My Plans

[38SHO]

what else the SHO needs:

BBB's
Ported Intake
Underdrive Pulleys
Maybe a different, lighter side exit exhaust
New Transmission, hopefully I'll be getting Kelvin's soon
clutchnet puck style clutch disc

what it has:
3.2 swap... 3.0 cams, one day I'm gonna put on new rings/refurbished 3.0 heads/new headgaskets... if it blows before then I'll just get another 3.2 to freshen up
Borla catback
190lph walbro pump
intake restricter removed

what parts I've started to collect/need to install:

8lb flywheel
ceramic tob
catless y-pipe
lightweight plastic racing seats

whats going on this weekend:
weight reduction.......

-removing rear speakers/sound deadener
-removing JBL amps and wiring
-moving radio to EATC location, run new wiring to front door speakers
this makes way for 2, triple gauge panels for the din slots
-removing dash for a couple weeks to remove wires, modules, airbags, relays, blower, a/c ducting, evaporate/heater core/case, left over metal ac lines

my goal on weight reduction is to keep it around 3000+pounds with decent looking interior, will retain dash, door panels, working windows, center console, and rear seat/carpeting.....

next phase of weight reduction is:
New brake system, convert to a non ABS system, implement an adjustable bias controller and remove the factory one attached to rear control arms. Install 94+ Knuckles, 13" Cobra brakes, 16" lightweight wheels, 205/50/16 rubber for street, install race steering wheel, I've already removed some things from under the hood but I"ll get more frugal... power steering resavoir bracket days are numbered....... things like that will get the scrap pile...

after I'm to this point I will try to weigh the car and check the balance, to determine where the battery should be placed and what type(weight)

I will also be adding some gauges, at the minimum:

-Oil Pressure
-Water temp
-oil temp
-nitrous pressure
-fuel pressure
-wideband o2

yes one day I"ll add a ZEX kit to it and make the last 3 gauges actually worthwhile......

so this is where the 93 SHO is going, hopefully one day I can get another one and take this off the road as its currently my only 4 wheel'd ride......... I don't really want to go Forced Induction and deal with horrible traction and breaking the drivetrain..... so I'll keep it N/A and lighten it to compensate...



I'm gonna start taking some pics of what it all looks like now and work in progress... hopefully I'll be ready to make some shake down passes in a few weeks...... I'll keep stuff updated in this thread as well as update my homepage from my sig picture.......

eventual goals are 13 second pass and trap triple digits... without the juice

the juice would mainly be for street roll racing...

oh yeah, I hope this tird makes it to the convention!

if any of you FSHOC peeps need any parts I remove or want stuff for backup, let me know... you can probably have it for free

I also have a HB EATC I'm trying to sell....

 

[BlackonBlack89]

what else the SHO needs:

BBB's
Ported Intake
Underdrive Pulleys
Maybe a different, lighter side exit exhaust
New Transmission, hopefully I'll be getting Kelvin's soon
clutchnet puck style clutch disc

what it has:
3.2 swap... 3.0 cams, one day I'm gonna put on new rings/refurbished 3.0 heads/new headgaskets... if it blows before then I'll just get another 3.2 to freshen up
Borla catback
190lph walbro pump
intake restricter removed

what parts I've started to collect/need to install:

8lb flywheel
ceramic tob
catless y-pipe
lightweight plastic racing seats

whats going on this weekend:
weight reduction.......

-removing rear speakers/sound deadener
-removing JBL amps and wiring
-moving radio to EATC location, run new wiring to front door speakers
this makes way for 2, triple gauge panels for the din slots
-removing dash for a couple weeks to remove wires, modules, airbags, relays, blower, a/c ducting, evaporate/heater core/case, left over metal ac lines

my goal on weight reduction is to keep it around 3000+pounds with decent looking interior, will retain dash, door panels, working windows, center console, and rear seat/carpeting.....

after I'm to this point I will try to weigh the car and check the balance, to determine where the battery should be placed and what type(weight)

eventual goals are 13 second pass and trap triple digits... without the juice

If you want 13's NA you are going to need TQ. I would look at ways to boost TQ and focus on traction. I was close but wanted boost more than 13's N/A.
Anyways I would skip a few things. Well with 13" brake you a definalty narrowing down tire selection esp with a bigger side wall. go with 11.6 and IMO a pucked clutch just makes things this goal harder because it will be harder to launch or launch it with out breaking something. Go with a clutch that can still be slipped slightly.

And I know what exacltly what will get a SHO into 13's. The new SHOnut tri-flow Cams will do this. I would of have bought those next but well didn't.

With BBB's, EH runners, 3.2, Y-pipe, Tri-flow Cams. I think that would be all the engine would need to do it. **** mid 13 could happen with a low 1.9 60. All the weight reductions would be a huge plus.

Suspension would be important but not much to do. Stock...no but Tockico and intrax would be fine. konis even better. Spring Blocks a definite plus. and dont forget Solid MM.

Tires. If you are serious get some hoosier slicks or DR for the track. I love the hoosiers. Lauch at 4.5k+ and sticking was sweet (damn clutch slipped though) Check ebay got mine for 102 dollars for both brand new. The size is 225/50/16 hooiser quick time pros. And that also equals a 3.90 gear

I also say do the N20 modds when u do the n20.

Good luck. I hope you can do it. I still would like to do it. I only had .31seconds to shave. Damn clutch!!1

 

[SHOtime2511]

ive heard lots of good things about the tri-flow cams. i may have to bite it and but a set.

 

[38SHO]

if I see someone else's in person(cams), I might be interested, but thats a lot of work and money.... but I do know cams really open it up when you alreayd have some bolt ons......

man I lost a lot of weight from the car yesterday.... it sits like a truck now lol, defintely need to drop it, I got like 4" minimum wheel gap all around, maybe more in front... the back of the car is very empty... sound deadeners, speakers, amps, wires... all gone.... only thing passed the center console are the seat belts, package tray stripped down, and the seats. The next day I have I'm gonna pull out the dash cover and start removing stuff there..... damn near all of it, I'll keep some bracing by the column though.... I also need to make a new brake system, removing the rear brake adjuster and the ABS system..... I just need to do some more research on this to make it safe.... Today I should finish installation of one of my race seats... damn they are light!

I saw pics that those TD 16" wheels fit the 17" cobras, and they are also lighter then a slicer..... so that would be a pretty good setup, the rotor I'm sure is heavier, but I hear the calipers are lighter... my 93 brakes suck, they won't even take one stop from 120mph....... I'm down to add a few pounds for a superior brake setup

this car is running good, I worked a 5 speed with atleast exhaust 99+ Mustang GT the other day through 2nd, 3rd, and most of 4th..... before we had to shut it down

the only other thing I'd really need for the nitrous are the gauges and the plugs, I already have a 155lph pump, I wasn't going to run much else with the nitrous, I think that clutch would be good, only when you start getting into that puck style do they start offering compounds that seem to suit my needs, I.E. grip instead of slip when hot.... and I've never been one to slip a clutch, I just like to drop it hard, I'd rather break an axle then **** my clutch/flywheel/PP with heat

we shall see on the clutch

maybe I should get some DR's... I don't have a quaife but I do have an extra pair of gen1 slicers

 

[SHOtime2511]

the 13" rotors are huge and heavy!

 

[BlackonBlack89]

I saw pics that those TD 16" wheels fit the 17" cobras, and they are also lighter then a slicer


we shall see on the clutch

If money is tight I say get the cams only. FWIW the only engine mods I had were 3.2, y-pipe, and UDP. quafie and CM 1 to get it to the ground. That all I would of have done. skip the intake mods IMO.

If you plan on staying with 16 wheels, skip 13" brake or do what I had to do; buy some TD pr 1.2 to clear them. Light as **** though like 15lbs IIRC. (more money in the end)

It not going to hurt a clutch. It not being slipped anymore than street driving. dropping the clutch is the worst thing for everything. It shredds diff pins, motor mounts, alxes. Pre loading the clutch is perfectly harmless. plus getting 3100lbs sedan to just go is pretty hard. My CM stg1 grips great. will spin any street tire on the track. Just can't handle the grip of the hoosiers. But that just my expirence....Stage 2 or stage 3 is what I would look into.

ive heard lots of good things about the tri-flow cams. i may have to bite it and but a set.

I hope you do. I really think it would help tons because it will make lauching easy by keeping the TQ down lower but still have power up top. Is your car still N/A?? I think there are alot of N/A SHO's built right now that could hit 13's but do not/into drag racing. I know that deaconblue 3.4 stroker could. along with area91 and phoniex cammed 3.2's

 

[38SHO]

damn Brian if you woulda been in my car when I was racing that Mustang the other day and saw how labored my brakes were... new pads and rotors I might add..... you would be putting on a cheer leader outfit and having a pep rally for a 13" brake upgrade..... the damn thing just doesn't stop when you mash down on the brake pedal from over 100.......I remeber on my ATX it would handle those kind of stops pretty good... that was the 11.6/PFC pad setup........ and on a lot heavier car...... its damn near dangerous, way too much power for these brakes

a 11.6 upgrade is nice with good pads... but I already have to get every brake part required for that...... I have a 93... even need the knuckles..... if I'm going that route I might as well do the cobra calipers........ if I could get some kind of comparison in weight between 11.6 and 13" rotors maybe that would help me see the light, I could always do the cobra/11.6 setup........

welp today I finally got my seat in, although nothing is back together... I even had to take the console out and carpeting.... I'm glad I pulled the carpeting cause I took a lot of weight off the back of it...... I'm guessing a solid 20+ pounds just for the sound deadener on the back.... took me like 5 hours between making the brackets for the seats/stripping the interior/removing sound deadener on carpet

I'm kind of in the same boat as you BlackonBLack89..... whats ur name thats a hard one to type out..... I think intake mods are over rated....... People say there is a good HP difference with BBB's..... 10 horses might be worth the money......

I'm still on the fence about a ported intake, lots of money... I do have a spare one I could tinker with... but lots of time too....

I'd rather have a better clutch then a ported intake........

are you running TD 16" wheels on 13" cobra rotors?

I swear I've seen that done before, but now I can't find a picture or any info about it........ if thats the case I think those wheels are calling my name........


I need to take this beast to Moroso and get my name on the Top 10 as it sits now....... its running really strong when it wants to...... can't wait to see how she rides with the Flywheel and y pipe....

 

[BlackonBlack89]

Yea i bought two of them just for racing. They are discontiuned now I think. Check with SHOnut. Actually I think SHONut has 2 left as the pair I ordered finally came in. He said the order was cancelled but turns out he got them like 3 months later. (He sold me a used pair he had)

If you want to do intake mods I say do EH, $350 but it shows solid 10WHP/TQ over the entire powerband. Also theres a spec stage 2 clutch on fleabay for cheap. That would be a great clutch for 300 bucks.

Names Justin

 

[38SHO]

this is the clutch disc I was thinking about....

I like their hub designs... little more stout then your everyday stock rebuild type clutches.... I've had springs fail on me before, rip right out of the hub and get stuck in the PP...... sucks when that happens

http://www.clutchnet.com/product.php?productid=10394&cat=0&page=1

who does extrude honing these days?

 

[BlackonBlack89]

Theres a new place up here in PA. The website is Boneheadperformance.com. They are 50 cheaper than other places. 355 for the SHO intake. PLus there powdercoting options are cheap along with their ceramic coating. They wanted 75-85 bucks IIRC to do the exhaust mani's. Thats pretty cheap

 

[38SHO]

I work next to a powdercoating place, so that takes care of that lol.... who knows how good of a deal he really cuts me though, I've never comparison shopped......


355 for the runners?

 

[SHOtime2511]

save the $ and turbo that ******. N/A sucks

 

[Jonny Cash]

Why not just keep it stock?

idk man, Ive only been here for two years but.. Having no A/c for 20# of weight savings is pretty ridiculous in a car you drive everyday.

8lb flywheel
ceramic tob
catless y-pipe
lightweight plastic racing seats

In a DD that will get old fast. Especially the flywheel.

 

[BlackonBlack89]

The flywheel is not even noticable...sometimes I forget I even have it.

Plastic seats however.. well I like the stockers


And brian I agree. Thats what I did

 

[38SHO]

Why not just keep it stock?

idk man, Ive only been here for two years but.. Having no A/c for 20# of weight savings is pretty ridiculous in a car you drive everyday.

I've lived in south florida all my life, I work outside all day long... I don't need air conditioning even in my house... I'm just use to it.. being outside in the heat is normal to me

 

[38SHO]

and its not just those 20 lbs, or those 100 pounds of seat, or 50 pounds of sound deadener... or the 10 pounds of amps and the 40 pound subwoofer..... all that stuff adds up... I didn't gut everything out of my car... but I got the big stuff..... I have like 3 more inches of wheelgap in the rear now that I lightened it.......

makes a noticeable difference....... I drive my car like 4 miles a day....

look in my sig at my rear tire, see the flag behind it.. that part is like 3-4 times greater distance.... I have like 6" wheel gap in the front.......

the only real bad part about these plastic seats is climbing out of the car with my fat ass....... but one sharp turn makes you forget all about that.........