LED Running Lights
- Thread starter MrTwigbert
- Start date
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2011TAURUSSEL
2014 SHO LMS Stage 1 V10
My LED DRL's Puddle lamps and Courtesy light adapter arrived yesterday. Puddle lamps installed hopefully Thursday or Friday on the DRL's
Eric Hardy
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That's crazy hah. I would of never thought that
2011TAURUSSEL
2014 SHO LMS Stage 1 V10
Got the lights and wiring routed today. Ran out of daylight so will attempt wiring tomorrow.
NOTE: The instructions say use a cloth, cardboard to prevent the marring of the bumper cap paint when removing the bezel. I found a easier method. After the lower splash shield is removed and from the ground looking up. Grab a medium size fairly meaty flat head screwdriver. Push the tabs from the back side towards front. Put a cloth, towel or something along the ground forward of the projected impact area to prevent scratching the bezel. If you have a assistant or real long hands you could grab the bezel with one hand while pushing the last tab forward with the other.
For me I am getting to the hard part. I am more of the routing guy. I know electrical as in how to color codes and read wiring diagrams but the physical part of wiring is my weak point. I am the guy who uses almost twice as much wire as necessary since my crimping and soldering skills are weak. I peel back and double splice and twist. If in a difficult accessible area I might even triple splice. Part of it is age but the other part is just not much manual dexterity. I know lefty loosey righty tighty and all that but electrical wiring is adequate but I would never win bonus points for early completion.
NOTE: The instructions say use a cloth, cardboard to prevent the marring of the bumper cap paint when removing the bezel. I found a easier method. After the lower splash shield is removed and from the ground looking up. Grab a medium size fairly meaty flat head screwdriver. Push the tabs from the back side towards front. Put a cloth, towel or something along the ground forward of the projected impact area to prevent scratching the bezel. If you have a assistant or real long hands you could grab the bezel with one hand while pushing the last tab forward with the other.
For me I am getting to the hard part. I am more of the routing guy. I know electrical as in how to color codes and read wiring diagrams but the physical part of wiring is my weak point. I am the guy who uses almost twice as much wire as necessary since my crimping and soldering skills are weak. I peel back and double splice and twist. If in a difficult accessible area I might even triple splice. Part of it is age but the other part is just not much manual dexterity. I know lefty loosey righty tighty and all that but electrical wiring is adequate but I would never win bonus points for early completion.
For anyone who has installed the puddle lights, were they flush when you installed the new ones? My stock ones were difficult to remove and then when I reinstalled the new ones, they are not flush with the bottom of the mirror housing.
2011TAURUSSEL
2014 SHO LMS Stage 1 V10
They should be flush. Orientation is Looking Forward of vehicle from drivers seat.
If puddle lamp is lower in the front of the mirror then it probably didn't catch on the forward tab and didn't catch on the "Shelf" which means it probably isn't centered in the housing. It shouldn't be that way because the forward alignment tab should be automatic and not allow to insert without the tab set.
If lamp is lower in the AFT/Rear then probably the locking tab isn't fully extended and not enough tension. Be careful not to break the tabs.
Stand outside door looking inboard with a profile view of the lamp. It will be pretty obvious fairly quick if it is hanging from front or rear.
If puddle lamp is lower in the front of the mirror then it probably didn't catch on the forward tab and didn't catch on the "Shelf" which means it probably isn't centered in the housing. It shouldn't be that way because the forward alignment tab should be automatic and not allow to insert without the tab set.
If lamp is lower in the AFT/Rear then probably the locking tab isn't fully extended and not enough tension. Be careful not to break the tabs.
Stand outside door looking inboard with a profile view of the lamp. It will be pretty obvious fairly quick if it is hanging from front or rear.
2011TAURUSSEL
2014 SHO LMS Stage 1 V10
Done with DRL. Works like a champ. I eventually even figured out the T tap. I used the Courtesy light adapter so for the turn signal I had to splice THREE (3) wires into one The original power wire, DRL Ignition wire and Courtesy light wire. Sadly the T Tap didn't work for that one and I had to use a regular bullet splice connector. The T tap worked on the passengers side amazingly.
Install tips. Remove the lower forward splash shield I know its a few bolts but worth it instead of trying to peel back and possibly break.
Drivers Side: I recommend removing at least the drivers side tire. It will give you more room to work with the fender splash shield. I wound up removing the inner fender shield for a possible addition of a side turn signal but will have to wait for another time.
Remove the Air Filter Box it is a easy removal and will provide much more space. Two bolts two clamps and one connector. Set lower housing aside....also a good time to clean the inside of the box. I loosened the clamp from the Upper housing to the Throttle body and set both aside...Don't forget to re connect MAF sensor before starting engine for Ops check otherwise you will probably get the M.I,L. (Check Engine Light)
I did all the hook up and did the battery connections LAST.
I ran the passenger side turn signal wire behind and under the strut tower cross brace. Ziptied and wire loomed. The passengers side strut tower has one connector along the forward edge, I ran the wire and wire loom under that than almost a straight shot to the turn signal wire.
NOTE: Follow the wiring diagram carefully. Perfect Example. Drivers side the Turn signal supply wire Blue Green I believe is the middle wire.
Passengers side Turn Signal OEM connector Yellow/Purple I believe is one of the outer wires of the three. I guess using the same outer middle inner wire to perform same function on each side would be too easy. Rant complete and also wipe the wires with cleaner makes them easier to see. Colors are close and just close enough to be confusing. For Reference take the DRL Kit....Fairly simple Red, White, Orange, Blue black.
There is a step to add the fuse box adapter for the kit. The fuse adapter is from the controller. If Using the Courtesy Light Adapter then use the Courtesy light fuse adapter. Same Fuse location just different function . When finished the Fuse adapter from the controller will be extra either cut off or tape out of the way for future use.
Install tips. Remove the lower forward splash shield I know its a few bolts but worth it instead of trying to peel back and possibly break.
Drivers Side: I recommend removing at least the drivers side tire. It will give you more room to work with the fender splash shield. I wound up removing the inner fender shield for a possible addition of a side turn signal but will have to wait for another time.
Remove the Air Filter Box it is a easy removal and will provide much more space. Two bolts two clamps and one connector. Set lower housing aside....also a good time to clean the inside of the box. I loosened the clamp from the Upper housing to the Throttle body and set both aside...Don't forget to re connect MAF sensor before starting engine for Ops check otherwise you will probably get the M.I,L. (Check Engine Light)
I did all the hook up and did the battery connections LAST.
I ran the passenger side turn signal wire behind and under the strut tower cross brace. Ziptied and wire loomed. The passengers side strut tower has one connector along the forward edge, I ran the wire and wire loom under that than almost a straight shot to the turn signal wire.
NOTE: Follow the wiring diagram carefully. Perfect Example. Drivers side the Turn signal supply wire Blue Green I believe is the middle wire.
Passengers side Turn Signal OEM connector Yellow/Purple I believe is one of the outer wires of the three. I guess using the same outer middle inner wire to perform same function on each side would be too easy. Rant complete and also wipe the wires with cleaner makes them easier to see. Colors are close and just close enough to be confusing. For Reference take the DRL Kit....Fairly simple Red, White, Orange, Blue black.
There is a step to add the fuse box adapter for the kit. The fuse adapter is from the controller. If Using the Courtesy Light Adapter then use the Courtesy light fuse adapter. Same Fuse location just different function . When finished the Fuse adapter from the controller will be extra either cut off or tape out of the way for future use.
2011TAURUSSEL
2014 SHO LMS Stage 1 V10
Follow up: The Negative cable from the controller to the battery. Instructions say mount to negative battery cable and mount the controller on top of the fuse box cover. I would prefer in the slot between the drivers side strut tower and the fuse box but cable is too short. My recommendation is one of two.
Option 1: Splice in a extension of the existing cable to reach the battery.
Option 2: There is a fender bolt just to the right of the fuse box. (Looking inboard) Just behind a Ford logo and stamping number. It is bare metal underneath so sounds to me like a good ground. The ground cable connection is a split type connector (open on one end) so just loosen the bolt, slide the cable under the bare metal and tighten. Less tension on the wire and good easy utilization of the space.
Option 1: Splice in a extension of the existing cable to reach the battery.
Option 2: There is a fender bolt just to the right of the fuse box. (Looking inboard) Just behind a Ford logo and stamping number. It is bare metal underneath so sounds to me like a good ground. The ground cable connection is a split type connector (open on one end) so just loosen the bolt, slide the cable under the bare metal and tighten. Less tension on the wire and good easy utilization of the space.
Oh.My.Adore.Delano
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This is a definite buy. Glad I came across this thread. Glad all of you put this input in making this an easy buy. Much appreciated!
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