Lingering A/C problem

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Tscholten

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I had problems with the A/C not working so, based on feedback that I got here, I changed the accumulator and associated line and the line containing the orifice tube. I had the Ford dealership evac and recharge the system two days ago. It held vacuum and the new freon charge fine. Tonight, I am driving and the A/C goes from cold to luke warm to almost warm. AFter the car sat for about 10 minutes I started the car, put on A/C and it worked. I am tired of this intermittent working/not working deal. Any other ideas on what might be wrong?

Also, does anyone know where in the door the sensors are to get the door ajar light to go off?
 

Ishodu

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You more than likely have to re shim the clutch on the compressor. If you look at www.shotimes.com theres a article there telling you how to do this. Its pretty easy.
To check the next time the air gets warm look at the compressor and look to see if the outside part is turning. If its not give it a Little bump with a stick. If it engages you need to re shim.

As for the door ajar switches, there inside the latches on the door.
 

rangerj

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The typical clutch gap, that is the gap between the clutch surfaces, is between .025 and .035. Look up the recommended gap for your model year. Measure the gap and if it is too wide it will cause the intermitent engagement problem. The clutch face, that is the part bolted to the comptessor shaft, has one or more washers inside the part that slides over the compressor shaft. These washers, aka shims, set the gap or distance between the clutch surfaces.

So, if your gap is .040, and .030 is desired, you know you need to remove a shim of .010 thickness. If you find one shim inside that is .030 thickness, then you need to remove it and replace it with a shim of .020 thickness (or two of .010).

You do not have to remove the compressor or discharge the system to do this. Use a strap wrench to hold the clutch face and remove the nut or bolt that retains it. Then pry the face away from the clutch pulley.

Do not use screwdrivers or other metal tools to do this. They can scratch the clutch surfaces. Use wood shims placed 180 degrees from each other and driven into the space between the surfaces. This will usually pry them apart and will not scratch the surfaces. ( I use a special tool made for "pulling" the face from the shaft, but most folks do not have a need to invest in one of these tools).

If the clutch gap is not the problem, then you need to get some pressure readings and do some more diagnostics to point toward the problem.

You can try jumping the low pressure switch connection and make sure that the clutch coil is being activated. It should turn into a strong electromagnet when it has battery voltage applied to it.
 

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