need help with spout connector issue

[josho]

found out the PCM has not been changed so is it PCM and can I use a atx PCM?

 

[sperold]

See Post #4. The PCM was identified as the usual suspect early on.
I would get the very same one, myself.... mainly because I don't know the interchangeability of these things.

 

[luigisho]

You have to use the same tranny configuration pcm. Any MTX pcm (might have a problem with 89-90 without emissions programming) will work.

 

[josho]

If I understand right the spout wire comes from the PCM from the gray and red pin 46 so if that is the case how can I have 5.8 volts in the spout wire and not have any in the PCM wires

 

[josho]

the link don't work

 

[lowc]

well that sucks but it shows the pink wire comming out of pcm to spout then has the gray/red wire comming out of pcm and going to a couple of splices and then to spout and sensors stated in post 9 if that helps. i didnt see above, witch wire do you have the voltage at?

 

[josho]

Changed PCM no change. Still no voltage in grayred wire. Found pin 36 black wire disconnected where does that go

 

[rubydist]

If I understand right the spout wire comes from the PCM from the gray and red pin 46 so if that is the case how can I have 5.8 volts in the spout wire and not have any in the PCM wires

that suggests that one of the other devices fed by the gray/red wire is hosed up. unfortunately, there is a long list, so you will need to do more chasing of wiring.

do you have any other codes?

 

[sperold]

Have you tried a timing light yet?
Try the spark advance test (Post 19), but I don't think it will advance.
After that, have someone man the timing light, and you move wires that you think are near that long list of sensors. If the timing suddenly advances, you have moved the right wire.

 

[itwonder]

I happened to notice that the EEC connector description does not agree with the descriptions in some of the earlier posts, so I'm not quite sure what is going on here. The connector label (see photo) indicates pin 46 is a signal return, not a supply. That might explain why you are unable to measure a voltage on it, or the diagram may be wrong.

I would start by measuring across something you know is working, like the clutch switch. With the ignition switch in the run position do you measure a voltage across the clutch switch when it is not depressed? I assume you are using a high impedence voltmeter and not an incandescent test light. Which lead on the clutch switch does the red lead of your voltmeter need to be on to measure a voltage, P/Y or GY/R? Once you verify you can measure the EEC signals, try measuring across the open spout connector

 

[sperold]

In the above pin listing, pin 36 is disconnected, it is listed as the "spark output" ....... is that the "spout" (SParkOutput)?

 

[Off Road SHO]

Yes.

Tom

 

[sperold]

This might be too simplistic, but may I suggest you re-connect the wire from pin 36 and see if the timing will advance at that point.

 

[sperold]

The only thing I can offer is..... if you have a wire that goes on pin 36, tape it loosely to the harness and, where the wire ends, look in the harness for a spot where a wire may have once come out. If you find nothing, be prepared to cut back the harness tape and look inside to see where your broken wire may have once attached to a wire in the bundle.
If nothing comes of that, then you can assume the wire left the bundle and was attached to a sensor or something else, so do something similar with all the area around the end of the wire.
This wire may have been attached to something and was left attached while the motor was being removed, and if never discovered, broke during the removal.
If the motor has ever been out.... this might have happened.
Your best bet is to look on the harness of an operating car and see where it goes, you know the harness location so you have a place to start.
If you give an exact harness location to us, someone on this forum will look on their car to see if they can spot your black wire going somewhere.

 

[itwonder]

This might be too simplistic, but may I suggest you re-connect the wire from pin 36 and see if the timing will advance at that point.

Not too simplistic at all! If that SPOUT wire , from Pin 36 at the EEC to Pin 5 at the DIS, is not connected, there is no way for the EEC to control the spark timing.

 

[sperold]

How about a picture of your black wire, showing where it originates on the connector and how long it is?
Someone here will have a 93 MTX that they can take a look at to help you out.

 

[sperold]

How are those pictures coming along?
If no pictures are coming, maybe a great description of which connector you are referring to, and where it is in relation to some engine, or cowl / fender location.

 

[josho]

The pin 36 wire I am refering to is coming out of the PCM on the firewall at the back left of the engine compartment. It comes out of the PCM as a black wire and is soldered to a blue wire which is not connected to anything total length is about 10 in from the PCM I need help finding out where this wire connects to. Thanks

 

[itwonder]

The pin 36 wire I am refering to is coming out of the PCM on the firewall at the back left of the engine compartment. It comes out of the PCM as a black wire and is soldered to a blue wire which is not connected to anything total length is about 10 in from the PCM I need help finding out where this wire connects to. Thanks

The answer is right here in post #35!

The only problem with your observation is pin 36 from the PCM should be Y/LG color wire. Somebody has dorked with the connector if it is a black wire. The only black wire should be on pin 20, which goes to ground.

 

[josho]

GOT IT !!!!!!!! hooked the wire from pin 36 to a yellow and green wire aI found cut in the harness thanks very much for all the hwlp and support without you guys I would never have got it Thanks again