MTX problem changing gears

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Warduke

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Lately the past few days when I push the clutch pedal in you can hear a ticking noise and the clutch pedal vibrates and rattles when pushed all the way to the floor and today the car stopped going into any gear when pressing in the clutch pedal. The only time I could get it into gear is by forcing it with alot of strength and I stopped driving the car since it started doing this. Is this the clutch itself or the throw out bearing or something else? How much does a job like this cost to repair?
 
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NotSoSlowSHO

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The throwout bearing is in the process of EATING the clutch pressure-plate fingers.

A clutch job is in your future.

Unless you can handle it, expect estimates anywhere from $500 - $1200 for the job.
 

Mark in PDX

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I concur.. I just bought a 94 that had this problem.. You describe what I had going on perfectly and I had to replace the clutch... Sooner rather than later.
Mark
 

Warduke

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The throwout bearing is in the process of EATING the clutch pressure-plate fingers.

A clutch job is in your future.

Unless you can handle it, expect estimates anywhere from $500 - $1200 for the job.

What type of clutch should I buy? I do alot of stop and go driving, also what kind of lightweight flywheels are out there that are good? Anything else I should have changed while this work is being done?
 

Ishodu

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I would say a stock clutch if your not racing it or hammering shifts. As far as lightweight flywheels go you can get a Fidnenza or spec. You will want to change the release shaft bushings, and maybe the release fork if its worn uneven. And it never hurts to change the roll pins in the diff if you can do that. Axle seals would be a great idea as well.
 

itwonder

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What type of clutch should I buy? I do alot of stop and go driving, also what kind of lightweight flywheels are out there that are good? Anything else I should have changed while this work is being done?

A lifetime warranty pressure plate and clutch disk from Autozone. Buy a ceramic TOB and shaft felt washer from shonutperformance.com. Take your disk to an automotive machine shop and have it resurfaced. They can remove and reinstall the alignment pins, you do not need new ones. There are no new clutch forks available, so either polish up the on you have and reuse it, or buy one for a Contour and have a machine shop bore the shaft hole to the required diameter for the SHO.
 
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Warduke

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Is there a pilot bearing/bushing on these cars? Any good flywheels that arnt $250? What improvements would I feel if I changed or fixed the clutch fork?
 

SHO#7

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Clutchmasters stage 1 clutch kit. Or stock.

Leave the flywheel alone. Just machine it. YOu will not like a lightweight flywheel in stop and go traffic. Change your subframe bushings and engine mounts while it is apart. Also plan on a rear main engine oil seal.

Mike
 

Warduke

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Thanks for all the info guys, I want to get as much stuff out of the way as I can. I got a quote form a mechanic I know for $500 for labor so well see how things go.
 

Warduke

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Im starting to order parts, I saw some clutch kits on rock aut, which one is a better one or equal to stage 1?


someone also said they dont make clutch forks for these cars any more but I found this. Is this the right one I need?

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?parttype=700&ptset=A&searchfor=Clutch+Fork

How many subframe bushings do i need to buy? 2 or 4?

I know theres 1 tranny mount, how many engine mounts?

Whats the difference between the flex plate and the fly wheel? whats the flex plate for?
 
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Ishodu

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There are 4 sub frame bushings. 1 tranny mount and 2 motor mounts, Front and Rear. A flywheel is for mounting a clutch on, the flex plate is what is used with a auto tranny. YOur link didn't work.
 

itwonder

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Im starting to order parts, I saw some clutch kits on rock aut, which one is a better one or equal to stage 1?
someone also said they dont make clutch forks for these cars any more but I found this. Is this the right one I need?
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?parttype=700&ptset=A&searchfor=Clutch+Fork
whats the flex plate for?

That's the right fork, but just try to order it...it's not available from any Warehouse. You can probably cleanup, polish, and reuse your fork. I would not buy any clutch kit from Rockauto because you have to pay their high shipping charges, and pay again if you have a warranty return. I would buy my kit from Autozone or Partsamerica.com where your get LLT warranty, free shipping, and warranty return to local stores if required. Flexplate is not applicable to the SHO.
 

NotSoSlowSHO

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Buying a part like a clutch because of a sweet warranty is ********.

The clutch is the CHEAP part of the deal. The spendy part is the labor.

Dont put a junk clutch in it, no matter how sweet the warranty. You will only be digging into it again to replace it soon.
 

dohcsable

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Buying a part like a clutch because of a sweet warranty is ********.

The clutch is the CHEAP part of the deal. The spendy part is the labor.

Dont put a junk clutch in it, no matter how sweet the warranty. You will only be digging into it again to replace it soon.

Agreed, a stock valeo, spec stg 1-2, or a cm1 would be perfect.

Andrew
 

zak

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There is a way to keep your next clutch's fingers from being eaten prematurely . . . . might want to consider it (SHOnut TOB)
 

Warduke

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Stupid question...but have you tried adjusting the clutch pedal yet?

Its not an adjustment issue, I tried what the manual reccomended and it didnt help, I dont think something this loud would be easy to fix with just a pedal adjustment. I can hear the grinding of the bearing getting caught up in the clutch and moving all over the place. The pervious owner told me the clutch was replaced almost 3 years ago and figured it would need to be replaced soon. Last month the mechanic who changed my oil said there was something wrong with the clutch the way it was engaging when he released the pedal so I figured Id drive it till it failed. I was able to drive it till the clutch wouldnt completely disengage and it is now in the shop.
 
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zak

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Its possible you may have popped one of the four springs out on the clutch disc itself.
 

newby92

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yeah i would stay away from the light weight flywheel in stop and go traffic. the engine rpms drop very rapidly and makes it so you have to shift very quickly expecially in lower rpms. it gets annoying after awhile and is just easier and less expensive to stick with the stocker for the type of driving you do.
 

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