little AC help

[flakedawg]

I just got a 94 3.2 SHO .love the car but the ac just went out. I think the person that borrowed it at work sat for like45 min with ac blasting at idle. Not sure what happened the compresser kicks on but the inside of the pully does not move? Is that the clutch? any help would be great I have no clue about AC I do Car audio . thanks!

 

[MADDOG11]

The center piece on the pully is the clutch and it should be spinning when the compressor engages. If this is not happening and your looking for a DIY repair, start by replacing the cycling switch (located on top of the reciever drier). If that doesn't do it your going to probably have to bite the bullet and have someone do an A/C performance test (ie. shoot some freon, add leak detection dye and check for leaks). Good luck!

 

[greg geraci]

First you need to Pull the connector off of the a/c unit. next start your engine and turn your a/c on. you then need to check to see if you have voltage present in the connector end. I used a 12 volt voltage tester that lights up. You need to check from one terminal to the other. The reason for that is you may have 12 volts to one terminal and you may of lost your ground on the other terminal. so just by testing your connector to the battery terminal ground doesn't mean you have the ground to the compressor connector terminal. If you have voltage present to the compressor and the clutch in the center doesn't spin while you call for a/c, you more than likely have a bad clutch. If you do not have voltage present at the compressor while you call for a/c, you have a low freon limit switch that won't allow the voltage to the compressor meaning you might have a freeon loss by means of o rings in the compressor or fittings. This is a start. You can make this check by your self.
greg

 

[TYSHO]

Not sure what happened the compresser kicks on but the inside of the pully does not move? Is that the clutch?

You most likely have low freon or a loose connection on the front of the compressor.

This sounds exactly what I was going through; turn on the a/c and hear the clutch engage, then get out and look to see that the clutch is not engage. From the time you get out to go look, the clutch disengages and you will not hear it. When you hear it at first, it obviously engaged, so there's not a gap issue there.

Check your connection and make sure it is not loose, it should be nice and firm. If you check and push it in, but it's still loose, you most likely have a broke male connector coming out from the compressor. If so, you will need to find something like a zip tie to tighten it down, otherwise this problem will haunt you! [just ask me about it!]

If your connection is good to the compressor, check your freon pressure. You can buy the kit from your local WalMart for cheap, it also allows you to charge it back up. If it's a little low, your compressor will usually kick on and off.

 

[SASHO91]

the problem with dye kits is that the dye is added into the oil and is carried through the system with the oil...
so the problem is this... if you have a leak your going to see the oil anyways... so the dye kit... not worth the time in my book...

as brain (tysho) stated pick up a cheap service kit from walmart or autozone... check the pressures.. Low side should be anywhere between 25-45psi.. high side should be 100 plus the ambient tempurature.. ( if its 84 degrees out the reading should be close to 180 or so.) DO NOT, i repeat, DO NOT, put any frion in before you check pressure.... this can cause an overcharged system... and could cause major problems... (down the line, or right down the road..) IIRC, they sell a kit that has a pressure gauge on it.. its got a yellow blue and a green section... comes with some frion as well. this will probably be your best choice... as im sure if no A/C work has been done, the system is more than likely low on frion. Every so many years you loose x amount frion.... not from leaks, but just the frion escaping. Especially during winter when the a/c is not operational....
another thing that could be wrong is one of the two pressure cycling switches... (high side and low side)... allthough you would need to confirm that the state of charge is correct...(cant recall what the r-134a system is on the sho right now...) Thats one reason i dont like those kits.. you really dont know how many lbs. is in the system. allthough that machine costs about 2k...
my advice to you, go out and get the "kit" with the frion, and check to make sure its all in working order.. if not add some frion, and check again. If that dosent work and the pressure is were its supposed to be at, (make sure its were it needs to be at!!!EDIT: as the oil flows through the system with the frion, so if its low on frio, you wont get enough oil around the system,which can cause a compressor to grenade) try and jumping the high/low pressure cycling switch. one at a time that way you can rule them out as being faulty...

Hope that helps...

yea.. i do believe im going to kickass at the A/C work.. especially here in Tejas....
if you need any more help, PM about it...

 

[TYSHO]

And if you do check the high side, DO NOT open the valve for the freon can!

 

[SASHO91]

yes.. that would be bad...
allthough R-134a cans have a safety blow out device on the bottom of the can... just FYI....

But then again, if your just checking you shouldnt have the can hooked up anyways...

Brian, did you check out the FPR thread? i posted links...

 

[TYSHO]

But then again, if your just checking you shouldnt have the can hooked up anyways...

Brian, did you check out the FPR thread? i posted links...

With the WalMart supplies, you have to have a can on there I believe. I can't remember, it's been awhile since I serviced my SHO.

Yeah, checked it out.

 

[SASHO91]

oh your talking about the walmart kit... i was refereing to the manifold gauge set...

but IIRC i have seen a kit (walmart one) that had a valve on the can tap... oh well.. i gotcha..

 

[flakedawg]

ok thanks Ill be checking this out today you all are great this site kicks ass!

 

[greg geraci]

Or you can just take it to a a/c shop and they can flow nitrogen threw it and squirt soapy water at all the connections and if there is a leak at the o rings or seals it will bubble up. Thats how they found mine. They found three different o rings in different places that were leaking in a matter of minutes. You then have the option of replacing the seals your self or have them do it. I watched them replace mine and being that I never done it before I'm glad they did it. Of course I didn't have any one (friends ) that could help me.
They charge me 15.00 to find my leaks. it ranges from 15.00 - 40.00. just shop around and ask questions. I reccomend that if your not a/c inclined, It will save you a lot of head aches and spending unnecessary money.

 

[flakedawg]

ok took it to the ac shop.....$655.00 to fix he is changing out all the part . is that a fare price the other price I got was like 200 more.

 

[TYSHO]

ok took it to the ac shop.....$655.00 to fix he is changing out all the part . is that a fare price the other price I got was like 200 more.

For $655 he is NOT changing out all of the parts! The compressor, condensor, and accumulator will run you about that much alone!

Last time I checked one of the bills, it was around $1300 for everything replaced but one of the lines, labor included.

 

[flakedawg]

ok thanks ill check and see what all he is changing before i drop it off. What all does he need to change if he said the compressor was done.

 

[TYSHO]

ok thanks ill check and see what all he is changing before i drop it off. What all does he need to change if he said the compressor was done.

Wow, this thread went from try to see what was wrong to just taking it to a mechanic.

Personally, I would just go buy the $25 can of freon and guages, then check the pressure. This of course would be after checking the electrical connection.

Hate to tell you, but if you walk up and ask a mechanic what's wrong with your car and you say you think it's something that is expensive, 99.9% of the times they will say it is just to make you feel that you knew what it was and charge you up the ****!

Before you drop it off, and if you refuse to go check the pressure, take it to another shop and just tell them you want the pressure checked. This shouldn't cost much at all.

Best bet is to find out if the little things are what went wrong, because you will get stiffed at any shop if you don't know anything about the car. Sorry if it sounds harsh, but I know many mechanics and a customer like you is what they want coming into the shop everyday! Sad, but true...


Edit: If he is going to change out any parts, you better request to have your old parts back. Also, usually when the compressor is replaced, they will replace most of your other components like the accumulator and lines. The last thing you want is just to replace the compressor, if it really went out, because all of the small particals from the old compressor will contaminate the rest of the system, which will eventually take a crap on you again, shortly.

 

[greg geraci]

I keep forgetting your not in calif. I just bought my compressor from auto compressors 714 839-4997 yesterday in santa ana ca. and the compressor was 125.00 rebuilt complete. The dryer was another 60.00 Prices are so different out here. Ask if they ship. These guys are just about the cheapest your going to find. Just an example that you have to shop around. And you need to find out what exactly your problem is. If you have to keep in touch with all of us and narrow down the possibilities. That way when they try to screw you and sell you something you don't need you'll be on top of it. All of these guys seem to know and can help you along. Keep in touch.