My Car is Evil Too.

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TheVancen

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Not sure if its for the same reason as ruby, but who knows. Here's the problem. I'll link of a video of the car running once its uploaded. Here's the thread and OppositeLock article where I introduced myself and the car.
http://www.shoforum.com/index.php?threads/first-car-is-a-sho.128282/
http://oppositelock.kinja.com/guysguysguys-1619843038

Just changed the plugs and wires as well as valve cover gaskets. In this process I removed the intake manifold to get to all this. Before I did all this the plug well seals were toast so there was a ton of oil around all of the spark plugs, and I believed this to be the cause of my misfires and poor idle quality.

After changing all of this it ran great for a few minutes until the car warmed up and the miss came back more violently than ever. It has a rough and inconsistent idle and it misses and stumbles at part throttle under 2500 rpm. Anything over that and it feels like a champ. Its worst at highway cruising speeds.

Another thing I noticed was that when it has one of its more violent fits, the heater freaks out and almost looks like it resets its self, the display blinks off and on then all the bits of lights in the heater display light up like it does when you start the car. Another thing is that there is a strong smell of unburnt fuel when it has these fits.

Up to this point i have changed the following.

-The ENTIRE brake system. All of it.
-a used set of Continental tires.
-Fuel and Air filters
-Oil and Filter (Fram filter and Shell Rotella 10w30)
-Spark plugs (I used E3s, part number E3 48)
-Plug wires (Some off brand from Rockauto, I dont like them, they'll be going away next pay)
-Serpentine belts
-Both front wheel bearings
-Lower Control arms

I've asked a few old Ford guys around town who may have worked on these in the past, and they say it could be anything from a bad fuel pump or cam position sensor to the PCM. So I'm here for the definitive, professional opinion.

Also, for things like the DIS and PCM, I'm not 100% sure what they all are, so knowing what they are and where they are located would be a great help.

Video here
 
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luigisho

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The DIS is the distributorless ignition system module. That is the rectangular module on the side of the intake with wiring plugs on both ends. The PCM is the computer and that is located behind the glove box and sticks through the firewall where the wiring harness plugs into it and also has a bolt in the middle of the wiring harness plug that secures it to a threaded hole in the PCM.

You should start with pulling the codes in the computer and see what is stored in there. http://web.archive.org/web/20090917070939/http://www.shophoenixproject.com/eec/eec.htm
 

SHOdded

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Blame it on the sunroof :)

Def, pull codes first. Not sure E3 plugs will do well in the SHO, or really any other application. Stick with Motorcraft or Autolite finewire/double platinums for best longterm results.

Make sure plug wires are in the correct order, the aftermarket manuals tend to get that wrong. Here is a small list of checkoff items that might be useful:
http://shoforum.com/index.php?threa...ter-extensive-maintenance.97754/#post-1025761
http://www.shoforum.com/index.php?threads/plug-wire-routing.89091/

Plug wires successfully used around the forum:
Motorcraft WRE-4081, AC DELCO 16-826Q, or TAYLOR (TAY-74268, TAY-74668)

This post contains info about the DIS and heatsink paste:
http://shoforum.com/index.php?threa...no-spark-from-first-coil.101302/#post-1069425
 
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rubydist

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sounds like you have an intermittent power or ground issue, from your description.
 

TheVancen

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sounds like you have an intermittent power or ground issue, from your description.
OK. By the way, would the ground strap to the hood cause this if it was broken or missing? Because mine is both. Other wise I'll check the one off the back of the intake.
 

TheVancen

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Blame it on the sunroof :)

Def, pull codes first. Not sure E3 plugs will do well in the SHO, or really any other application. Stick with Motorcraft or Autolite finewire/double platinums for best longterm results.

Make sure plug wires are in the correct order, the aftermarket manuals tend to get that wrong. Here is a small list of checkoff items that might be useful:
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=69573
http://www.shoforum.com/showpost.php?p=1025761&postcount=10
93rev2sev - 03-29-2009

Plug wires successfully used around the forum:
Motorcraft WRE-4081, AC DELCO 16-826Q, or TAYLOR (TAY-74268, TAY-74668)

This post contains info about the DIS and heatsink paste:
http://www.shoforum.com/showpost.php?p=1069425&postcount=14
hawkeye18 - 07-28-2009

Sorry, search on the forum is not working for me at all, so I can't post the correct links right now.
OK. Got some copper plugs going to try that, pulling codes now, also going to do an oil change. 7 years worth of sludge to drain out of there.
 

luigisho

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Fancy multiprong plugs tend not to run well in the spark waste ignition design of these cars. You want double plat or iridium for longevity. The copper will run fine but you may have to change them more frequently. Also, many of us were sure the plug wires were installed in the right order and had to come back to fix that so double check it with a correct schematic
 

thebigbadsho

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Not sure if the problem was resolved, but my 92 was doing the same thing. I had to replace the coil pack, the DIS and the CPS. I had my mechanic throw in a water pump and timing belt when he replaced the CPS since its all in the timing cover. I had a little bit more trouble when my front cam seal was leaking and getting on the CPS. hope that helps.
 

SHOdded

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Not nitpicking at all, just clarifying ... CPS = camshaft position sensor, CKS = crankshaft position sensor. CKS is the one behind the timing cover, and can be a real pain to get right.
 

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