main seal questions....

[auto.guru]

so i just got a 27k motor for $400.

its been sitting and stored correctly since 1994.
just wondering about the main seal... i heard they like to dry up over time and crack, and others have said they will be fine.

replace them? or am i good? :thankyou:

 

[zak]

I would at a minimum replace rear and front main seals, all three cam seals, valve guide seals and valve cover gaskets. (Am in the process of doing the same for a 52 K mile 3.2 I've been storing in my garage).

 

[auto.guru]

I would at a minimum replace rear and front main seals, all three cam seals, valve guide seals and valve cover gaskets. (Am in the process of doing the same for a 52 K mile 3.2 I've been storing in my garage).

wouldnt there be 4 camshaft seals....?

all the seals mentioned above are a couple bucks no prob. the only one im concerned about is the valve cover gasket. Price starts at $80. dayum... ill check out the ones on the motor and see how good of shape they are in...

 

[Toolman]

No, three. The front exhaust cam does not come through the valve cover.

 

[auto.guru]

i also have the engine out atm....
im going to degrease the engine bay, clean it up... giving it a coat of black for a better look, re wrapping the main harness and other wires in the area with black electrical tape..

anything anyone knows about while i should as im still in there? jw... trying to help eliminate some of the clutter under the hood.

 

[kevinspann]

Black won't look good for long IMO, it might end up scratched off.


Car still have AC? If not, you could remove all of those lines and cap off the lines coming out of the dash.

Cruise work? If it doesn't you could take all that out too.

Could mount the battery in the trunk as well, the wiring would be easier to run with no engine in the way.

It all depends on what you want left.

 

[auto.guru]

was already planning on doing the battery relocate...
where do i run the wires? or where would you?
if not black... what color?
ac line was rusted out... so thats being taken out as well - along with the condenser in front of the radiator.
cruise doesnt work... but i kinda wanted cruise. makes it easy for the long road trips... but if it makes life easy, ill take it out. what vacuum lines have to be bypassed then? (keep in mind.. idk cause everything is ripped out)

what other things are optional?

 

[zak]

Don't use standard electrical tape for an engine harness it will melt. There are high temp cloth reinforced tapes specifically for automotive wiring harnesses.

 

[SHOclass]

Also, before you do all of this work you really should get a good stretch in. Also bend at the knees more when standing and leaning over SHO parts, as this will take pressure off of your lower back allowing you to be more comfortable and complete more SHO work.

 

[kevinspann]

was already planning on doing the battery relocate...
where do i run the wires? or where would you?
if not black... what color?
ac line was rusted out... so thats being taken out as well - along with the condenser in front of the radiator.
cruise doesnt work... but i kinda wanted cruise. makes it easy for the long road trips... but if it makes life easy, ill take it out. what vacuum lines have to be bypassed then? (keep in mind.. idk cause everything is ripped out)

what other things are optional?

I guess color depends on what shape the engine bay is in. Black may actually look better than what you have. Do it right and mask it off, clean it well so the paint actually sticks.


You could leave the cruise in place if you really want it. If you remove it, just remove all the lines that go to it and cap off any vacuum trees. But if you don't know what goes to what, wait until you have it back together. Might as well keep the cruise in that case if you can fix it.


I'm not sure if the power steering cooler can be deleted, I'm sure it's there for a reason - I don't really know the consequences of removing it. But if you really want to, that would delete one thing + quite a few feet of line that run across the engine bay.

 

[Racer X]

I would at a minimum replace rear and front main seals, all three cam seals, valve guide seals and valve cover gaskets. (Am in the process of doing the same for a 52 K mile 3.2 I've been storing in my garage).

This.

You'll need the Rotunda toolkit and compressed air to replace the valve stem seals.

You should replace the oil pan seals, too. They come in a pair.

And also, the rear main seal carrier gasket should be replaced. And since the engine is out, I would also go as far as replacing all the cooling jacket plugs with brass plugs.

 

[auto.guru]

Also, before you do all of this work you really should get a good stretch in. Also bend at the knees more when standing and leaning over SHO parts, as this will take pressure off of your lower back allowing you to be more comfortable and complete more SHO work.

really could have used that info last night. lol my back and knees are killing me today. thank god im getting adjusted on the 2nd.

im sure the p/s cooler can be deleted without much harm, although you shouldnt quote me on that. My lines run under the oil pan... and back up to the front subframe. dont ask me why.... but i would love to delete them.

thx for the info on the toolkit for the valve stem seals. saves time and money knowing that ahead of time until messing with it for an hour.. then realizing you need it lol.

and about that electrical tape.... i know the stuff you are talking about. it almost looks like heat wrap. crap... i kinda forgot about that stuff. But for a lot of the other wires and stuff its only reg tape, some of it is covered by that corrugated wire wrap stuff... http://www.google.com/imgres?q=unde...tart=0&ndsp=15&ved=1t:429,r:3,s:0&tx=89&ty=52

although this looks pretty ****.. http://www.fquick.com/garages/viewgallery.php?action=viewimg&id=87811

anyway.. the more info the better. Now that i just got an 82 mustang gt this morning, i have a daily driver. So now ill really take the time to get everything done right and done well

 

[sdpatt]

im sure the p/s cooler can be deleted without much harm, although you shouldnt quote me on that. My lines run under the oil pan... and back up to the front subframe. dont ask me why.... but i would love to delete them.

The power steering cooler is necessary for pump longevity and not large enough if you track the car. I had steering assist failures while on the track and failed a power steering pump. Replacing the small original with a larger unit lowered PS fluid temperatures from 180F to 120F in the reservoir after pulling into the garage at the track. The 180F was killing my pumps.

 

[kevinspann]

In which case he needs to properly reroute his cooler lines.

 

[auto.guru]

which ill be doing... i got half of the engine bay painted... and painstakingly rewrapping lots and lots of harnesses and wires with electrical tape.

def looks alot better though in my opinion. ill post pics if anyone wants to see... or maybe i should start a new topic...

 

[auto.guru]

Well the new motor WAS a success... for about 2 days.
One day coming up to the off ramp of the highway the motor suddenly acts like it has a catastrophic loss of power. As soon as my foot came off the gas the car died. Had to tow it back home. Sat through the holidays for the most part until a few days ago when i started ripping in to the lower end.

1 Rod bearing is completely seized/welded/or has expanded so much the crank will not turn. Originally I had drained the oil pan of its transmission fluid, pulled the pan off, checked the torque on end caps (all good) and resealed the pan. It upsets me that i now have to replace a connecting rod, wrist pin, and bearings on the mains & RB. If the crank and bearings have been soaked in trans fluid for 14 years, what would cause one to fail now?