MTX rebuild

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deven.coffey

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I hate to do this to you guys since there are a lot of threads out there on our transmissions, but I haven't found any definitive answers to my questions which are as follows:

-Are any parts on the MTX pre-loaded? (aka is it gonna explode on me if I just try to crack it open? I'm guessing no from what I've read but this tends to be something one wants a definite yes or no to.)

-Is there anywhere I can get parts for a rebuild? So far my searches have yielded used parts or whole transmissions that have already grenaded (someone mentioned a shop in NY that did fantastic work on a guys gen 3 auto for about 400 bucks)

If there is no good source of new parts does anyone have experience with having them made? Since I know some of you 400+ guys have had to have rebuilt your tranny at some point for that much power...

I would prefer a complete rebuild but at the very least I need a new second and reverse sychro

I also live in eastern washington (state) so any shop more than a state or two over is out of the question
 

rubydist

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no, it does not explode when you split the halves apart. you do want to have the bolts removed for the shift detent and the reverse idler first, though.

there are no replacements for some of the bearings. good luck making one of those...

blocking rings are obsolete but you can still find good used ones here and there, and you might be able to pry some nos ones out of the hands of some of the guys here on the forum. then again, you might have to wait until they have no pulse first...
 

deven.coffey

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Alright then follow up question, are there any other transverse 5 speeds that will bolt up to our motor? I'm actually swapping the motor/tranny into a fiero since a drunk blew the car apart. So a tranny swap is always possible if there are some with a more substantial aftermarket.
 

JATO

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The Probe GT with a 3.0 Vulcan has a 5 speed that'll bolt up. Or you can take the chance on a used transmission like I did and get a "smooth as butter" shifting unit.
 

waffles

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Ditto on the reverse, I always clutch in, move the stick to 3rd (or whatever I feel like that day) Then try to engage reverse. Never grinds, but you may have to do it several times.
 

AREA 91

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I highly recommend you get the differential roll pins welded. They are known to eject, resulting in a hole punched through the case. This would mean you would need to find another tranny. There are a few members (like me) that offer this service.
 

deven.coffey

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Ditto on the reverse, I always clutch in, move the stick to 3rd (or whatever I feel like that day) Then try to engage reverse. Never grinds, but you may have to do it several times.

I always used first. Good to know it takes a few tries by design.

How much would a tranny for parts run me from one of the guys that I know have piles of them? (if anyone here has sold/bought a tranny from the guys here)

Or depending on price, a tranny known to be good/ already rebuilt?

EDIT: Area 91 thanks for the heads up on the diff pins. I had seen that as the most common cause on here for a tranny grenading and wasn't aware a simple weld will prevent the issue. Sounds like the cam gears on the gen III
 
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rubydist

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If I were doing that swap into the Fiero (which I have considered) I would use the Fiero 5 speed from their V6 with whatever adapter it would take. From all I have read, that is a decent trans and it shifts much better than the Mazda we have.
 

deven.coffey

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that I did not know. Perhaps the getrag I drove was a beat up unit. I'll have to see if you can keep the stock mounting points for the getrag and still fit a SHO motor in with an adapter...

I know the getrag is certainly tougher than our trans so that would be a good option for adding FI later
 

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