Name that knock?! Help in figuring this out?

[vortex2450]

Checkmate

Time to stop ******* with it, just swap the engine - I'd use the one in that rusty ATX you have, personally...

If the shim was spit why would that leave the valve open? Seem to me like the valve just wouldn't open all the way without the shim.

At this point I agree....

I'm totally done, this engine have given me grief from day one..

The engine in the ATX needs plug seals but that's easy.

As for my thoughts on the entire issue:

When the shim ejected, as you said, the exhaust valve for cylinder number 2 did not open fully, well what I can conclude is that as the car was driven ( idk how many miles the PO drove it with the miss, can't be more than 200) with the valve not opening fully the burn-up fuel in the exhaust stroke built up around the valve seat to a point that it stopped the valve from fully closing BUT exposed the valve runner to engine the cycles of the cylinder, at that I believe the valve was burnt up and the overheating just caused the valve valve assembly for that cylinder to give up and begin the ticking/knocking noise.

What I don't understand is WHY the engine ran fine when I started it yesterday and today it's completely dead.

I'm curious to as if you may have a clogged oil gallery (misspelled) No oil squirting and ticking maybe this is your issue. No oil getting to the rear head of course is quite bad and I would deffinatly get it rebuilt now that it has run so much.

I'm with you, I don't know how the rear head is fed oil but I did notice the piece squirting oil all over the front head pretty easily, so I didn't investigate it.

I'm over it, it's time to start looking for a cherry picker..

 

[Showgun]

I'm curious to as if you may have a clogged oil gallery (misspelled) No oil squirting and ticking maybe this is your issue. No oil getting to the rear head of course is quite bad and I would deffinatly get it rebuilt now that it has run so much.

Good point.... maybe something has dislodged some crud and now it's plugged up the rear valve train.
If you're keeping this engine you'll have to take that head off, check the valves, springs, and clean out the oil galleries.

It's turning into a PITA for you isn't it. Maybe another engine would be cheaper and simpler.

 

[SVOFANATIC]

I'm over it, it's time to start looking for a cherry picker..

Don't.... Go to harbor freight and get a Fender support. I did my engine swap by dropping it out of the bottom and it was really easy. Took me 6hrs to get it out but that was because I didn't know what I was doing. Took me an hr maybe 2 to get it back in lifted up the engine put the sub frame under it lowered it back down onto the sub frame then bolted it on and raised the whole thing back up and bolted it in that easy. You just have to get the car high enough to get the engine out. Can be accomplished easily with 4 cinder blocks, floor jack, and 2 jack stands.

 

[vortex2450]

Good point.... maybe something has dislodged some crud and now it's plugged up the rear valve train.
If you're keeping this engine you'll have to take that head off, check the valves, springs, and clean out the oil galleries.

It's turning into a PITA for you isn't it. Maybe another engine would be cheaper and simpler.

That is probably the case, I've learned that without proper oil pressure this engine simply WILL not start.

Definitely a PITA... I can attempt to see if it's something i can fix by taking the intake and valve cover off again.....

Don't.... Go to harbor freight and get a Fender support. I did my engine swap by dropping it out of the bottom and it was really easy. Took me 6hrs to get it out but that was because I didn't know what I was doing. Took me an hr maybe 2 to get it back in lifted up the engine put the sub frame under it lowered it back down onto the sub frame then bolted it on and raised the whole thing back up and bolted it in that easy. You just have to get the car high enough to get the engine out. Can be accomplished easily with 4 cinder blocks, floor jack, and 2 jack stands.

I see your a fan of the drop method, problem is I have next to no solid surface, just a bunch of dirt and rocks we assume is a drive way.

I'm not against it but I do have questions, as in..

How do I transfer the 3.2l engine up, over and into the MTX subframe.

How will I even be able to move the engine with a dirt yard? Maybe a wagon with big wheels? Gahhh this is such a headache

 

[SVOFANATIC]

Btw I live in a rock driveway as well and thats were I did the swap at. You will have to do a little bit of work to the engine to get it to work in the mtx

 

[vortex2450]

Btw I live in a rock driveway as well and thats were I did the swap at. You will have to do a little bit of work to the engine to get it to work in the mtx

Awesome, so you could give me helpful tips when the time comes? (Or just make it a challenge for me)

As far as work to make the 3.2l fit I think I know most of it:
-Cut off a chunk of the front head to fit the 3.0 alt..
-Maybe the coil pack bracket?

I think most of it is bolting on the 3.0 stuff, Am I missing anything?

Also, I tore the intake down and got the valve cover off in a fit of anger. I definitely set a new personal record for the time it took to get the intake off that's for sure

I can hear a strange "woosh" as the exhuast valves for cyl #3 go up and down.......... I'll post a video...

EDIT:

Here's the "woosh" I was talking about ..
http://s757.photobucket.com/albums/xx220/vortex2450/?action=view&current=100_3002.mp4

I want to note that all I did was take the intake and valve covers off, so I'm come to the conclusion that I shouldn't be around cars....

Before I messed with it:

http://s757.photobucket.com/albums/xx220/vortex2450/?action=view&current=100_3000-1.mp4

and then after

http://s757.photobucket.com/albums/xx220/vortex2450/?action=view&current=100_3005.mp4

WTF?

 

[vortex2450]

Who wants to tell me where I should begin in preparation of pulling the 3.2l from my ATX?

MY main concern is disconnecting the half shafts from the transmission..

Thanks,
Josh

 

[SVOFANATIC]

Don't disconnect them you don't neet to. Just unbolt the subframe and lower control arms drop it out then you will have enough flex in the strut's to pull the axles out. And btw the rear head aparantly isn't getting oil or it would be squirting.

 

[vortex2450]

Don't disconnect them you don't need to. Just unbolt the subframe and lower control arms drop it out then you will have enough flex in the strut's to pull the axles out. And btw the rear head apparently isn't getting oil or it would be squirting.

In a nutshell all the disconnections required for going under are:

- Disconnect all wires/connectors/coolant tubing/vacuum lines
- Unbolt sub-frame/lower control arms
- Slide out half axles when sub-frame is low enough?

??

I'm not keen on getting squished either so could you elaborate more on how I should be supporting/dropping moving the subframe as well as how I am supposed to get the car high enough for the sub-frame to clear ?

I have a 2 ton floor jack 2 jack stands and a 4x8 sheet of ply wood.

Do I simply put the jack-stands under the sub-frame while it's being unbolted then use a floor jack to raise the sub-frame/remove the stands and lower the jack down and roll it all out?

If so what hard point to I use and how to I balance the sub-frame on the jack ?

You said you've done it a first time in a situation like mine so you probably understand my hesitation...

As far the rear head, I know, when I had the cover off it would not squirt from about 5-6 crank cycles then it would erupt (like when you crimp a hose and let go) and then begin squirting...

I didn't want to chance sticking something done there to maybe clear out whatever was in the way so i left it..