Need Help!!

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Too Ez

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So I go outside to my car today to go to work and I turn it on and the Service Engine Soon light came on. I'm thinking to myself, "this is strange, its never done that before." So I'm driving to work and it feels like its SLOW. Like the secondaries aren't working. I'm thinking to myself I just put in some very SH!TY gas so I take it to Pep Boys and they put it on the scanner and the code comes up the the secondary valve is stuck open. So after a couple minutes trying to locate it we finally find that it is under the SHO plast cover on the engine and that it is electronic, where we thought it was vaccume. Has anyone ever had or heard of this problem before? And if so how the **** do I fix it without spending $958749370? PLEASE HELP!!!

EDIT: The reason I'm posting this here is because EVERYONE comes to this section and not much the Gen 3 help section. So please don't move it!
 

Whiner

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Your probably going to replace your Secondary Air Injection Control Solenoid. I think it is vacuum. Not to sure though.


Here is the part#E8AE 9H465-BA
 

SHOMEX

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I'm pretty shure that the problem is your (IMRC) Intake Manifold Runner Control, It's not a huge deal. You will have to check if the cable on the box under your engine plastic cover is broken (most likely) and if so You will have to spend like $150 to buy a new one, or wire open your secondaries with a wire (guetto fix) but cheaper.
 

Too Ez

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jlros75 said:
I'm pretty shure that the problem is your (IMRC) Intake Manifold Runner Control, It's not a huge deal. You will have to check if the cable on the box under your engine plastic cover is broken (most likely) and if so You will have to spend like $150 to buy a new one, or wire open your secondaries with a wire (guetto fix) but cheaper.
Thank you VERY much. You are prolly the most helpful person on these forums I kid you not! I seriously thank you!
 

Allmostall

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Hello,
You also need to check that the secondaries are operating freely. If you have high
mileage and they have never been cleaned you may have a binding issue. If they are
binding, a new IRMC will not last long under those conditions. Just something to check
before buying a new part. Regards
 

Too Ez

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I just broke 83,000 Miles! And i've had it since almost 70,000 and I'm sure its never been cleaned
 

Too Ez

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Will it hurt the car a lot if I don't get it cleaned right away? Or just bad gas milage
 

Allmostall

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Probably won't hurt anything. To have the secondaries cleaned is a job. Are the
cams welded? If not, then when you get them welded would be a great time to clean
the butterflys. Had mine done by FPS when the cams were welded, you would not
believe how carboned,gunked and just generally filthy they were. They took the
butterflys off the shafts and really did a fine job on everything. Good Luck
 

Too Ez

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Allmostall said:
Probably won't hurt anything. To have the secondaries cleaned is a job. Are the
cams welded? If not, then when you get them welded would be a great time to clean
the butterflys. Had mine done by FPS when the cams were welded, you would not
believe how carboned,gunked and just generally filthy they were. They took the
butterflys off the shafts and really did a fine job on everything. Good Luck
Its crazy, like when the secondaries are supposed to kick it there is absolutely NO power. It feels so slow. I'm hoping to get it fixed soon. And when I do will the service engine light go off?
 

DavidT

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I believe it is behind the appearance cover... the IMRC is the device that the guy at Pep Boys helped you find... (I think)
... there has been lots of posts about wiring open the secondaries due to a failed gearbox/ broken cable(?). Sounds to me like yours are stuck closed. From what I have read, your best bet is to wire them open. That or find the part on ebay or a junkyard. It seems to be a wear item on these cars :frown:
I don't think there are any negative side effects from wiring them open, except maybe a rougher cold idle (until car is warmed up). Power should return if you wire them open.
What specific code did it throw?

Here is a recent thread:http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=52060
here is a pic. from another post:
img_5394.jpg
 

Whiner

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That indeed is the part broken on his car, when i checked where the wire was, it pulled out. Broken on the end.
 

Too Ez

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Indeed it was that part. Looks like I'm going to have to call the dealer or junk yard or maybe e-bay for one. Does anyone know exactly how much a part like that is? Here is the pic of me hold the broken cable in my hand.

SHOS_014.jpg
 

Too Ez

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Oh, and the code he came up with was something like 15, 18, 1260????
 

SHOMEX

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Unplug the gray connector that has the white dot on your picture of the box and the code will go off, Wire the secondaries open and you'll be good to go,and could look for that box later without hurry and like I said before that box will cost you from $150 to $190 at the dealer.
 

Whiner

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jlros75 said:
Unplug the gray connector that has the white dot on your picture of the box and the code will go off, Wire the secondaries open and you'll be good to go,and could look for that box later without hurry and like I said before that box will cost you from $150 to $190 at the dealer.


I don't think he can wire the secondaries open with the cable broken. It's not an electrical problem, its just completely out of the box.
 

Mr Anonymous

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Your secondary butterflies are gunked up. You can replace the actuator, but at $195.45 list, you'll be throwing that money away when it just breaks again. You need to clean your lower manifold.
 

Too Ez

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Mr Anonymous said:
Your secondary butterflies are gunked up. You can replace the actuator, but at $195.45 list, you'll be throwing that money away when it just breaks again. You need to clean your lower manifold.
But cleaning the lower manifold isn't going to connect the cable back up!
 

SHOMEX

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I don't think he can wire the secondaries open with the cable broken. It's not an electrical problem, its just completely out of the box.

First If you noticed I said unplug the electrical connector to get rid off the CEL this guy has(obviously after clearing the code) and then wire the secondaries open. Second how do you know were the cable is broken? With that picture is hard to see. One time the cable in my IMRC broke from the well inside the box and I pulled the cable and looked exactly as he is showing on the previous picture.
 
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