MTX problem changing gears

[newby92]

also if you change the rear main seal check the shaft for any wear marks,if you have any you will have to purchase a speedy sleave to make up for the wear. dont skip this step or it will leak,no questions asked. i am going through this now, 5,000 miles on the car and i have to rip it all back apart to put a $5 part on the rear main shaft. annoying. o yeah just so you know timken makes them and they are readily available

 

[Warduke]

Went to the mechanic today because my car has been there for 2 days to see whats going on. I opted to go with the stock replacement made by Valeo. He installed it but the throw out berring that came with it didnt fit so he is getting a new one. He said the old throwout berring was so bad that it was broken into pieces. He let me look around the car while it was on the lift, I noticed there was some rust around one of the ears on the subframe that the bushing attaches to so im thinking of replacing that as well as long as I can find one in the junk yard that is in good condition. Since he wont charge me any extra labor I am going to try and replace the subframe, the subframe bushings as well as the control arm bushings and ball joints. I also noticed my front motor mount was slightly cracked so I figure Ill replace that thing too, the other mounts were in good condition. Im waiting for a price quote on the parts. The shaft in the transmission that connects to the clutch or engine was in good conditions the splines were ok and the clutch fork was in pretty good condition as well. Not sure what shaft newby92 was referring to when changing the rear main seal.

 

[Warduke]

I just talked to the mechanic, he says the throwout berring that came with the clutch wasnt the right one, he got the right one but he says there is a clip missing that holds the throwout berring in place and he has to go to the dealership to get. Does this make any sense? He also quoted me $200 for a subframe in pretty good condition from a slavage place What do you guys think?

 

[93rev2sev]

The clip is an installation aide. Anything can be used, including a zip tie(a really small one).

$200 isn't bad for the subframe, especially if it includes the labor for the control arm and tension strut replacement.

 

[Warduke]

He said he wont charge any extra labor since the subframe is out of the car already. Ill tell him to just use a small ziptie as I dont want to wait till tomorrow until he gets the clip.

 

[93rev2sev]

It just keeps the TOB from falling off the input shaft while the trans is mated to the block, so if he has no zipties that small, tell him to use a tiny cotter pin.

 

[Warduke]

Hes saying the part is a spring that connects to the clutch fork. When he took apart the trans form the engine the throut berring and spring were broken into many pieces. Hes also trying to charge me $340 for the clutch kit and I have to wait until tomorrow which will make it 3 days he has had my car already. Im starting to think this guy is blowing smoke up my ass.

 

[93rev2sev]

$500 for labor and done in 3 days would be a great deal. Supply your own parts.

 

[Warduke]

Ok Ill be more patient lol Thanks for the advice.

 

[cooch]

i had the same problem and ended up blowing out the shifter handle wear it connects to the rod that runs to the trans. good idea not driving it. now im dead in the water so if you hear something good get back to me please

 

[93rev2sev]

Cooch, check your ***.

 

[Warduke]

I have come to the conclusion that 75% mechanics I have come across are scumbags, After the work is done this guy told me that since the berring that came with the clutch kit was supposedly "the wrong one" I had to pay $80 for a new throwout berring he got from the dealer ship. YEAH RIGHT. not in this life time, then he told me the clutch kit was $380 and goes to explain Im a mechanic I get a discount because if you had to buy it it would be $430. Nice try. Once I told him that I knew he was full of shit and I knew the prices of stock VALEO clutches to be no more than $280 he quickly decided not to charge me for the throwout berring he supposedly got from the dealer ship and dropped the price of the clutch. Jeez, these people try to really stick it in you ********. Atleast he did a good job and put everything together the way it was supposed to. That being said it is like having a new car. It takes 50% less pressure now to push in the clutch pedal and it shifts much smoother and feels great. Lesson learned is I have to start buying air tools and a compressor so I can do these types of jobs myself, its the only way not to get ***** by mechanics and to make sure the job gets done the way I want it in my time frame.