Low Oil Pressure Light at Idle and slightly above

[Laser411]

I have a 2013 Sho I purchased 3-4 months ago with 110k miles. It has been pretty trouble free until now. It started with the oil pressure light coming on after heavy acceleration and sitting idle immediately after. Then it started coming on at idle. Now it is up to about 2000 RPM. There is a very minor oil leak somewhere that has been going on for a month but it seems like it's just seeping as there has been no perceivable oil level change. I have checked the oil level thrice and it is definitely right at the upper limit.

I do have an oil pressure gauge kit but I cannot for the life of me figure out where the oil pressure sensor is to hook it up, anyone know? Maybe hook me up with a picture?

What else could this be? I am really hope it's covered by my aftermarket warranty, anyone have experience with those?

 

[krewat]

It's a long-shot, and be prepared for the worst anyway, but that seeping oil leak could be the pressure sensor itself. Periods of high oil pressure cause pressure to pass around it, light comes on when pressure goes back to normal. Over time, the thing just starts leaking pressure more and more and the light comes on more and more.

Find the pressure sensor and see if it's the culprit. But always, and I do mean always, be prepared for bad news when it comes to oil pressure issues.

 

[Laser411]

I am very hopeful that is the case, although if it is a covered warranty part that causes engine failure, it might actually be lucky . From what I have read in the contract, Rod bearings, Oil Pump, Oil pressure sensor, are all covered. I just have a deductible and have to pay diagnostics. It was weird because one day it did not come on a single time and the next day it came back with a vengeance. Other than that, it seems to be getting progressively worse and rather quickly.

Any idea where the pressure sensor is?

 

[krewat]

part 9278 in both these pictures, but one is with the oil cooler and one is without. Right above and to the right (passenger side) where the oil filter adapter bolts to the engine. Not sure what the difference is, they both look like the oil pressure sensor is going in the same port in the block.

 

[Laser411]

Pictures are not coming up for me.

 

[krewat]

Odd... here they are as attachments

 

[Laser411]

Those show up, that's not where it seems to be leaking from. It seems like it is leaking from the rear bank near the bottom where the heads end (or where I think the heads end) on the passenger side. I only found it because it occasionally drips onto the exhaust and I can smell it.

Do you know what the idle pressure should be? and whatever they are supposed to be at 2k rpm (or whatever they test it at)

 

[Laser411]

There are 2 part numbers, one is $5 one is $45.

http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/P...&search=true&year=2013&make=Ford&model=Taurus

http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/P...&search=true&year=2013&make=Ford&model=Taurus

Rock auto search pulls yet another part number
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6821356&jsn=152&jsn=152

Anyone know what changes were made? The first two from ford, pull up with my VIN number. Last one has a reference that says it works for SW6357. So confused here. Especially why one of them is $45.

 

[Laser411]

It's getting progressively worse, and fast. I don't get it. Now it comes on at like 2500 RPM and the oil smell is a bit stronger but that might be because I am trying to stay a little higher in the RPMs trying to avoid that light (Shame on me, I know). Still no oil spots left anywhere or any significant amount of oil anywhere that I can see. I'm going to have to park it and find some other way to work, extremely stressful. It has been asymptomatic though, no noises, no loss of power, no change in oil level that I can tell. It even quit doing it the one day. Once I figure out if I can actually use the $4 part, I am going to replace that sensor and try to hook up my gauge. Ideas and recommendations are greatly appreciated as I am rather freaking out right now.

 

[Shadow351]

I ordered the $5 oil pressure switch and I asked the parts guy about the price difference when I picked it up, he said it might be an older revision of the part but couldn't give me a definitive difference. If I remember correctly the oil pressure switch is above the A.c. compressor and kinda a PITA to get to. To run the oil pressure gauge on it I used an oil filter sandwich adapter, so I could monitor oil pressure with the oil pressure switch still connected. Now I was never able to get the oil pressure warning at idle in my garage, so I couldn't confirm I weather the switch was bad but I replaced it anyway.

 

[SHOdded]

Has there been any rattling type noise at all? IIRC, the oil pump is driven by the timing chain on the EB, just like its' naturally aspirated cousin. So def would want to get timing chains/tensioners/coolant pump etc done at the same time if possible.

How is the PCV system doing? Any pooling oil in the intake tubes or in the intercooler? Wondering if it is blowing out seals due to excessive crankcase pressure. Once the pressure gauge is hooked up, we can get at least part of the story.

Oil pressure Minimum 30 psi @ 1,500 rpm with engine at normal operating temperature. What oil filter are you running?

Oil Pressure Test

1. Disconnect and remove the oil pressure switch from the engine.

1. Connect the engine Oil Pressure Gauge to the oil pressure switch oil galley port.

1. Run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached.

1. Run the engine at the specified rpm and record the gauge reading.

1. The oil pressure should be within specifications; refer to the specification chart in the appropriate engine section.

1. If the pressure is not within specification, check the following possible sources:
   • Insufficient oil
   • Oil leakage
   • Worn or damaged oil pump
   • Oil pump screen cover and tube
   • Excessive main bearing clearance
   • Excessive connecting rod bearing clearance
   • Chain tensioner leak
   • Piston squirter stuck open
   • Oil pump relief valve stuck open
   • Improper oil grade

 

[shaker281]

Excellent post as always from SHOdded!

Whatever is wrong, I would consider having both an oil leak AND a low pressure light to be VERY coincidental.
Meaning likely NOT coincidental at all.

 

[Laser411]

The leak is near the back (trunk) side of the engine below the head (I'll try and get a picture next chance I get), it might be a timing cover leak as the place I bought it from said they replaced it and I think they may have just used RTV sealant.....but I am not sure. No noises that I can tell, nothing seems different. I got the switch from my ford dealer and it was yet ANOTHER part number. I'm going to check the pressure this weekend, I don't have a sandwich adapter so I will have to try and get to the switch. How hard is it to get the intercooler dropped? I would like to de-sludge it.

I hope to god my timing chain or water pump goes, new engine under warranty. It clearly states it's covered and both of those failing would mean a replacement engine. If it lasts to the end of my warranty, I will probably overhaul the entire engine. Maybe even save up the money to send it to livernois to be rebuilt a bit better.

 

[SHOdded]

The timing cover has no gasket, you have to make it out of RTV sealant. Throws you back a good ways in time, doesn't it? LOL!

Not too hard to remove the intercooler, if you are ok with removing the radiator ...

 

[SilverSH0]

The timing cover has no gasket, you have to make it out of RTV sealant. Throws you back a good ways in time, doesn't it? LOL!

Not too hard to remove the intercooler, if you are ok with removing the radiator ...

I personally prefer using RTV over a standard gasket. I find that RTV is way more forgiving (ie, easier to seal) than a gasket when it comes to torque values and patterns.

 

[SHOdded]

It is also a way of getting around irregular mating surfaces. Not sure if this would work very well with cylinder heads, but pretty good for low pressure situations.

 

[SilverSH0]

It is also a way of getting around irregular mating surfaces. Not sure if this would work very well with cylinder heads, but pretty good for low pressure situations.

Cylinder heads won't work because the pressure is to high. But you're right, when it's not super high pressure it will seal surfaces that aren't perfectly flat. One some old cars I've restored I've had valve covers that won't seal with gaskets because they're so warped (even with using a torque wrench and correct pattern). Put some RTV down instead of a gasket, seals no problem.

 

[Laser411]

So an update, I didn't have the patience or clearance to get the pressure gauge hooked up.

I was able to get a new pressure switch installed which seemed to lower the occurrence rate greatly. Then I ran some seafoam through the crankcase for 200 miles before an oil change and that practically made it go away completely. Niw it only comes on after I run the car really hard and then come to an idle, and even then, it comes and goes like it's right on the threshold.

I do have this one rattle at idle but it sounds like a loose heatshield more than anything. Sounds too fast at idle to be a knock or lifter tick.

 

[skyshadow07]

I'm writing this with sweaty palms because I was doing 90 on the toll road for about 45min and when I exited the hwy my low pressure light keeps kicking on.

 

[Laser411]

Mine would come on after high speed or high load runs as well, when the oil is probably hugest and thinnest. I used some seafoam in the oil for a few hundred miles before a change and I haven't had the issue ever since.

I believe mine was a combination of sludge in the pickup tube and an over sensitive pressure switch.