Leaking Oil

[Marccus]

I am leaking oil from the shaft/seal on the pulley that is right above the engine motor mount on the passenger side.

I thought the valve covers were causing the leak, but after changing plugs, wires, and valve cover gaskets, the valve covers are dry as a bone.


Laying on the ground on my back with my feet sticking out the front of the car, the oil the motor mount is wet and the oil collects and drips from the subframe connector subassembly (Did I say that right).

What is involved in fixing this problem?
Is it "easy" to replace the seal on this shaft?
What does the shaft go to?


I had a new power steering pump put in not too long ago and they checked it twice for leaks. I originally thought this leak was from the PS pump. But the mechanic said it was a cam shaft seal and the fluid is definitely motor oil.

Any suggestions/advice/recommendations welcome.

 

[sdpatt]

One or more of the three cam shaft seals are probably the source of you oil leak.

 

[Marccus]

sdpatt:
One or more of the three cam shaft seals are probably the source of you oil leak.

OK, here we go again!

Can you provide some guidance on the steps to go through to get to the seals.

I can get through intake removal valve covers. Do I then just remove timing belt cover and get to the seals?

I best do all of them and buy the proper cam shaft seal tool installer. I have the handle anyways.

Thanks chief.

If it isn't too difficult replacing these, maybe I can do the valve lash.

The problem is I don't have a garage or driveway, so I need to do as much in a full day so when nightime arrives, I can clean up and button her up or leave the engine/car in a "safe" overnight mode (hood down, exposed items covered,...).

I just find I'm a slow worker. I'm always cleaning parts with solvent and wire brushes, using assembly ****, rethreading and chasing threads, replacing worn bolts or nuts, ensuring everything fits correctly, not forcing anything, torquing down to specs ....

I guess I'm my own worst enemy.

 

[xaphan1039]

copy and paste this address.

http://www.shotimes.com/php-bin/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&mode=thread&order=0&thold=0&sid=64

if this isnt your year click on the top maintanence then scroll down to engine and there should be another link....

i was down to my front crank seal a week-end or so ago to change my water pump and timing belt and all the little things that went along with it. i did'nt need to replace the seal, but i was 1 step away. had i remove the gear that drives the timing belt i would've been looking at the seal. the job itself isn't too bad. removing the inner fender is easy, removing the hood is much easier with 2 people and nearly impossible to do by yourself.....although i managed. the valve covers and intake manifold stay on for this. the portion of the intake that will need to come off is the end near the passenger side that is held on with rubber and some hose clamps. the belts and idler pulleys need to come off along with the shock absorber like thing that is mounted to the block and to the fender. top piece of the timing belt cover will come off, then the bottom portion of the cover, but not before the harmonic balancer will need to come off which requires a puller and a 19mm socket with either a hefty impact wrench or a big rachet to lock against the sub frame when taking out the big bolt in the center. once that is off and the bottom part of the belt cover is off the middle piece will come off ( not sure of the water pump has to come out or not....i don't think it does. ) at this point you should be down to the gear on the shaft. behind that is the seal. i did'nt have to go that far... check out the address above for shotimes.com may the force be with you. pray for me while i'm putting my rear main seal in on the other end near the clutch. i got a labor quote for $420. alittle steep for me. my seal is $50 and a clutch from the local parts store is $200, plus cost of refacing the flywheel....anyone want to buy an 89 in NY??

 

[Marccus]

Thanks for the link.

If I know of anyone who wants an '89 in NY, I'll send them your way.

My clutch job cost me over $900 in labor.

I wish I could have done it myself, but I only have one car, and I don't have the facilities, garage, etc., to do it alone.

I go to church regularly and I'll ask the Big Guy to give you a hand. thumbs_u

 

[rangerj]

Marccus,

Before you embark on this quest, may I suggest that you clean up the oil and dirt in the area you think is the source of the leak.

Get it fairly clean. Then in a couple of day check for a fresh oil trail. Then you will have pinpointed the leak, and will not be guessing.

If you do have to delve into the camshaft seals you may as well replace any seal you have access to when things are apart. Seals are fairly inexpensive.

There are additives that dye your oil, trans fluid, etc. This is another way of pinpointing a leak. Most auto parts stores sell these.

Hope this helps, rangerj

 

[Marccus]

rangerj:
Marccus,

Before you embark on this quest, may I suggest that you clean up the oil and dirt in the area you think is the source of the leak.

Get it fairly clean. Then in a couple of day check for a fresh oil trail. Then you will have pinpointed the leak, and will not be guessing.

If you do have to delve into the camshaft seals you may as well replace any seal you have access to when things are apart. Seals are fairly inexpensive.

There are additives that dye your oil, trans fluid, etc. This is another way of pinpointing a leak. Most auto parts stores sell these.

Hope this helps, rangerj

Thanks. I've tried really cleaning up the areas, but when I get a chance to check (as soon as possible after cleaning), I still can't locate the specific areas.

I'll perhaps try the dyes, but you need a UV light also.

I'm pretty positive the camshaft seals are leaking.

I've checked the shop manual, but do I have to remove the cam shaft pulleys to replace the seals.

If you can outline )or know of a someone who already has) the basic steps to replace the camshaft seals, I would appreciate it. thumbs_u

 

[Sho-N-Go]

The cam seal behind the CID is probably the on leaking on the PS pump. as the other cannot leak there. Just unbolt the sensor it is a 5.5 mm socket(I think). The vane behind there is held on with two phillips screws. taake that off and then pull the old seal out with a screwdriver or seal puller. DO NOT SRAPE THE SIDE OF THE SEAL BORE. get the seal from a ford dealer and just push it in with your fingers. then clean everyhting off again. The two cam seals behind the timing belt pully are best to do when the belt is off. good luck

 

[projectSHO89]

Toolboy is probably right on. Pull the cam sensor of and look for oil inside. If it is present, that seal is leaking. A quick check is to run your fingers under the cam sensor and mounting housing. If oil is present, it's the seal.

If the seals on the intake camshafts leak, the oil will run down the front of the engine block and will drip from below the crankshaft, just like a leaking crank seal or front oilpan gasket will.

Steve

 

[Marccus]

OK. But what do I have to do/remove to get to the CID. Can I see it and remove it without removing anything else?

 

[Marccus]

projectSHO89:
Toolboy is probably right on. Pull the cam sensor of and look for oil inside. If it is present, that seal is leaking. A quick check is to run your fingers under the cam sensor and mounting housing. If oil is present, it's the seal.

If the seals on the intake camshafts leak, the oil will run down the front of the engine block and will drip from below the crankshaft, just like a leaking crank seal or front oilpan gasket will.

Steve

Yes, that is EXACTLY how it is leaking and how it looks. dripping from crank like a leaking crank seal.

Also it collects and runs along the bottom subframe and insulator and drips to the ground.

 

[sdpatt]

Careful there guys. The topic's author was asking about CAMshaft seals and you are giving him instructions for replacement of the CRANKshaft seal. If the crankshaft (front main) seal is leaking, the oil will be dripping from the drain port at the bottom of the lower timing belt cover. You don't have to remove the CPS to see that.

The camshaft seals usually drip down the front of the engine and down the lower radiator hose or from below the CID (cam) sensor. Sometimes the oil also gets inside the timing belt cover and exits at the same place as the crankshaft seal leak.

To access the three camshaft seals you must remove the accessory belts and pullies, the crankshaft damper, the timing belt covers, the timing belt, the camshaft pullies and the rear metal timing belt cover. In other words, a timing belt job plus the cam pullies and rear timing belt cover.

I will be doing this service on my car around Christmas for the 5th 60K maintenance. I can give a better description along with pictures after that time of what it takes to replace the camshaft seals. Stay tuned....

 

[projectSHO89]

Scott,

I just did these seals back in May.

The seal behind the CID sensor can be replaced by only removing the CID sensor, housing, and vane (be sure to mark the orientation of the vane before removing it).

The two intake cam seals will require the removal ot everything up to and including the inner timing cover.

Good luck with the new seals.

Steve

 

[Marccus]

Thanks to all.

I followed your instructions and found that the CID is soaked with oil when I feel the underneath of it with my fingers. The oil drips down to the timing belt, accessory pullies, etc. and gets thrown all over the timing belt covers and drips down to the bottom subrame and insulator where it pools and drips to the ground.

I've heard that the oil can ruin the insulator if it is soaked in oil for prolonged periods. But the insulator looks good. It is only 14 months old. Same with the motor mount. It also gets soaked in oil and which supposedly is good for the rubber portions.

I'll change the seal on the camshaft with the CID. I'll replace the CID since I purchased one awhile ago with the intent of installing it when I got to the cam seals.

Here's to a dry, leak free engine (hopefully)!