My problem persists....news, codes..

[filc03]

For those of you who forget my problem, here's the other thread: http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=27590

To sum it up, my car stuttered just a little, then jumped from that small problem quickly (within a week) came to have absolutely no power. It bogs down badly, then accelerates slowly through all the gears. The front of the engine gets hot. Not the intake, but the 2 large parts of the block below it. Also, when I am driving and put in the clutch while the engine's at, say, 2k or so, the tach drops to 'round 500 rpm, the oil pressure (red light) blinks some, then the idle goes up to the normal 800 rpm. There's the synopsis. Onto the updates:

Since the throttle position sensor code came up, I decided to replace that. My mechanic had a little trouble deciding which was the correct part number, Napa told him a different one than he expected, but he called a Motorcraft guy and got the right one. Anyway, I put it on, erased codes, ran the car some, and the code still comes up. Here are the codes currently coming up (all are engine running):

167 (R) No Throttle Position sensor change in "goose" test (must get at least 25% rotation) - TPS

225 (R) Knock sensor not tested (ignore if not pinging) - KS

412 (R) Idle speed system not controlling idle properly (generally idle too low) - ISC

These three have been coming up all through the work I've been doing. It does idle low, round 750 rpm or so. Any ideas on why the new TPS wouldn't have any luck? Should I try resetting the idle, see what that does? I'm open to any ideas here.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Your TPS problem (and knock sensor code for that matter) looks more like a problem with how the KOER tests run than with the sensors themselves.

What KOEO codes are you seeing?

 

[AutoSHO]

When you are running the KOER test, are you Goosing the throttle (i.e. mash the gas, wait until the engine is up to at least 3k rpms before letting back off)?

Does the engine run rough? How old are the plugs and especially plug wires?

 

[oh_SHO]

It almost sounds like you have a clogged cat. I think I remember that if you bang on the cats with stick or something and they rattly they are bad?? I dunno. How does it rev in neutral? If it revs real slow that might indicate a exhaust blockage too. I know this was mentioned in the other thread but I didn't see your reply.

On a side note I think Zap and I are going to try and get area SHO owner together for a meet sometime soon. We would be able to try help you with this. I know I love a challenge.

 

[filc03]

I'm getting the clear code for KOEO (111 if I remember right). Yes, I am performing the goose test. I don't know how old the plugs or wires are. The engine does run a little rough, but it keeps a pretty constant idle, doesn't seem too at risk to stall/die except for the problem I mentioned when I bring it outta gear. I'll go bang on the cats & rev it in neutral tonight to check that out. Let me know about the get together. I'd almost certainly be able to get my car there.

 

[filc03]

Alright, here's what happened when I revved it in neutral. Keep in mind that it is currently idling around 800-900 rpm. I just blip the gas, tach jumps up slightly, a little delayed. I let it settle back, then I floored it. The tach dropped to 500 rpm. engine sounded kinda rough, then it started to rise. It was slow up to around 2500, then the tach starts rising as quickly as usual. Strange, eh?
I banged on the cats some, they sound like solid metal, no rattling at all.

 

[filc03]

*Shameless bump*

No ideas? I'm going to try going through everything again, be sure I am getting the right codes & all that, maybe stumble onto something else.

 

[filc03]

Well I reset the idle and it got rid of that code (the 412) but the others still came up. (yes, I erased them after resetting the idle) It idles right at 1k now, a pleasant change from the rough 800 of before. I drove around 10 minutes or so, hit 6k on the tach, got the engine pretty warm, and still 167 and 225 came up as error codes. Car drove a little smoother, still not nearly as powerful as it should be though. The engine was still pretty hot when I was done, but the strange things that happened when I hit the gas in neutral didn't happen anymore.
I noticed a couple random things that I thought I'd mention. About half way down the block on the right side of the engine, there's a female part of a sensor that doesn't have anything plugged into it. ?? Maybe a test sensor or something, but I hadn't noticed it before. Also, a kind of deep noise can be heard when I lean close to the air box. Not very loud, but also something I didn't notice before. The engine temp gage hasn't worked forever, I don't know what the deal is there. Lastly, if I have it in neutral, rev the engine to 3k or so, then turn the engine off, it dies slowly, as if the car was still on. Shouldn't the tach & engine just drop straight to zero? Maybe I'm imagining things, just trying to throw stuff out there.

*begins search of SHOforum on codes 167 & 225*

BTW, cylinder balance comes back clearn...maye try that solenoid test, if I find more info on it..

 

[Mr Anonymous]

*begins search of SHOforum on codes 167 & 225*

You are still doing the test incorrectly, which is why you're getting those codes. In the KOEO test, you should get FOUR 111 codes, two for hard codes and two for memory codes.

 

[filc03]

you should get FOUR 111 codes, two for hard codes and two for memory codes.

Yes, I get all four of the 111 codes with the KOEO. I re-read the testing procedure and went through it again. All I got was the 225 code. Am I still doing the test wrong? With KOER I watched the 3 blinks, waited til the idle rose & settled, waited for the blink, turned wheel hit brake floor pedal for a sec (the light flashed around 3k...that right?) and let the idle settle. 225 came out twice, I waited about a minute and nothing else happened.

 

[autobahnsho]

Yes, I get all four of the 111 codes with the KOEO. I re-read the testing procedure and went through it again. All I got was the 225 code. Am I still doing the test wrong? With KOER I watched the 3 blinks, waited til the idle rose & settled, waited for the blink, turned wheel hit brake floor pedal for a sec (the light flashed around 3k...that right?) and let the idle settle. 225 came out twice, I waited about a minute and nothing else happened.

You also have to "goose" or open up the throttle- just press the gas until it gets up to about 4k rpms and let go.
On an ATX you'd also have to press the OverDrive on then back off. (or vice versa.)

 

[Mr Anonymous]

You also have to "goose" or open up the throttle- just press the gas until it gets up to about 4k rpms and let go.

Ding ding ding ding ding!!!

At this point, I'd also recommend dropping the y-pipe and performing the leaf blower test.