Need Advice

[KirkSHOcrzy]

got a problem with my SHO and no one can figure it out. So here goes....

I was driving to work all was running fine then went to get on the gas to pass and engine dead. Got a tow to work let it set all day and tried it again started right up....but Died in 3 minutes. That was the last time it started. took it to a mechanic (Econolube)....I know BAD MISTAKE after $1000 worth of work still nada.... Took it to A real Mechanic (I'll SHO u Performance) and so far nothing. here is what i know and what i have changed.

New DIS
New crankshaft position sensor
New timing tensioner and all new belts.
waiting on camshaft sensor to go in
No spark and a slight problem that has yet to be figured out....besides the no spark
60 lb on the leak down test on the front 3 cylinders...well low but yet no answer to why it is so low

anybody have any ideas would be much appreciated.

KirkSHOcrzy.....going crazy without my SHO....
Its been over a month with no SHO.....

 

[SHOman247]

wiht the front 3 cylinders being so low and the car shuting off after it warms up makes me think of a headgasket issue on the front cylinder head.

 

[KirkSHOcrzy]

that may be one problem i may have to fix but what would cause the no spark battery is less than 3 months old most ignition parts are new tons of new timing stuff but she still won't fire up...once i get her to fire up then i can do the rest but with money tight and already over a grand into repairs i am lost ......the mechanic who is working on it is baffeled by the low compression he thinks it might be the rings and gaskets but i just want it to fire up again....i don't know what the test on the back 3 cylinders are just the front so i am sure i will have to do some major repairs to get her back up to the running condition she use to be at but if she ain't got no fire she ain't got no chance.....i have never over heated her and when i bought the car it had just had a engine swapped....(used car dealership....) so its pretty much up to me and the car gods or parts to be sold

 

[Bizzy]

Moving to the troubleshooting section.

Best of luck in getting her fixed.

 

[Mike Kopstain]

Spark is an easy problem to fix. The 60lbs would have me more worried.

How is the shop testing for spark and how are they coming to the conclusion that all these sensors need replacing? To me it just sounds like they're throwing darts at a dartboard.

 

[750sho]

My advice, is to get it towed home, buy a timing light, a case of beer, and invite some 'car knowledge' guys over.
I swear, it's impossible to pay for labor when it comes to the SHO.

And i agree, it sounds like they're throwing darts, hoping to hit the bullseye.
See if there is anyone from the forum that lives near you

Whatever happens, best of luck!

 

[Rockledge]

DIS ignition system test

Rangerj has put together a nice write-up on how to test the SHO's ignition system components/curcuit:

First of all a couple of precautions.

1. Always connect or disconnect connections or test leads with the ignition OFF. Before switching test functions, say from an ohms resistance test to a voltage test, disconnect the test leads.

2. Use only an LED (Light Emitting Diode) test lamp. Do not use a test probe with an incandescent bulb for testing circuits containing electronic components.

3. Use only a Digital Multi meter (DMM) to check circuits resistance or continuity on electronic (solid state) components. Use only a high quality DMM having high input impedance (at least 10 megohm). Do NOT use an analog (swing needle) meter to check circuit resistance or continuity on electronic components.

The above sage advice, regarding testing and working on electronic components, is attributable to Steve (projectSHO89), and SHOZ123. Thanks guys. All that having been said, here is how to test your CPS, (aka PIP or CKP) to control unit.

Connect a DMM or LED test light between the PIP wire (DB Dark Blue) and the negative battery terminal. Then crank the engine. The test light should blink, or the DMM should read between 3 to 7 volts. If NOT, the crank sensor, crank sensor POWER or GROUND, or wiring is faulty.

PIP signal is OK, then next test, SPOUT to DIS module. Connect DMM or LED to SPOUT wire( Y/LG Yellow Light Green stripe) and negative battery terminal, then crank engine. You should get 3 to 7 volts or the test light blinks. If NOT, the control unit or wiring( including connection) is faulty. If OK, next test.

Connect DMM or LED test light between the IDM wire(GY/O Grey/Orange stripe) and negative battery terminal and crank the engine. Again 3 to 7 volts or the LED light blinks. If NOT DIS wiring or module faulty. If OK, next test.

CID to Sensor. Connect LED test light between CID CS wire (DG Dark Green) and negative battery terminal and crank engine. The test light should blink. If not, CID sensor or wiring is faulty. If OK, next test.

COIL PWR. Connect LED test light between COIL PWR (VBAT) wire and negative battery terminal and put the key on. The light should be ON (LIGHT UP). If not COIL PWR wiring faulty.

DIS electrical tests concluded. Hope this helps, rangerj

Here's a diagram of the SHO's DIS ignition system to help you visualize:

You might want to run this stuff by the garage where you spent the thousand bucks.

Good luck!

 

[sdpatt]

Might want to verify that the camshafts are turning. Remove the oil fill cap, shine a flashlight into the hole and get a visual fix on the cam lobe on the driver side of the hole. Have someone turn the ignition key to START to turn the engine and verify that the camshaft is actually turning. If not, either the timing belt failed or the crankshaft keyway under the timing belt pulley has sheared (not liklely).

 

[KirkSHOcrzy]

Thanks All......

My new mechanic, one who actually owns and works on SHO has fixed the problem it seems Econlube failed to connect the coil pack up right. They didn't bolt it on right only used the front 2 bolts and not the back 2 so no ground was attached to the coil pack. Also they didn't connect the wiring up right the rubber seal was crushed in the connector blocking the pins. The cam sensor i had put it while it tore down. Econolube and screw, as i call them, were the ones shooting darts they tried to charge me $400 for a dis module.
So when i get a new lower timing cover (Econolube broke mine) i can put it back together and get her running again.

as for the 60lb i will decarbon the engine and have it tested again. Hopefully it will help. Not to mention she hadn't run for about 6 weeks before they did the test. I live in Denver so i think i should have around 140-150 lbs. I will probably have to do some more work to her but i am happy she is alive again...

Thank you all for your help and advice

KirkSHOCrzy
89 MTX

As for econolube the are under investigation by the local news stations for bad business practices.....

 

[91taurisho]

See if there is anyone from the forum that lives near you

There is a whole SHO club here in denver... I'm a PROUD member! I live out in aurora. Where in denver are you located?

 

[Shonuff_92]

Denver???

What is the name of the SHO club in Denver?? I live in Longmont and have owned my SHO for 4yrs now. Been thinking I should get involved in something like that.

 

[91taurisho]

CSHOC! I'm a proud member! Pm me or TWR to get the info about it.