Main Reason For CPS Failures..??

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beaudeen

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If the CPS failures are mostly caused by the water pump leaking out the weep holes....is there enough clearance around the water pump to weld small 90 degree ******* over the weep holes and attach some sort of rubber hoses to route the water away from damaging the CPS..??
 

SeanMc

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I think he's wanting to save the CPS by having the coolant drain away from it. Good idea, and it might save you from being stranded somewhere.
 

yamahaSHO

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I plugged the bottom hole with silicone so when it leaks, I will see it out the top ;)
 

RonPorter

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If the CPS failures are mostly caused by the water pump leaking out the weep holes....is there enough clearance around the water pump to weld small 90 degree ******* over the weep holes and attach some sort of rubber hoses to route the water away from damaging the CPS..??

That's been the old mechanic's tale for many years, but (1) CPS has failed when dry, like mine in '91, which was probably the first failure and no one knew what it was, and (2) they have been wet, as most water pumps leak, and have not failed.

If water was a cause, it would only be after a crack, which the water had nothing to do with.

The early cars seemed to fail early on, but the replacement CPS lasted a LOT longer.

Now with the cars 15-20 years old, old age is just probably getting 'em. I would consider it to be a replacement part whenever you have the front-end torn down.
 

rubydist

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The only 2 crank sensors I've had have not been related to waterpump leakage - the first was completely dry but it still failed. The second was covered in oil from a bad front main seal.
 

beaudeen

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Was just a thought...just waiting on my 60 k parts order to arrive and read many posts that blame a leaky water pump as the main cause of the CPS failure..I'm sure many have failed for other reasons...
 

firebat45

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Isnt the Water pump aluminum?? If so you will need a spool gun for a Mig welder or a tig welder.

You can MIG weld aluminum without a spool gun, it's just easier with one.

Also, you could braze the joint, but aluminum brazing is tricky (especially with something as big as the pump housing).

I'd say best bet is just to drill and tap it to the next nearest NPT size and thread a 90 into it.
 

RonPorter

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That must've been fun!

After they changed everything else in the ignition circuit, it was the last thing they changed, and they weren't sure that would fix it. Turned out to be the issue.

Car was driving me nuts, as it would die for anywhere from 1 to 30 minutes, with 30 minutes becoming more common.
 

Huntervf

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I've had more transmission failures in my years of SHO ownership than CPS failures. That's 3 transmission failures versus two CPS failures over the course of 9 years and 7 SHOs.

I wouldn't worry about it. CPS failures--while leaving you with a completely non-running car--often give you warning signs before giving up the ghost. When they fail, spend a day to replace it, and you'll probably never have to do it again.
 

shoon

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If you were to weld something to the waterpump, would that not create enough heat to wreck the seal?

I'm wondering if your that concerned, maybe make some kind of shroud to go under the WP.
 

beaudeen

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Thanks for the info guys..I'll follow the Phoenix Project guide lines and leave the water pump as is..was just reading the thread "No start after 60K"..I feel bad for him missing that crucial step of gaping the CPS..and now have to do it again...this is my first 60k and am a little nervous..just rechecked my tools..seems like I have everything..question regarding the puller...I have one that has a max span of approx 4 inches...will that do the trick for the crank sprocket..??
 
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elchado

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I just experienced my second CPS failure in 8 months. Is the water pump a viable culprit for multiple failures?
 

hawkeye18

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I really can't help but think that a water pump leaking directly onto a CPS wouldn't really help it out in any way...
 

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