The other day I'm going out with my girl friend and hear this metal tinging sound. Thinking I had just hit something, I drove on. A couple minutes later my batter light is on. I drove a day like that & popped the hood this afternoon. It turns out that tinging was the wheel/pulley falling off of the tensioner assembly. I'm not sure how, but it happened. Anybody got an idea on what part to get or how to fix it? I went to NAPA, they gave me a pulley but it doesn't seem quite right, it appears it'd rub against the metal of the tensioner assembly.
Literally falling apart, help w/tensioner pulley
- Thread starter filc03
- Start date
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luigisho
SHO Member
Just an FYI:It's easier to answer questions like this if you post the year and/or tranny (mtx,atx) in a signature that would appear in all of your posts. Some parts are a little different between the auto and stick cars. Since your's is a 92 that narrows things down.
That being said, if you use the search function and look for idler pulley in just this section of the forum, you will find a few good answers and alternatives from a month or two ago. I think the pulley can be found new at the dealer. I also think the bearing may be obsolete. Is the bearing missing along with the pulley from the assembly?
You may be able to find someone with a bad motor parting out things like these too. Look in the classifieds here, at shoclub.com, at alfitz.com, at sho-parts.com, and at the shotimes list on delphiforums.com.
<small>[ October 23, 2002, 10:42 PM: Message edited by: luigisho ]</small>
That being said, if you use the search function and look for idler pulley in just this section of the forum, you will find a few good answers and alternatives from a month or two ago. I think the pulley can be found new at the dealer. I also think the bearing may be obsolete. Is the bearing missing along with the pulley from the assembly?
You may be able to find someone with a bad motor parting out things like these too. Look in the classifieds here, at shoclub.com, at alfitz.com, at sho-parts.com, and at the shotimes list on delphiforums.com.
<small>[ October 23, 2002, 10:42 PM: Message edited by: luigisho ]</small>
rangerj
Active Member
Filco3
If the aftermarket pulley you got from NAPA is rubbing against the mount, it is not right.
Get an Original Equiptment Manufacturer (OEM) pulley, washer, and nut from a dealership parts department, or from a parts car or other sources mentioned above.
If you can get a used pulley and bearing you can replace the bearing with one from a later model year. The pulley and bearing new is about $95.
A used pulley might cost you $10, and a new bearing will be about $30. Press out the old bearing and press in the new.
Then all you have to do is put the pulley on with the belt, adjust it, and TORQUE the nut as specified in the shop manual.
If you need more help, and/or do not quite understand, let me know. I may have a used pulley from a 90. I think it is the same as the 92. I'll look for it, and if I have it I'll let you know.
Does anyone know if the A/C, Alternator, and crankshaft belt idler pulley (6 ribbed belt), is the same for 90 and 92?
Is Eaton in southeastern Lorain County? If it is I am 30 minutes away. rangerj
If the aftermarket pulley you got from NAPA is rubbing against the mount, it is not right.
Get an Original Equiptment Manufacturer (OEM) pulley, washer, and nut from a dealership parts department, or from a parts car or other sources mentioned above.
If you can get a used pulley and bearing you can replace the bearing with one from a later model year. The pulley and bearing new is about $95.
A used pulley might cost you $10, and a new bearing will be about $30. Press out the old bearing and press in the new.
Then all you have to do is put the pulley on with the belt, adjust it, and TORQUE the nut as specified in the shop manual.
If you need more help, and/or do not quite understand, let me know. I may have a used pulley from a 90. I think it is the same as the 92. I'll look for it, and if I have it I'll let you know.
Does anyone know if the A/C, Alternator, and crankshaft belt idler pulley (6 ribbed belt), is the same for 90 and 92?
Is Eaton in southeastern Lorain County? If it is I am 30 minutes away. rangerj
I've been there....Mine also came apart a few years ago....The bearing is a special bearing made for Ford....Ford will sell you the pully assembly for $70 apiece....if it's a 5 speed...you might as well change both of them...They kind of waer together...
That answers a question i have had for a long time..... i spent lots of time researching these bearings.... called NSK..the manufacturer of the bearing for ford.... talked to thier tech guy...the tech guys at pretty much every other major bearing company i could find and here is what i found... on my 90 MTX... the bearing is the same for BOTH pulleys..however... it is NOT...35mmX55mm.... in fact.... the dimensions...as measured by a micrometer and read out to me by the NSK tech are 40mm X 20mm X 15mm what he told me is that NSK doesn't have any more of them and they would have to be ordered by one of thier "approved vendors".... i spoke with a local NSK dealer and he called and was told that NSK WOULD sell them to him... but they would have to "work out a price" and 5 months wait initially... in the meantime... i am searching for a bushing that would go into a standard sized bearing... in NORMAL idler pulleys and see if i can come up with something that would work... as for the above size dimensions... 35 x 55 i believe that was the dimensions of a 6007 bearing i found for a guy with an ATX... it was like 15 bucks at the local bearing place...or 20 bucks from the local yamaha place.... good luck to all
Louis
rangerj
Active Member
ib-sho,
I have swapped Gen III bearings with the Gen I pulley. It is better than paying $75 to $95 for a gen I pulley at a dealership.
As another possibility, I have considered having the Gen I pulley machined to fit a common sized bearing. The mounting stud would also also have to be machined to fit the I.D. of the pulley.
This would be the extreme solution, but if these Japanese bearings are not going to be available, it may be the only alternative in the future.
Does anybody know why the Japanese do not use common sized bearings, like the rest of the civilized world?
I have run into the "propriatary" bearing crap in other brands of vehicles besides Fords. Does anyone else find this to be a PITA, or is it just me. rangerj
I have swapped Gen III bearings with the Gen I pulley. It is better than paying $75 to $95 for a gen I pulley at a dealership.
As another possibility, I have considered having the Gen I pulley machined to fit a common sized bearing. The mounting stud would also also have to be machined to fit the I.D. of the pulley.
This would be the extreme solution, but if these Japanese bearings are not going to be available, it may be the only alternative in the future.
Does anybody know why the Japanese do not use common sized bearings, like the rest of the civilized world?
I have run into the "propriatary" bearing crap in other brands of vehicles besides Fords. Does anyone else find this to be a PITA, or is it just me. rangerj
rangerj,
thats good news..... my guess is that with the bearing sizes being different the bushing pressed into the inner diameter of the bearing is different in size?? just curious....
as for the proprietary bearing..... they do it for this exact reason.. the NSK tech said that the bearings were built only for ford for this application and there was some sort of agreement that they could ONLY manufacture them for ford for a certain number of years....
at any rate.... that is great news about the v8 pulley...... i wasn't discrediting anyone... or saying that anyone was wrong..... just pointing out what I found. did not mean any disrespect!!
i still plan on searching for a cheaper alternative.... there HAS to be a cheaper solution to the problem with as many options as there are out there bearing/bushing wise....
the interesting thing about the bearings on MY pulleys is that the outer diameter is a standard size .... used on normal bearings...and the inner diameter is the same way... but that combination... the 37mm OD and 20mm ID.. thats what makes it not available
Louis
thats good news..... my guess is that with the bearing sizes being different the bushing pressed into the inner diameter of the bearing is different in size?? just curious....
as for the proprietary bearing..... they do it for this exact reason.. the NSK tech said that the bearings were built only for ford for this application and there was some sort of agreement that they could ONLY manufacture them for ford for a certain number of years....
at any rate.... that is great news about the v8 pulley...... i wasn't discrediting anyone... or saying that anyone was wrong..... just pointing out what I found. did not mean any disrespect!!
i still plan on searching for a cheaper alternative.... there HAS to be a cheaper solution to the problem with as many options as there are out there bearing/bushing wise....
the interesting thing about the bearings on MY pulleys is that the outer diameter is a standard size .... used on normal bearings...and the inner diameter is the same way... but that combination... the 37mm OD and 20mm ID.. thats what makes it not available
Louis
rangerj
Active Member
Louis,
If, on an available bearing, the outer diameter is the same, and the width is the same, then a mounting bolt could easily be machined to fit the inside diameter.
Even if the entire bolt, with the back end that the adjusting screw goes through, had to be machined, it would only have to be done once.
Then the much cheaper and readily available bearing could be used whenever a bearing needed to be replaced.
You would have to have two made, one for the six ribbed pulley, and one for the narrow pulley.
I do not know what it would cost, but these are not complicated pieces to machine.
If the source of these Japanese bearings dry up, this is the way we will have to go.
I could not agree with you more Louis, the price of these imported bearings and other parts is outrageous. I could swear that I read somewhere that we won WWII! rangerj
If, on an available bearing, the outer diameter is the same, and the width is the same, then a mounting bolt could easily be machined to fit the inside diameter.
Even if the entire bolt, with the back end that the adjusting screw goes through, had to be machined, it would only have to be done once.
Then the much cheaper and readily available bearing could be used whenever a bearing needed to be replaced.
You would have to have two made, one for the six ribbed pulley, and one for the narrow pulley.
I do not know what it would cost, but these are not complicated pieces to machine.
If the source of these Japanese bearings dry up, this is the way we will have to go.
I could not agree with you more Louis, the price of these imported bearings and other parts is outrageous. I could swear that I read somewhere that we won WWII! rangerj
snowwind1990
Member
What is the tq for the tensioner pulley,, ?????I'm installing the alternator, and tensioner may need adjusting..
I hope the new belt doesn't rip up the bearings in the old tensioner...I have the UDP (6 years old now from SHOshop on the alternator replacement{{under warranty}} ) and that was tricky...O'Reilly's had to impact it off the old one and install it on their replacement alternator.....
Am refinishing the battery tray and discolored from rust area around the battery nest..think I might siphon the p/s fluid while I'm in that corner.
All for Bart '91....
Ma Ma M thumbs_u
I hope the new belt doesn't rip up the bearings in the old tensioner...I have the UDP (6 years old now from SHOshop on the alternator replacement{{under warranty}} ) and that was tricky...O'Reilly's had to impact it off the old one and install it on their replacement alternator.....
Am refinishing the battery tray and discolored from rust area around the battery nest..think I might siphon the p/s fluid while I'm in that corner.
All for Bart '91....
Ma Ma M thumbs_u
rangerj
Active Member
MaMa M,
Check out Eastwood at www.eastwoodcompany.com. They sell automotive restoration products. They sell a paint product called "rust encapsulator".
It comes in primer red, and black. The black is new, but the red has been around a long time. I have used it with great results.
You can get it in pints, quarts, and spray cans. Clean up your rusted area and then coat it with this stuff.
Eastwood also sells a battery tray coating that resists battery acid. It is a rubberized paint and it works.
Prime the tray with the rust encapsulator, then coat it with the battery tray stuff. The battery tray coating is black, so it will look OEM. I also masked off the area under the battery tray and sprayed this area with the battery tray coating.
You could also call Eastwood at 1-800-345-1178. If you are not on their mailing list, I think you will want to be. I have also used their disk, caliper, and brake drum coatings with very satisfactory results.
Thought you might like to know. rangerj
Check out Eastwood at www.eastwoodcompany.com. They sell automotive restoration products. They sell a paint product called "rust encapsulator".
It comes in primer red, and black. The black is new, but the red has been around a long time. I have used it with great results.
You can get it in pints, quarts, and spray cans. Clean up your rusted area and then coat it with this stuff.
Eastwood also sells a battery tray coating that resists battery acid. It is a rubberized paint and it works.
Prime the tray with the rust encapsulator, then coat it with the battery tray stuff. The battery tray coating is black, so it will look OEM. I also masked off the area under the battery tray and sprayed this area with the battery tray coating.
You could also call Eastwood at 1-800-345-1178. If you are not on their mailing list, I think you will want to be. I have also used their disk, caliper, and brake drum coatings with very satisfactory results.
Thought you might like to know. rangerj
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