Lug nut studs

[Bizzy]

I have a couple of quick questions. I've read about replacing the lug studs, but most of the directions I think are directed at Gen 2 SHO's. Today while removing my rims/tires so I could put my snow tires on I broke one of the studs on the rear. Needless to say I only got the front tires put on because I was afraid of breaking more studs and not being able to drive the car because of it.

So, one of my questions is, are the directions in this thread good for the Gen 1 rear? It's been a long time since I've messed around with the rear hubs (replaced the entire hubs on both sides about 2 years ago because of bearing issues) and I just want to make sure before I go messing around with it.

Second question, is it ok to use anti-seize on the studs?

Thanks in advance!

 

[olympic]

Yep, that method should work fine on a gen 1. Sometimes the stud is really pressed/rusted in there good so if all else fails you'd have to remove the hub and get it pressed out.

I've seen many warnings against using any kind of **** on wheel studs. But anti-sieze isn't an oil so as long as it's hi temp it should be OK.

 

[DHMag]

Biz, do you need any lug studs ?

 

[Bizzy]

Yeah, I haven't gotten any yet. Since it's only one that broke so far I wasn't too awfully concerned about it for now, but I do want to put my rear snow tires on the car very soon. I'm thinking that I'll be getting 2 or 3 just to be on the safe side.

Guess now would be a good time to replace my rear rotors and pads too which will be especially convenient since I already have them in my garage ready to put on.

 

[Ishodu]

Who put those rims on Beth? Same person who put the front ones before you had to snap all those studs?

 

[Bizzy]

I did Marcel, to the proper torque specs too. The front studs broke off because of bad wheel bearings.

 

[qiksho]

Bizzy,

An alignment shop broke one of my rears off here about 2 months ago. I had some other work to do on the SHO so the next order I placed I ordered a stud. Long story short I got the wrong one, and its not worth sending back. SO when you get around to putting new ones in will you help me out and post the part # as there were several listed, and the normal taurus is different than the SHO. It was not only too short (not enough thread engagement) but it was also too small diameter to fit snug in the hub. but the thread pitch was the same.

 

[Ishodu]

Thats crazy that they would rust that fast.

 

[Bizzy]

Well, these studs have been in fairly bad shape for quite awhile now and I knew that when I put the chrome rims on this past March. The lug nuts on the passenger rear were pretty rusted too, but I got them all loosened. I got one of the ones loose on the driver's side and then broke the second one so I didn't try to loosen any of the remaining 3 for fear of one of them snapping off also. The rear tires haven't been removed since I put the rims on fwiw.

qiksho, as soon as I get them in my hand and try them out I'll let ou know how it goes. I'm going to see if I can get them soon so maybe I can make this a Sunday project.

Edit: I checked on Advance's website along with Rockauto.com and found that they both list Dorman brand #610344 as being the part number for the rear stud. What I think I'm going to do is have the guys I know at Advance pull a hub assembly and compare the studs in that to a new stud before I leave the store.

 

[rangerj]

Bizzy,

If the studs are rusted (that bad) then the threads are diminished and weakened. Replace them all. It is not that much additional work, and the added safety margine is well worth it. If the threads in the lug nuts are worn replace the nuts also.

I have been using anti-sieze compound on my wheel lug studs for over 40 years and have never, ever, had a wheel lug nut loosen up. It is perfectly safe to do.

You can use a large "C" clamp as a press with a socket on the back side to "receive" the pressed out stud. Wire brush away the rust to reduce the amount of resistance to being pushed out. Use some penetrating oil to help it along. Just some thoughts.

The new stud can be drawn in with nuts. Put the flat side of the nut facing the hub. If you use the beveled side of the nut against the hub the stud may get cocked. You don't want a cocked stud do you? **! **! **! (This is an inside joke folks, so if you weren't there ignor it.) rangerj

I still owe you an e-mail. I'll try again tonight.

 

[DHMag]

You don't want a cocked stud do you? **! **! **! (This is an inside joke folks, so if you weren't there ignor it.)

i wasnt there but ill *snicker snicker* any way...

 

[Bizzy]

Thanks for the advice Jack. You're right as usual. I've actually been pondering my options and I'm considering replacing the entire hub assembly. A. Because of the stud issue. B. Because it's easier and C. Because I've been getting some humming from back there and I'm unsure if it's my tires or maybe the bearings. I don't see any unusual wear on the tires though so I'm inclined to think it's the bearings. The hub assembly is $50 so we'll see what's left after Christmas is over.

P.S. **! **! **!

 

[pjtoledo]

Ok lady, the holidays are over, time to give us an update.
About that hum in the rear, (,,nah, I better not say anything), take your gloves off and run your hand over the tread surface, forward, back, in and out. If there is a wear pattern causing noise you should feel a slight edge in one of the directions. Tires with a slight "saw-tooth" can cause lots of noise.

A bit off topic, the Wah-Goon had to be towed home last Tuesday. The TFI module was the culprit. How's Mr. Spock doing?


Perry

 

[Bizzy]

Ok lady, the holidays are over, time to give us an update.
About that hum in the rear, (,,nah, I better not say anything), take your gloves off and run your hand over the tread surface, forward, back, in and out. If there is a wear pattern causing noise you should feel a slight edge in one of the directions. Tires with a slight "saw-tooth" can cause lots of noise.

A bit off topic, the Wah-Goon had to be towed home last Tuesday. The TFI module was the culprit. How's Mr. Spock doing?

Sorry for the delay in reply Perry, I was down in Dayton with Mark over the weekend.

Mark has the same thoughts as you regarding the tires, he says they must be cupped. The only reason why I thought different was because before the clutch job they didn't hum and I knew that the hubs, being about due for replacement, might have crudded up while the car sat while it was down after the clutch swap.

Sorry to hear about the Wah-goon, but at least it was an easy fix. And speaking of Spock....I want to get your motor for him and go ahead with the swap out so he's back on the road. If we could get Spocky down there to Toledo could I pay ya to help me out with the swap-over? Pwease?

 

[pjtoledo]

Sorry for the delay in reply Perry, I was down in Dayton with Mark over the weekend.

Mark has the same thoughts as you regarding the tires, he says they must be cupped. The only reason why I thought different was because before the clutch job they didn't hum and I knew that the hubs, being about due for replacement, might have crudded up while the car sat while it was down after the clutch swap.

Sorry to hear about the Wah-goon, but at least it was an easy fix. And speaking of Spock....I want to get your motor for him and go ahead with the swap out so he's back on the road. If we could get Spocky down there to Toledo could I pay ya to help me out with the swap-over? Pwease?

Since you said "Pwease" ,,,,,


I'll send you a PM.

Perry

 

[Bizzy]

With sugar on top even.

 

[awb85]

Just dont put the caliper bracket back on before the rotor like I did

 

[SHOdownTN]

Dang. Unless these are different than most I have replaced. You can usually "can't spell" Unbolt the caliper bracket and remove it with the caliper, pull the rotor and with about 3 to 4 good whacks with a ballpeen strait on the stud will fall out. Slide the new one in. Get an extra nut and find a nut larger than the stud "where it slides over it without grabbing any threads". Place the larg nut over the stud and use your extra lug nut. Tighten the extra nut down by hand to the larg nut. It should rest on the larg nut without going through. Then, with an impact tighten till it pulls flush on the inside. Remove the nuts and re-assemble everything.

At the shop where I work we do this all the time and works well but we do have alot of extra peices lying around. Sometimes you can use a C clamp style balljoint press to remove and install the new stud.

 

[pjtoledo]

Since you said "Pwease" ,,,,,


I'll send you a PM.

Perry

Now do you remember?

 

[pjtoledo]

With sugar on top even.

I just may hold you up to this!


Perry