone. The shaft surface area is over 3 sq inches.
 

Too Ez

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So I guess my question to you guy is, should I keep the box unpluged until I get it fixed or should it stay pluged in? Or doesn't it matter since its not working anyways? I unpluged it today to see what happend and it shut the service engine light off. When I pluged it back in it came back on!
 

Sagabu

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:hail: Mr. A nailed it.
Just becuase they are not stuck doesn`t mean they are not sticking.
The IMRC cable is only meant to pull and any cable failure is due to toooo much tension. It`s a sign of other issues.
Do it the right way and clean out the carbon in the intake/secondaries, then replace/repair the IMRC.
Don`t work the secondaries at this point. You may damage the plastic shaft links if not already damaged !!!!
Visually make sure the secondaries are all opening before you reasemble. If the plastic shaft bridges are damaged, only the butterflies located nearest the TB will open correctly.
Intake cleaning is general maintanance on these fine machines.
While you are there, swap out the plugs and rear coils.
If you aren`t welded, get it done.
It`s a job and I recomend a SHO mechanic if you do not understand the proper proceedure.
Do it right! :thumb:
 

Sagabu

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Are you welded ? :shrug:
There are SHO mechanics in MA, GA, IL, and OH.
Don`t take it to an average shop.
Take it to someone that knows SHO`s.
Maybe a Camfest will come your way ???
 

stephen newberg

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If I remember how I did it correctly, I just pulled to see what moved and it showed on a circular spring mechanism. I just reached in and grabbed that at the attachment point for the cable with a pliers and pulled it all the way, slipped a separate wire around it (you have to hook the wire and then grab it, so it is handy to have someone else to provide the third hand here, but I did manage to do it on my own, so it can be done), and then I tied that off to force it in an always pulled (open) position. Took maybe 25 minutes, including taking the taking the cover off and putting it back on.

But do be sure to remember to unplug the controller to prevent code hassles, as noted above.

pax, smn
 

Want.to.be

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its the little black box next to your battery. It works like a carb set up, my car did the same thing. (replaced about 6 months or so ago)

I replaced my IMRC just last week to.

jpc
 
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