MegaSquirt install writeup

[gmail]

ok this will be a working progress so im starting off with some pictures.

now i recommend you get yourself a ford service CD then print out the pinout of the computer like i did so you can sit down and solder this up.

also for a note the picture of the connector will be backwards if you have the PCM in front of you looking at it trying to match the picture up with the connector i have in the one picture.

example one side will end with 20/40/60 that will actually be the other side of the picture shown if your looking at the computer..
this will be very important since you will run into a lot of problems if wired wrong.

now this way i did it was what worked for me and was basicly something i did at first to wire this up and it has changed a lot over time, so it might look a bit crude but remember you can do this anyway you want.

also on the PCM i did break the stock connection with certain things like injectors, ignition output or SPOUT, coolant and air intake temp sensors (because the factory uses dual resistors which makes both the stock computer and the MS mad, conflicting readings).

now for things like butterflies i just got the wire end of the pin out and soldered it directly to the wire i am running it with. you can see this with the picture of the wires inside the stock PCM.

everything but fan control, CLT and IAT sensors as well as TPS stuff, PIP or crank and also cam sensors, power, grounds and sensor ground are wired directly to the PCM on the bottom side like the one picture showing a 3.8 wagon computer solder points.

they are sharing connections with the stock PCM and MS.

all other connections have been removed from the stock PCM and no longer are used by the PCM but are used only by the MS.. now this is mixed and matched since i was testing things are first.. so some things are still soldered to factory solder points then just scratched away the stock connection lines you can see in the pictures, then other things are completely removed as i have listed..

in the next few updates ill try and show pictures of these, what ill do is use the 3.8 computer i have here then solder(share)/remove pins to give a better idea what i am talking about..

i had removed the whole connector with a desoldering iron to make it easier on myself.

also hot glue is key to keeping things from moving around and causing any kind of shorts, as well as a means to keep things from coming loose....

as for the fuel pump there is a few ways to go about this.. easiest would be wire the high side of the pump and call that done. another is use the low side then kick the high side in at set rpm or set manifold pressure..
there is actually someone on the MS forum who has done something like this.. he basicly is running dual fuel pumps, one is for normal driving, the other kicks on at a set boost to run the high end..

setting certain commands to happen at any trigger is very easy with MS.
you can set things to kick on or off, or take readings or really anything you can imagine to come on with triggers like rpm or temp or whatever, even time frames if you want. also you can set more then one type of trigger with a set of rules...
like i said, its up to you.

anyways ill continue more later on. as of now ill just show the pictures i have taken.

 

[91PDXmocha]

Cool, this is the kinda stuff I like to see . Not the bickering of what is better blah blah. I like to see this stuff go through the processes of being installed,modified,updated on our application and what not. Nice work and awaiting results

 

[firebat45]

Just in case anyone is curious on how to remove the huge connector from the board, you can bake the whole board in a toaster oven or a real oven at around 400-450 for 10 or so minutes, and then just pluck things out of it while it's still hot. The board has a waxy coating though, so it stinks a bit, don't do it in the same toaster you use for food.

 

[WSC-SHO]

Wow, talk about a tech write up! Kudos to you sir and keep us updated!

 

[gmail]

Just in case anyone is curious on how to remove the huge connector from the board, you can bake the whole board in a toaster oven or a real oven at around 400-450 for 10 or so minutes, and then just pluck things out of it while it's still hot. The board has a waxy coating though, so it stinks a bit, don't do it in the same toaster you use for food.

yeah actually on the rubbery stuff they use to coat it can be removed a lot of ways.. there is a chemical to dissolve they stuff off but i can not remember it.
the way i did it was i a brass metal wire brush and it came right off no issues.



the way i recommend everyone to install the MS would be to bypass the computer all together, dont do what i did unless you wanna keep it simple and keep cruise control...

im sure you can wire up cruise control directly to MS but its something i didnt wanna tackle.
long as i leave the stock computer on it will run cruise control for me no problems..

i dont have time for a update at the moment but hoping to get more here later tonight or tomorrow..

like i said if someone has a question please ask, ill do everything i can to answer the question.
if you like i can also get you links to tech write ups as well to help in the understanding.

in all its really not that hard to figure everything out, more so because i took time to get a lot of funny issues figured out for you.

 

[sperold]

I would like to know the basics of the megasquirt system:
Does this take the place of the engine management system that came with the car?
It has 20 pins (or so), does this look after everything in running the motor?
Does it look after the sensors (like temp and O2) that feed into the operating system?
Is its best feature the fact you can program things to your specifications?
Is this what you would use to put a SHO motor in another car?
Sorry to sound so uninformed, but I get left behind if I don't have an overall concept concerning a new topic.
Thanks for bringing up this topic, as it will probably prolong the life of SHO motors that are now orphans, due to the car body not holding up.

 

[gmail]

I would like to know the basics of the megasquirt system:
Does this take the place of the engine management system that came with the car?
It has 20 pins (or so), does this look after everything in running the motor?
Does it look after the sensors (like temp and O2) that feed into the operating system?
Is its best feature the fact you can program things to your specifications?
Is this what you would use to put a SHO motor in another car?
Sorry to sound so uninformed, but I get left behind if I don't have an overall concept concerning a new topic.
Thanks for bringing up this topic, as it will probably prolong the life of SHO motors that are now orphans, due to the car body not holding up.

yes this can take the place of the PCM that came factory. or you can piggy back it in several ways... you could use it to run fuel alone or spark alone or even other fuctions. or even run the whole car.

it can have as many pins as you want it to really.. yes it can look after everything in the car, all sensors both stock and aftermarket. there is even a feature that lets you program what is called generic sensors which can range from so many things including pressure sensors for N2O or anything you could come up with.
personally tho i have not hooked up a knock sensor which can be your preference to do or not.
once you get a good tune the knock sensor can be obsolete.
also i am running a wideband o2 for my air fuel ratio readings, so right now i have the stock o2 sensors in the car doing nothing, which isnt far from what they did before

its best feature i think is its flexability to do anything or cater to anyones needs really.. not saying this is limitless but for any automotive application its about as end all as it gets.

and yes this is the only thing i would recommend to use a SHO in another car, or for that matter any engine in anything.
there is guys running crazy stuff with the MS.. id have to look but someone is running a weed wacker or chain saw or something with it... im almost sure it was a chainsaw for like the competition stuff.

id recommend if you used a SHO in something else redo the spark system like upgrade to a 36-1 wheel for the crank which helps increase the accuracy of the spark. then remove the DIS all together and run COPs

my setup is running everything the stock car uses to run..
you can unplug my MS and plug a stock computer back into the car as if nothing had ever happened.

i really recommend you spend sometime on the websites for MS. one would be diyautotune.com for all the products they offer... another is type in something in google like megasquirt 3 forum then surf the forum they have which can give you a idea of the creativity behind the people who use this product...
it really seems like the possibilities are almost endless of what can be done.

they even have things like traction control much like all newer cars use.


anyways ill have more pictures and info up tonight of my setup to give ideas how its done..

but yes good questions. dont matter if you are behind or not this helps for others who might search in the future and give them a starting point

 

[gmail]

ok at the bottom ill include the pictures of a few things to give you the idea how it would be wired...
the only thing i didnt show was how you would put a wire to the solder points. i figured that much you could figure out, just simply heat up the solder and add a wire..

i recommend using 18 - 20 gauge wire and also use the single strand wire that i use. dont use the ones with multiple wires as it makes it harder to solder, also the single wire it more rigid making another plus.

anyways you can see how i scratched out the connection from the pin to the board in the one picture.. those little lines are what you wanna scratch out.

what you wanna do it for example on each injector scratch out the line that goes to each injector.
ill include the pinout of the computer to show what is what and ill label where it gets connected and what gets removed etc.

for some of the injectors you would scratch out the line on top side which will be when you take the cover off that says ford.
also to do this you will need a t15 to take the torque bolts out.

what you wanna do it have a multimeter with you at all times to check each pin and make sure you break the connections that are needed to be broke and to test your connection as well as others to make sure you didnt solder 2 pins together or something else.

the best place to test and be sure you broke the connection in the stock computer is go to ground (pin 40 or 60 on any MTX computer) and the other side to a injector wire. if you get a reading there is a connection, no reading then your good and can take the wire for the MS to the pin.

see the reason you check the ground is because injectors are fired off by grounding them out. they all share the same power source or +. the difference comes in where the ground goes.
in a batch fire system you will want to wire bank 1 and bank 2 for the firing order. the gains probley are none but there is guys who claim it is better to do that way.

INJECTORS

PINOUT
58 = injector 1... this can be removed from the stock solder point and wired up like the picture shown with the wire connected to the pin i pictured.

59 = injector 2... this is the same as injector 1

12 = injector 3... this can be done the same as injector 1 and 2 but it also might be easier to do as i listed by scratching the line off and just soldering to the stock solder point.

13 = injector 4... same as injector 3

14 = injector 5... same as injector 3

15 = injector 6... same as injector 3

thats it for injectors.. pretty easy but if you remove the whole connector block off the board its super easy to just pull the pins out you need and remove their connection with the stock computer.

SPARK

next would be spark output or SPOUT..
this is very simple. long as you have the MS setup for TFI which i can explain later on all you need to do is connector 1 wire here

PINOUT

36 = SPOUT .. connect the wire like shown in the picture. this is really the best way. now since these wires come close to others you will wanna hot glue everything once its all tested for connection and its not reading on other wires.

also if you leave the pins in be very careful to get nothing on the multimeter because these pins go all over the PCM board so try and scratch out the connection close to the pin as possible...

SENSORS

now on to sensors..

these can be left in the solder points but be sure to break factory connection as it will give both the MS and stock PCM weird readings with the feedback.

PINOUT

7 = engine coolant temperature sensor.. this will be in a hard place to remove the pin from the PCM board but no fear this can be scratched out and soldered right to the pin.
what i recommend here is on the backside use tape or hot glue or something to protect the wires from the board.since the stock solder points threwout the board as very sharp and pointy, you might end up piercing into the wires which will give you a headache later trying to track it down...
i highly recommend securing everything in any manor possible.

25 = intake air temp sensor... this can be done either way but its in the middle to its easy to just wire like in the picture shown..

56 = PIP+ ... this is the crank sensor which is easy to wire up and dont need any other wires from this ran to the MS.. this can be wired like the intake air temp sensor.

47 = TPS .. this is the throttle position sensor... this will need to be wired special since you also need the vref wired up as well for a proper reading.
this is wired up like the picture as well..

26 = VREF or TPS volts... this is easy to wire up being in the middle just wire it as the picture.. this is pretty important tho so make sure you dont over look this.. this can be calibrated being that all sensors read different. also the temp sensors will need to be calibrated if using the stock MS resistors, you can buy the ford blue ones and solder then in place.. if someone needs them let me know i have a bag of 100. you only need 2.

21 = IAC or idle air control, idle air bypass. whatever you wanna call it.
again this is easy to wire up but you will also need to wire in a diode here so it reduced feedback. i dont know if it will work without the diode, i just soldering it in there to be safe since the MS manual told me to do this..
read up in the MS manual to see how its done.
what i did was remove the plug for the IAC, pull out the rubber inside it with a small pick then removed the wires out. then what i did was soldered the diode across the negative and positive side, put it all together and it worked perfect both with MS and the stock computer..
also on the IAC i have all the settings correct in my tune so you will not need to mess with this beyond setting where you want your idle.

24 = Cam sensor... this is straight foward just wire the cam wire off MS to this wire on the computer... you can do it like the picture or share it with the stock PCM and not even remove the connection line.

now for O2 sensors i did not use them since i ran wideband but if you want the pins they are....

29 = rear o2
43 = front o2

4 = also you will wanna make sure the connection is cut for the IDM which is pin 4. simple scratch it out and forget it... if you dont and you use MS to run spark it will get mad since the computer will be saying this and the DIS will be ready what the MS tell its.. basicly this will throw a check engine light which i have setup for my shift light..

46 = signal return... this is needed by the MS to check the negative side of all sensors for accurate readings making sure its what it needs to be...

41 = fuel pump high side...

22 = fuel pump low side...

32 = butterflies or intake manifold runner control.... this is something you will want and can be wired anyway you like.. i recommend like in the picture shown...

now we will get into the power, ground and fan control...

POWER

60 = ground... wire this directly to the stock solder point on the bottom side.. very easy and its recommend you let both computers share the power and ground so you still have crusie control.

40 = ground

dont use 20 its case ground and is not needed. besides it cause things to act up.

57 = power... this again like ground let the computers share this.

37 = power.... same as before but the extra ground and power isnt needed.. one will do but its your call.. no harm will be done from wiring both in.

this is another thing i like about doing it this way. the stock computer has fuses to protect it so this will work the same for the MS, therefor no need to add fuses. but you can if you like..
the MS is tough but a good volt spike will possibly **** the daughter card which can be replaced very easy or just blow the crystal then it will need replaced.

55 = fan ... this is easy just wire it like the picture, im not sure about sharing it with the stock computer, i would think it might be a issue...







alright well getting tired so i will continue more tomorrow.. ill add extra sensors like knock sensor and speedo etc...





heres the pics
















and for reference

 

[gmail]

remember that last picture will be backwards when you are looking at the computer like the picture shown. 60/40/20 will be on the right side and the others will be left.

tomorrow ill also include what wires on the MS go to the sensors..
i was trying to give a detailed writeup of the factory stuff first..
again dont let this stuff scare you its very simple and you dont have to do it this way. i did it because i wanted to be able to take it out and go back to stock if i wanted to. this made it cleaner and easier.

the best and most easy way would be to tap into the stock wiring harness...

i also been thinking that i might be willing to do a few computer, wire them up for people to use then test them out on my car to insure they work then send them back to people...

i relised that some people might view this as a lot of work or maybe hard to do and feel something might go wrong etc..

 

[gmail]

EXTRA SENSORS

PINOUT

3 = VSS + (vehicle speed sensors) im still working on the speedo function for MS, it is however not needed for anything but figured for EST HP, MPG accuracy or other features or settings speed related.. the thing is i had the speedo working but i was getting weird readings so i left this be for now and will get back to it in the future, for now tho im gonna include both the + and - side of the VSS in case it happens to be needed.

6 =VSS - both the + and - sides can be wired up for sharing for the PCM and MS. just simply solder it to the factory solder points and your good to go.. this is what you wanna do if you would like to keep factory cruise control.

2 = PSS (power steering switch) this would be a good idea to wire up if you want settings where the car will rev up some when turning the wheel so it dont die out.. me however i have my IAC up enough it dont bog the car down.

5 = BOO (brake on/off) this is the same idea as the PSS, both of these can be wired like anything else where you share or not its up to you.

9 = Mass airflow sensor return... this is totally optional for if you wanna run a MAF sensor which the MS can run any MAF you like.

50 = Mass air flow sensor ... this again is related to MAF setups and the wiring i would recommend cutting the stock connection since these readings would be vital, so no interference is seen..

23 = knock sensor.... this should also be ran to MS only since it would pickup interference possibly.. now currently im not sure if there is a way to use the stock sensor with MS but i do know knock sense works very well for MS and is very cheap. also includes mounting knock lights for in the car and headset options to listen for knock.. this thing really knocks the stock sensor out of the water. i recommend if using knock sense set it up so it can use the stock wiring. this to me makes sense since if you followed what i did you would wanna keep the ability to revert to stock.




i could include the wiring pinouts for the cruise control but to me it didnt seem reasonable since there is about 4 - 6 wires factory uses to control it.

also the stock computer controls the A/C system and that is done threw 3 wires. all and all i think thats easiest to let the factory use it.. but if you do then you need to let the stock PCM have VSS inputs and TPS inputs. if you remove them then it will not know what to do.

now like i said you could setup stuff for MS to run it but i just think its not worth it.. thats me but i guess you would have the ability to have full control and remove the factory computer completely that way..

for guys making race cars you really dont need to wire up much.. just a few simple wires and throw the dead weight of the factory computer out.

for someone trying to drop every possible pound MS is the smartest setup. simply remove the whole factory wiring harness and run a small harness for MS2, which is which version of MS i recommend since its much smaller and less stuff inside the MS, when you add all the extra stuff it can add a little more weight.

i would bet all together all the wiring harnesses in the car come in around 100 lbs or more.

my next write up i will include what wires to wire to MS connector.
you can and i recommend that you should buy a harness when you buy MS but you can save a lot of money making your own as i did.

also for the guys who wanna build the MS from scratch like i did i will tell you what mods need to be done to properly run MS on a stock SHO.

very easy ill explain more detail on it in another update but more or less wire it for 2 wire ford PWM IAC and TFI, thats about it really.

for anyone thats a DIYer this is a really fun project and gives you a good sense of pride when you build all this stuff... i remember the first time i got my car to run on MS i was pretty thrilled. after that i kept playing around more and more so i hit some bumps in the road but it was a good learning experience for me. not to mention its a very good tuning device with a ton of ability and very very flexible ...

 

[Sho Amo]

I think I just saw MS2 for around 265? If thats the case ill do this on my turbo car and put my r/t on the DD.

I see people are datalogging boost with the gm sensors. Can you also datalog AFRs and MPH?

 

[gmail]

I think I just saw MS2 for around 265? If thats the case ill do this on my turbo car and put my r/t on the DD.

I see people are datalogging boost with the gm sensors. Can you also datalog AFRs and MPH?

heres the beauty to the datalogs... you can datalog every single event in the car at one time and even change the speed it logs at.. even log all outside sensors etc. not to mention the datalog software has the ability to autotune for you for your fuel maps.
it even tunes the stuff humans cant figure..

comes with tech support and the whole 9.

if you dont mind doing some soldering work yourself and feel comfortable spending a few hours soldering it all up this would be a good kit

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/...gement-system-wpcb3-unassembled-kit-p-59.html

i could even give you a spare tuning cable i got, since the MS2 dont have a usb plug built in like the MS3 does.
also let you use my stim which is a good tool to have while building a MS, basicly it lets you know everything is working while you move on to the next steps. also can let you flash and build a tune before you put it on the car.


or if you wanna buy it right from them assembled.

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/...agement-system-wpcb3-assembled-unit-p-65.html


or also i remember SHOgodz talking about a company that build it and tunes it for you. from what he said was a fair price as well..

they also say about the ability to see up to 21 psi out of the box.. if for some reason you wanted to go higher they got other map sensors that can see 40+ psi

if you chose this route i recommend doing as much homework as you can before taking the step to do it... also for safety reasons start out at very low boost pressures until you get it all worked out. better safe then sorry.


also if you want with the get together you had planned i will bring along my 92 with the MS3 on it and give you guys a feel for it see the software, the ability to make changes while drive it.. **** dont even have to let off the throttle while changing fuel or spark... i actually did my spark tuning while drive it under heavy loads. you can check out the features on it etc.
with MS2 tho your looking at the ability to tune and run the car completely. with MS3 you get extra features like datalog on a SD card etc.

 

[Sho Amo]

This sounds interesting. Ill keep looking into it.

 

[SuperchargedSHOguy]

Great right up! I dicked around with a MS years ago on another vehicle and it was real easy to use as opposed to my experience with the TwEECer.
This thread deserves a sticky in this section!

 

[gmail]

yeah i got more to write up tonight.. i still got what wires go to what on MS plug/s .. then if building a MS from scratch as i did or even ordering one what options to set depending on what you wanna do like keep it stock or modify it.
what i mean is depending on what ignition setup you have or even what kind of IAC you have.

then i have to give examples of what to do in the tune and basic settings there..

so i got a little more to go yet. i wanna try and make it so someone can start from scratch and be able get it built with a fresh tune.

i think i might put some videos up also for some things that might be confusing to some.

i relise this might seem harder then just plugging the tweecer in. or the QH but the QH seems to be a bit more risky in my mind since its so loose how it sits in, having to bend stuff out of the way also.. well i guess they are both just as risky.. they dont seem to be safe in my mind because there is a risk they can fall out and do expensive damage like frying the PCM and the tuner itself.

yeah i know i damage the stock PCM but with my setup you wouldnt have the need to replace it because the MS will not fallout.

anyways back to the main point.
ill have to try and finish up the wiring writeup tonight.

 

[gmail]

now for MS 1/2/3 wiring you need to wire it like the top picture in this link

http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms3/hardware.html#wiring

there is only a few differences.. you dont need to use anything more then vref for tps and signal wire...

PIN OUTPUT

PINOUT ON DB37

PIN 22 is the TPS signal

PIN 25 is VREF for tps

PIN 24 is PIP signal.
the crank or pip only needs 1 wire unlike what is shown in the pinout in the link.
if you were making a wiring harness yourself to replace the factory then you need to wire as listed above.

PIN 1 and PIN 2 are both sensor grounds. they will be wired to sensor return from the stock PCM pinout.

PIN 23 is for wideband or narrow band you will only wire 1 side up. you dont need to wire it up as shown.
i installed my wideband by power and ground from a different source then just hooked up the signal wire.

PIN 30 is for PWM or IAC or IAB whatever you wanna call it.. wire this to the wire in the PCM but make sure somewhere you solder a diode across it like i mentioned above.
it might be best to read the MS writeups on this to give you a better idea.
i wired the diode inside the stock plug so its not even visible and the car works fine both stock PCM and MS.

PIN 28 is the power... this dont need to be fused being that stock has a fuse for this.. you can however fuse it if you like but i did not need to.

PIN 32/33 is for first set of injectors. you can wire this anyway you like, either each bank of injectors or in the firing order.

PIN 34/35 is for the second set of injectors.. this is the same as the first set.
also if using MSX for fully sequential then you can use these outputs for other operations. remember tho when these are used for something else they are only ground outputs and will not work with any positive side.
i used one of them to work my fan and the other is doing nothing.

PIN 14-19 is all ground.. all i did was wire them all together and use the ground pin in the PCM just like i did for power.

PIN 37 is the fuel pump relay.. now i recommend using this for the low side fuel pump relay and then use one of the spare IAC outputs (IAC1a or IAC1b or IAC2a or IAC2b) to run the high side fuel pump relay.
i can explain more later on how to set this up.
also if you want you could run just the high side relay to make it more simplified.
the IAC input will be negative and positive for example if you use IAC1a and have it set to be positive then IAC1b will be negative, this goes for the IAC2a/b as well. its all about your setting with these.
also when setting this up in the settings test your setting with the key on engine off. what you will wanna do is set you rpm or whatever to have it come kick the high side on then put the settings either greater then or less then and listen for the fuel pump.. then you will know if you have the settings right. if you dont hear it then try switching the power on settings to 0 or 1 etc.


IMPORTANT
also for your PIP sensor read the next step for PIN 32 on MSX card

MSX WIRING PIN OUTPUT

not much will be here except for a few things you will wanna add like launch control datalog start buttons for the SD card datalogging or n2o setting etc.

things you will need to sequential tho is injectors and cam input. the rest is up to you, if you wanna add sequential spark or whatever.

i will just list the pins you will need for sequential.

PIN 32 is for cam output. you will need to follow the information about upgrading from MS3 to MSX, it has how to adjust for hall effect magnets.
also this is needed for the main MS card for your crank sensor. see hall effect magnet or VR needs it own settings. its real simple. you turn a tiny flathead screw where the manual tells you to. thats it.

PINS 19/16/13/10/7/4 these are your injector pins, wire them in the firing order of the car 142536 is the firing order so make 19 go to injector 1 and then 16 to injector 4 etc etc.

PINS 2/3/8/12/17 are all grounds. do the same as for the MS 1/2/3 card wire all them together and put them on the PCM ground.
it might sound crowded but it will be fine. the MS and PCM dont use a whole lot of power so you will be fine.

now thats it.. you can do spare outputs for many many other things. that is completely up to you.. all i ment was to give you the idea how to get started on this setup.

also to give you a heads up i added another thing to mine.. i got my dash emblem wired up to the spare IAC output that is with the secondaries. so it will cause the dash emblem to come on with the blue LEDS i wired in once the secondaries hit.


most importantly about all this tho is make sure you use a timing light to get your spark trigger set.
i think this is some of the problem with the stock PCM. it goes off what ford says and thats not exactly right considering there is to many things that can cause it to be off.. simply being a older sensor could read off some or other things like wiring might not be grounding out properly.
so i really mean you need to get your trigger offset set. this can be done with trigger wizard in the tuning software.
all you do is get the car running, pull up your timing light and set the trigger wizard so its reading the same timing advance on the light and the settings.

if you have COP you need to remove a COP and install a stock wire between the spark plug and COP. i used duct tape to hold them together while i did this.. just be careful, remember the coil packs a **** of a punch.

in my tune i got the trigger tooth settings for you if you use fully sequential, if not then you can set it to be a basic trigger and go from there.

if anyone got a question dont be afraid to ask ill do my best to answer it

 

[gmail]

ill have to write more up here soon been busy with some stuff

 

[Falconvan]

Great thread; Im convinced.

 

[gmail]

It is something that you should have basic wiring skills to complete... it seems like a lot but if you dont mind sitting around soldering and wiring your golden... the benefits are there.. so many way you could wire it up also...
A pure race stripper SHO would be great.. throw away all the wiring harness and build a small basic harness would be awesome.

Currently im going to be completely removing the dis setup from my car.
Over time im gonna trim the harness down to what I need.

Ill answer any q's

 

[Off Road SHO]

How will you sense the crank angle? Bolt a trigger wheel to the harmonic balancer? Or use the three trigger that is stock on the SHO?

Tom