need help with spout connector issue

[josho]

have 1992 mtx just put in a low mileage 3.0 car starts,idles fine but has no power over 4000 rpms no check engine light but red codes with snap on code reader,says "spout connection open" checked both spout connectors.both OHM good and are connected,Any help?Please!!!

 

[DrivinFast]

have 1992 mtx just put in a low mileage 3.0 car starts,idles fine but has no power over 4000 rpms no check engine light but red codes with snap on code reader,says "spout connection open" checked both spout connectors.both OHM good and are connected,Any help?Please!!!

Are you sure its in all the way and the connecter is ok? might have to trace the wires or do a continuity test.

 

[josho]

checked as far as I can till wire goes in to harness but not sure where the wire ends up at

 

[rubydist]

the pink wire goes directly to the pcm.
the gray/yellow wire goes to a common power feed.

in my experience, if the pcm doesn't see the connector when its there, it is a connector issue at the pcm or a pcm issue.

 

[itwonder]

You can use one of those pointy test lights to probe the SPOUT signal all the way from the DIS back to the PCM. It must be an LED type light, not incandescent. When the car is running, the light will flash .

 

[Off Road SHO]

I believe that the actual spout connector is just a shorting plug, that connects the two wires together. There are usuall two SPOUT connectors on the SHO; one near the firewall at the PCM and one near the antilock brake computer near the left front headlight. I don't know if they are wired in parallel or series.

Tom

 

[luigisho]

Usually a bad DIS or PCM or wiring in between.

 

[josho]

I changed PCM and DIS no change I have power past both spout connectors. So the pink wire going in to the PCM should blink if therre is signal?

 

[Off Road SHO]

I changed PCM and DIS no change I have power past both spout connectors. So the pink wire going in to the PCM should blink if therre is signal?

No, there won't be any blinking. The SPOUT (SPark OUtput Timing I think) is just a shorting connector that puts a short, thereby connecting pin 18 of the PCM to pin 46 of the PCM. The PCM is putting out a true 5 volts (again, I think) on pin 46 and distributes it on the Gray with red wire to the following sensors:

ECT
Knock Sensor
Throttle Position Sensor
BARO Sensor
PS Pressure Switch
Intake Air Temp Sensor
Clutch Pedal Position Switch

And the Spout Check Connector

All the above sensors do something with that 5 volts and return what's left over back to the PCM on other separate wires. But the feed wire for all of them is the same wire.

I'm telling you about all this so that you realize that the feed wire (gy/red) is "bridged" all over the engine compartment and therefor susceptible to damage.

When the PCM doesn't see the 5 volts coming back on pin 18 (SPOUT connector removed) it signals the timing control logic to lock the spark timing to ( I think) 10 degrees BTDC. This is a safe mode and will allow the engine to burn any gas of any octane, even 84.


Tom

 

[Off Road SHO]

Damn, I just re-read your first post and see that you have a 92. My info is for a 94-95 SHO with the 3.0. I don't have a 92 wiring diagram, but the theory is the same.

Tom

 

[sperold]

That was a great explanation of the spout circuit, Off Road SHO.
It looks like your car is running at 10 degrees before top dead center timing, which means you have no spark advance, and no performance. At least it is consistent.
Maybe one of those listed sensors has a bad connection or a broken wire.
Get a timing light, shine up your crank pulley, and start handling / moving the wiring harness until you see your timing advance.
Sounds crazy, but swap the tips on the 2 spout connectors.
I have heard of people putting them in backwards, but with the little groove in them that aligns with a tang, it is hard to imagine that one.

 

[josho]

I have the proper voltage at the spout connector.Can I jump it to pin 18 on the PCM and how is the PCM numbered.

 

[Off Road SHO]

Yes you can, just be careful.

There are 20 pins per row for a total of 60. The back side of the 60 pin connector is numbered but hard to read, but by using the color coded wires you can determine where pin 18 and 46 are(if those are the correct pins for your 92). So the last wire in each row is black or black with green. Top row is 1-20 so the second one back from the black is 18 and on the 94-95's it is a pink wire.

Pin 46 is on the bottom row and might be GraY with red; just start counting on the bottom row starting with 41 till you get to 46.

BTW, the center bolt divides each row in half so it makes it easier to count spaces.

Don't cut the wires, just put a bridge across them with a short jumper wire so that you can remove it later. Those Scotchlok connectors that they sell for "tapping" into a tailight wire for trailer lighting would work well as a temp splice, and the insulation that is displaced by the tines of the connection fork inside the connector is easily re-covered with a dab of silicone.

Tom

 

[lowc]

hope this link works its for 92 http://www.fordtechservice.dealerco...guage=EN&viewer=IE&sortby=wiringdiagrambycell page 15 should be what you need

 

[rubydist]

Damn, I just re-read your first post and see that you have a 92. My info is for a 94-95 SHO with the 3.0. I don't have a 92 wiring diagram, but the theory is the same.

Tom

pins 46 and 18 are used on the 92 as well.

the gray/red wire that starts at the pcm isn't always gray/red - after some of the multiple connections, it can be gray/yellow, gray/red, or red.

at the spout on the 92, according to my Ford wiring diagram, it is gray/yellow.

 

[josho]

I have no voltage in the gray and red or in the pink wire from pcm does that mean my pcm is bad? will a atx pcm work or will a 1st gen pcm work?

 

[sperold]

It is not likely that 2 different PCMs will give you the same symptom.

 

[lowc]

It is not likely that 2 different PCMs will give you the same symptom.

i think he is asking if he could use the different pcms

 

[sperold]

See Post #8.
I am a little confused by this one, but another component has already been tried with no change. My point was the one that has already been swapped did not make a difference, which puts the original one in the clear of being the problem.
I had no idea the spout circuit did all the things that have been listed, so I am way out of my league here.
Just shooting from the hip, I know the OBD1 reader commands the on-board computer to do a spark advance test where you need a timing light. I think it sets the timing at 20 degrees ahead of base timing (so 30 degrees?) This is done before the KOER test.
I would see if this test can be accomplished.

 

[lowc]

sorry missed that one