Misfires?

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SHOguy 92

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Misfires? Just ran codes??????

My 91's been acting up for less than a week. First time it did it just once, I didn't think much of it, then it happened more the next day, then even more. And it seems to be getting worse. When the car is not moving just idleing it idles high about 1000-1150 rpms. The surging mostly happens off the start of each gear and the tach jsut bounces lower and lower and I have to ride the clutch to keep motion. I have changed the TPS, unplugged the MAf, and cleaned the IAB, none of them has solved it. I am right now changing the electric solenoid on the end of the IAB. Next guesses are, DIS, Spark Plugs, Spark Plug wires, after that I don't know maybe Cam Sensor? No CE light comes on in the car.

*EDIT* Just replaced the solenoid on the end of the IAB, changed the DIS, today I'm gonna try spark plug wires. :mad:
 

ALWyzBrknSHO

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JDthePolarbear said:
Did you run the codes?

I think all three of us are having the same problem, and I STILL havent checked those codes, grrrr. I'll get to it today (Friday) and let you all know. I think its some kind of misfire though.
 

SHOguy 92

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ALWyzBrknSHO said:
I think all three of us are having the same problem, and I STILL havent checked those codes, grrrr. I'll get to it today (Friday) and let you all know. I think its some kind of misfire though.

JD isn't having problems, must be only me and you, aren't we so fortuneate? But nope haven't ran codes.... yet, guess thats first thing tomorrow :bonk:

Also the car has died on me 3 times leaving stop signs in 2 weeks, now thats not that much. But when it died it literally started like 2 seconds later, I was still rolling all I did was press the clutch down and it fired right up no problem.
 

AutoSHO

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Change your plugs and wires at the same time, and replace your valve cover gaskets while you're at it. There's oil trapped in the plug wires, causing the spark to arc across the insulator of the plug, to ground. Simply changing the wires won't do because the plugs already have carbon trails on them, and will provide an easy path for the misfiring to continue.
 

SHOguy 92

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So I ran the codes.......... And I have never ran codes before, so I don't know, I don't know if these are right.

I ran the Key On Engine Off test and here is the EXACT order I got the beeps in......
1... 1... 1... 1... 1... 4... 9... 4... 9...
So the codes I supposedl;y got was 11, 11, 14, 94, and 9???
Thats why I think it's not right, I must have done something wrong, 9 isn't a code and 11, means system ok, but it gave me 2 11's?

Then I ran the Key On Engine On test and heres what I got.......
1... 8... 7... 7... 1... 2...
So 18, 77, 12 That doesn't make much sense to me either?

Then I ran the Cylinder tests and it gave me the code 99, thats about the only one out of all of them that made any sense at all.
 

Rockledge

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A few of the codes you posted are ignition related (14, for example), but a couple others don't really make sense. Keep in mind that there are no single digit codes, so "9" is not viable. And I don't think your SHO has a Secondary AIR system (smog equipment), so the code "94" is questionable, as well.

You should try and confirm the codes by reading them again.
 

roswell998

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It may be worthwhile for you to do a search and study the procedure to run codes. I have a 93 with 3 digit codes but I assume most of the procedure to check your codes is the same.

Specifically, note that there are separater blinks/tones before self test starts and then between self test and stored codes. Also, the self test codes will run through twice and then the stored codes will run through twice.

Always, always run codes before replacing components :thumb:

Also it's a good idea to run them first before posting because you can be guaranteed that will be the first question asked.:)
 

Bizzy

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SHOguy 92 said:
1... 1... 1... 1... 1... 4... 9... 4... 9...

11...11...<--hard faults...(separator flash)...memory codes--> 49...49???

From Dalidesign.com
FAST CODES

Fast codes contain the fault information output in the normal slow codes but are output about 100 times faster.
These are the first things output on a Key On Engine Off test.

HARD FAULTS

Hard faults are problems that the computer has located RIGHT NOW. Examples are a sensor out of range or a broken wire (open circuit).

Hard faults are the FIRST set of slow codes output in a Key On Engine Off test. BEFORE the SEPARATOR pulse.

In a Key On Engine Running test, there are ONLY HARD FAULT codes. These are output right after the fast codes.

SEPARATOR PULSE

The separator pulse is a single pulse that indicates the END of hard fault codes and the BEGINNING of memory codes.
It will show up as a code 10 on most digital testers.

MEMORY CODES

Memory codes are problems that the computer has noticed in the past. If for example there was a loose wire to a solenoid that only lost contact while driving but was making contact while testing the system there would be NO HARD FAULT CODE. The code would show up IN MEMORY. The same would happen for a sensor that only went out of range occasionally. Memory codes come out AFTER the separator pulse.

NOTE: The computer will erase the memory after a certain number of engine re-starts if the problem does not repeat itself. The number of re-starts varies from 20 to 80 depending on the year of the vehicle. The later models keep memory longer.

Just out of curiosity, are you leaving any flashes out, like the separator flashes specifically?

Also remember all codes are presented in sequence twice. Are you getting the same series of flashes twice? Or is that all you get period?

Given that this is your first time running them it can be confusing. I'm just trying to clarify exactly what you saw. If you had a camera that did mpg's that would be cool so you could view them right from your computer. :)
 

SHOguy 92

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Yeah thats all the flashed I got period, I ran the codes a good 8 times, and thats all I kept getting. I read the insructions on how to do it, yet something just doesn't seem right? theres like these blinks right when it starts each test that are REALLY fast you can barely see them, the CE light doesn't even fully illuminate before it's gone. It's just werid. But I'm thinking it is the CID or CPS. CID sounds more like it. The car is starting to die on me at random times, but not while in gear driving. Like if I am down shifting holding the clutch it will go down to 1000rpms sometime like normal but other times it keeps dropping and dies, and i start it while I am still rolling, it's still starts fine. Thats why I believe it's the CID, but I can't locate the CID. Done searches, still have no idea where it is!
 

mrclean

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If you look at the side of the motor on the passenger side behind the ps fluid resovoir, down by the pulleys, you'll seee it, its sort of hard to describe it, but its on the passenger side near the rear of the motor about like halfway down the motor. Kind of confusing, but it'll make sense if you look where I'm telling you, because I replaced mine, and it made it so the car would actually start again.
 

Rockledge

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SHODISComponents.jpg
 

beaudeen

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Surging...

Hey..have the same problem on my 95 mtx....seems to only happen when she's warm....stop and go traffic....have to ride the clutch to get going as the idle drops off...surges under hard acceleration...smooth when you apply gas pedal slowly...that's why I don't think it's an ignition problem...she pulls hard if you gradually apply the gas pedal....has anyone corrected this fault...read a few threads, but know one has posted what fixed it....hope to hear a fix...thanks guys
 

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