Mechanic throwing in the towel...

[RI-SHO]

After 3weeks of him tinkering with my SHO here and there and doing easy brake/oil job on other cars, he basically said I will check the timing tmw and if it looks right, you can just take your SHO back with no labor cost. Because he cant really tell what it is, it gives no codes at all, so basically by tommrrow i'll have my headache back home with no idea from whats keeping it from starting.

Is timing the only possibilty? Which will cause the car to throw air back throught the intake and backfire? If I cant get it fixed i'll keep it a few mths and part it out. Because its just BS how no one can get it to work, i know i'm not the best mechanic so i brought it to the closest one which i could push my SHO to with no luck. I would need to remove my rear y-pipe and front bumper cover just to have it towed on a flatbed I might just do this if I have no option and get ***** at a Ford dealer.

 

[Yamaha V6]

If I find a bay to rent soon Edien, I'll give you a call if you want. Sorry to hear about your misfortunes.

 

[RI-SHO]

Thanks Fred, hopefully he does find the problem but since its already been 3wks I doubt it now.

 

[JaySHOguy]

RI-SHO:
Thanks Fred, hopefully he does find the problem but since its already been 3wks I doubt it now.

Fred... could his car be suffering the same problems as your '91 did when you first got it?

Bad/plugged cats?

Forgive me Edien... I can't exactly remember what the problems were.

 

[RI-SHO]

He supposly already dropped the cats and said it made no difference in how it started, btw the cats are only a year old but SHO ran very rich, and we all know how much cats like fuel. Also gave me a short explaination of how even if the cats are clogged it should start for a few seconds then shut off again. I have 2extra coilpacks and one extrta DIS module I was able to find which I beleive he hasnt even tested with(i tried one different coilpack).

Right now I know its getting fuel and spark, checked for spark in the front plugs, so in theory it should be starting up but its all doing is draining my battery with each crank and creating a strong fuel smell, most likily after so many cranks with no combustion I believe its flooded too.

 

[SHOTIME]

Completely plugged exhaust. Ediens Y-pipe is nearly new, though its not impossible. It is SHO-Shops.

He has changed the CPS and CID?

 

[RI-SHO]

SHOTIME:
Completely plugged exhaust. Ediens Y-pipe is nearly new, though its not impossible. It is SHO-Shops.

He has changed the CPS and CID?

I believe the CID yes, and its a PP y-pipe.

 

[Yamaha V6]

Well, best of luck to you Edien.

FYI, my 91's was a plugged Y-Pipe & it would not run at all.

Offer's there on the table if things come together on this end.

 

[rangerj]

RI SHO,

You are getting air blown back into the intake manifold, and back-fire? These are clasic signs of incorrect timing. In order to get "air" blown back into the intake, an intake valve has to be open when it should be closed.

Either your valves are not properly timed to the crankshaft, or they (some or all) are not fully seating. They could be held open by carbon deposits, or one or more is bent and not seating, or there could be a broken valve spring, or there could be a lifter "cocked" in its bore and not allowing the valve to close completely.

Have you tried a compression test? Have you looked at the timing chains on the back side (driver side) of the cams?

While any of these causes, or a combination of them, would be unusual, they are all possible.

However, the fact that the engine will not fire at all, leads me to believe that the valve timing is out of sync. The other side of this problem would be that the spark plugs are not being fired at the right time. Are your wires on right? Again, was anything changed before this problem arose?

Please provide some more information. Did this just happen, that is you went to start the car and it would not start? Were you rolling along and it just died? Did you drive it for 20 minutes with the temperature in the red? What is the history of the car?

Did you, or anyone else, change anything before this problem arose? If there are no codes, then the problem is most likely mechanical. With some effort on your part, and some help from the forum folks, this problem can be solved. rangerj

 

[MeShoHorny]

I put my money on it in the other post that it is your cats/exhaust. Get the car back, drop the y-pipe and crank her over. I don't believe that the mechanic dropped it.

You have nothing to lose at this point.

Doesn't Fred make house calls wink

 

[twr]

RI-SHO,
Certainly sounds like your timing is off. I would suggest a compression test or verify the belt hasn't jumped some teeth or lost some teeth. The only way you can have back fire into the intake is timing, either crank to cam or ignation (spark plugs firing in the wrong order (spark plug wires on wrong) Even if the exhaust was completely blocked, the car would crank and try to start.

<small>[ October 10, 2002, 05:11 PM: Message edited by: twrsho ]</small>

 

[sdpatt]

Go here to read how to examine the timing of the camshafts versus the crankshaft. Double check the plug wire installation per this topic. Only a spark event in a cylinder with an open intake valve can cause what you are describing. A plugged exhaust wouldn't cause the backfire and a damaged intake valve would not cause the non-starting condition. Check the timing belt indexing and the plug wire sequencing.

 

[SHOfun 93]

I am going with timing on this one as well... frown

 

[Sho-N-Go]

I have to go with the timing issue as well. Take the link Scott gave. I know I have fixed several others cant fix and it always seems to be timing. Good luck

 

[Yamaha V6]

Actually Scott, my 91 with the plugged Y DID pop occasionally. If there's nowhere for the air to go down, it goes up.

I'm not saying it's not timing, I'm just passing on what happened with the 91.

 

[luigisho]

Yes, Scott's reasoning is sound. It certainly says timing first to me. How can this guy have this car that long and not have pulled the timing covers to change the cps and check the timing? Air, fuel, spark... has to be one. If the fuel is delivered correctly that leaves air and spark. Spark is more likely. I know it's frustrating but if you get nowhere I'd take Fred up on his offer. That car is too nice to chop up.

 

[RI-SHO]

Heres how it happened, it was back oon August 29th, it drove perfectly that day even had a few 120MPH runs with temp all normal. Then at night after cooling off for about 3hrs I just drove to the "hang-out" where I chill with car club buds, and I decided to go to a Burger King to grab some food just regular driving. Then suddenly when I am about to go on the road and i am releaseing the clutch my idle goes hay-wire sounds real lumpy close to stalling and I have basically drop the clutch above 2K just to get it to move and lower the RPM w/o it shuting off.

After that I drove it home quickly(2miles away) parked and it turned it on the next day, with no problem starting it just idled real rough, I basically ran a few cylinder balance test and kept getting 9-9 till a few days later when I got cylinder 3-4-5 over and over, thats also when the popping started while the car was running. Basically it got worse and worse and eventually didnt start till my battery died and I had to go out and buy another, thought it was my alt. but I know this wouldnt have caused the popping sounds. Now its back to square one I have checked sensors changed a few cleaned IAB everything I could do. Now I might just have to do it myself but whats not good I dont get many days so I would only be able to work on it late at night like 1-3am or 2days a week at most.

While in the process of all of this I replaced the spark plugs the 3month old ones were solid black, and i could see mild carbon build up in the cylinder walls under the manifold but I was afraid to decarbonize it considering the conditions its was running in. Also tested/checked coilpack, DIS module, DIS ground, fuel pressure, and MAF.

One last thing would the clogged cat cause it to allow some air out the mufflers? Because when trying to crank it with the gas pedal down I can hear a gurgle from the muffs and see the RPM's jump a few hundred up.

 

[BeatDaSHO]

have you checked your fuel injectors yet?? what leads me to believe it's fuel injectors is that the problem got worse and worse over time. If it was timing, then it would have jumped a tooth and then stayed teh same without getting worse or better. It would just always be bad. A clogged fuel injector can go in and out therefore causing the car to seem to run fine and then not to run fine. I would replace those fuel injectors.

Greg

 

[RI-SHO]

BeatDaSHO:
have you checked your fuel injectors yet?? what leads me to believe it's fuel injectors is that the problem got worse and worse over time. If it was timing, then it would have jumped a tooth and then stayed teh same without getting worse or better. It would just always be bad. A clogged fuel injector can go in and out therefore causing the car to seem to run fine and then not to run fine. I would replace those fuel injectors.

Greg

Thats what I assumed right when it ran rough the forst time, because last year I lost 2injectors at 120MPH, bucked like crazy wouldnt even go above 60MPH in 3rd. And now when it did run I tried running it hard once and it ran rough/good back and forth and it somehow limited my rev to a max of 5000RPM. I also tapped at the injectors and it ran awkward everytime I tapped them from the top while running it actually got better once for about 5min, but at the same it had the pop which it never did last year when I lost 2 and 5 injectors.

 

[possumhopper]

shoot dude i am fighting the exact thing with a 92 if u can start it it surges and mine will start going fine then surge again and if it dosen't start it will flood lord will it floood i tried every thing but cats and cps those are next if you figure it out please email me at [email protected]